A hitting hard damn noise coming out right from the intake area...Help needed please.
03-29-2015, 09:19 AM
#43
The ORIGINAL and bestest
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Toronto Ontario
Posts: 10,009
Received 234 Likes
on
143 Posts
Toronto Events Coordinator
It is very possible; if he tightened the rocker too much it could wipe a cam lobe. Seems highly coincidental that not long after the lash was adjusted you have a wiped cam lobe.
03-29-2015, 11:24 AM
#46
Race Director
High spring pressure, high lift solid roller cams run at high RPM have a finite life expectancy. Idling and putting around town can kill a solid roller. There are things that can be done to extend their life. Billet cam, top shelf lifters like Red Zone Isky EZ roll lifters. Grooving the lifter bores, Going with a larger lifter bore like the .904 http://www.iskycams.com/904.php
Attention to precise spring setup, exact pressures required and minimizing distance from max lift to coil bind to .040 to .060. A rev limiter to reduce the chance of overreving. A setup like yours should have the intake removed once a year and each lifter, lifter wheel and cam lobe carefully inspected for wear and lash readjusted. If you want maintenance free go hydraulic roller. These can be setup to run 7000 RPM nowadays. If you want solid roller be prepared to personally do the required maintainance and don't trust it to some guy that never works on these high performance type builds. If you have a tick and it just don't sound right it is a red flag. If you go to adjust your lifters and there is any adjustment needed it is a red flag. FIND OUT WHY! When you realized you had a worn rocker this was a red flag. Intake should have been removed right then and cam/lifters inspected. Would likely have caught it early. Depending on how muck trash was in the oil, your oiling system and if your oil filter bypass is blocked or not you may need new main, rod bearings, cam bearings rings/ a complete rebuild. At a minimum I would do springs, rockers, pushrods lifters, cam and don't go cheap. Design the valvetrain precisely and use top shelf parts.
Fast, Cheap or Durable, Pick 2.
Attention to precise spring setup, exact pressures required and minimizing distance from max lift to coil bind to .040 to .060. A rev limiter to reduce the chance of overreving. A setup like yours should have the intake removed once a year and each lifter, lifter wheel and cam lobe carefully inspected for wear and lash readjusted. If you want maintenance free go hydraulic roller. These can be setup to run 7000 RPM nowadays. If you want solid roller be prepared to personally do the required maintainance and don't trust it to some guy that never works on these high performance type builds. If you have a tick and it just don't sound right it is a red flag. If you go to adjust your lifters and there is any adjustment needed it is a red flag. FIND OUT WHY! When you realized you had a worn rocker this was a red flag. Intake should have been removed right then and cam/lifters inspected. Would likely have caught it early. Depending on how muck trash was in the oil, your oiling system and if your oil filter bypass is blocked or not you may need new main, rod bearings, cam bearings rings/ a complete rebuild. At a minimum I would do springs, rockers, pushrods lifters, cam and don't go cheap. Design the valvetrain precisely and use top shelf parts.
Fast, Cheap or Durable, Pick 2.
03-30-2015, 10:40 AM
#47
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2004
Location: Sorrento Italy
Posts: 20,189
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
18 Posts
High spring pressure, high lift solid roller cams run at high RPM have a finite life expectancy. Idling and putting around town can kill a solid roller. There are things that can be done to extend their life. Billet cam, top shelf lifters like Red Zone Isky EZ roll lifters. Grooving the lifter bores, Going with a larger lifter bore like the .904 http://www.iskycams.com/904.php
Attention to precise spring setup, exact pressures required and minimizing distance from max lift to coil bind to .040 to .060. A rev limiter to reduce the chance of overreving. A setup like yours should have the intake removed once a year and each lifter, lifter wheel and cam lobe carefully inspected for wear and lash readjusted. If you want maintenance free go hydraulic roller. These can be setup to run 7000 RPM nowadays. If you want solid roller be prepared to personally do the required maintainance and don't trust it to some guy that never works on these high performance type builds. If you have a tick and it just don't sound right it is a red flag. If you go to adjust your lifters and there is any adjustment needed it is a red flag. FIND OUT WHY! When you realized you had a worn rocker this was a red flag. Intake should have been removed right then and cam/lifters inspected. Would likely have caught it early. Depending on how muck trash was in the oil, your oiling system and if your oil filter bypass is blocked or not you may need new main, rod bearings, cam bearings rings/ a complete rebuild. At a minimum I would do springs, rockers, pushrods lifters, cam and don't go cheap. Design the valvetrain precisely and use top shelf parts.
Fast, Cheap or Durable, Pick 2.
Attention to precise spring setup, exact pressures required and minimizing distance from max lift to coil bind to .040 to .060. A rev limiter to reduce the chance of overreving. A setup like yours should have the intake removed once a year and each lifter, lifter wheel and cam lobe carefully inspected for wear and lash readjusted. If you want maintenance free go hydraulic roller. These can be setup to run 7000 RPM nowadays. If you want solid roller be prepared to personally do the required maintainance and don't trust it to some guy that never works on these high performance type builds. If you have a tick and it just don't sound right it is a red flag. If you go to adjust your lifters and there is any adjustment needed it is a red flag. FIND OUT WHY! When you realized you had a worn rocker this was a red flag. Intake should have been removed right then and cam/lifters inspected. Would likely have caught it early. Depending on how muck trash was in the oil, your oiling system and if your oil filter bypass is blocked or not you may need new main, rod bearings, cam bearings rings/ a complete rebuild. At a minimum I would do springs, rockers, pushrods lifters, cam and don't go cheap. Design the valvetrain precisely and use top shelf parts.
Fast, Cheap or Durable, Pick 2.
03-30-2015, 06:50 PM
#49
Race Director
