zakbradshaw

I have bought an Edelbrock Performer EPS non-EGR intake and will be buying a carb and distributor to go to a traditional non-computer controlled setup. I know I need the 1980 and earlier style distributor, but the rest I'm not sure of.

While I'm already replacing the distributor, should I go with something performance or just a stock style?

What characteristics do I need to look for when choosing a carb? Vacuum/mechanical? Electric choke? Etc...

I know not everyone agrees with going away from the computer setup, but please keep comments directed to help me move forward with this swap.

Thank you,
Zak.

lars

For carb, run the carb you're comfortable with setting up and tuning. The Q-Jet and the Holley-type carbs, within the same cfm range (750), will perform the same, with the Q-Jet having a slight advantage in torque at low rpm. With the Q-Jet, you can make the car appear stock. The Holley and Holley-type carbs have more "wow" factor if properly installed. You can run any Chevy passenger car Q-Jet from 1976 - 1979, install an electric choke on it, and make it look "correct" without any significant mods to linkages, fuel lines, and air cleaner. With the Holley carbs, you can buy a new carb, and parts will be available. On the Q-Jets, you'll have to find a good used core carb and rebuild it. So run what suits your purpose. The Edelbrock carbs are re-pops of the old Carter AFB, and several of us have shown on the dyno that these carbs will not perform with the Q-Jet and Holley carbs. But they run reasonably well "out-of-the-box" if your only goal is to get the engine running.

On the distributor, you have nothing to gain by going with a "performance" distributor over a stock setup. The power and performance is all in the setup and curve, so run a distributor that is easily tunable for curve length and curve quickness. Set it up per my timing papers. Be sure to run one with vacuum advance.

Good luck with the tuning and setup. Feel free to contact me if you need specific info.

Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com

74modified

I like late model computer control, but would rather have old school non computer than the 80's stuff. Just guessing on a number of things, but sounds like a "stock" style HEI and vacuum secondary would work for you. The HEI is more than adequate for normal street RPM and cylinder pressures. If everything else is stock, you will be fine. I do like double pumper carbs, because I always go with a manual trans, but you probably have an auto.

zakbradshaw

Thanks guys. So with the carb I need vacuum secondaries and electric choke...anything else I need to make sure it has to bolt up and work with all my current stock components?

I like the Barry Grant (Holley essentially) and have been thinking about going with the Speed Demon. Would this be a good selection?

Thank you for your help.

lars

I like the BG Speed Demon carbs, and I use a lot of them. It's not a direct replacement for your Q-Jet, so there will be some fabrication involved with linkages and fuel lines. I prefer them without the choke. The BG carbs need a little setup and tuning, but you can drop me an e-mail for my BG Setup and Installation paper, which has step-by-step photos for installing the BG on your engine, along with the setup required.

Lars

zakbradshaw

Thank you Lars. This may be a stupid question, but they list a vacuum secondary and an annular vacuum secondary. What is the difference and which would be better to go with? And go without electric choke?

lars

Some of these decisions simply become personal preference. I have found that the BG carbs, when correctly set up, don't need a choke. In fact, the choke seems to run the carb over-rich when cold. Without a choke, the engine is a little "balky" for the first 2 minutes of operation, which doesn't bother me. If you want the engine to start and run cold like a fuel injected engine, you might want to retain the choke and fiddle with it until you get the setup just right.

The annular boosters provide stronger metering signal at low rpm, and the fuel is discharged evenly around the inner booster ring. I've run both annular carbs and downleg carbs, and I've never been able to detect a difference between the two.

Lars

zakbradshaw

Thank you, this is exactly what I needed to know. I will be ordering a distributor and carb soon.

commander_47

Lars is recommending a 750 cfm, but in fact your car will probably not go that high.

Don't get me wrong here, 750 Holley is great, but could be overkill.

The vast majority of cars don't need more than 650 or so, and thats if flat out racing.

Check out the CFM calculator at Summit to get a better idea. Most cars will never get above 6000 rpm.
http://www.summitracing.com/expertad...cfm-calculator


For a stock or mildly modified car, a standard HEI distro will work fine. Summit has a real good one at a fair price:

I have used three of these with no issues whatsover:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850001r/overview/

zakbradshaw

I was planning on going 750 anyway. My 78 Camaro had a 350 with a 750 Edelbrock and it ran great with the 750.

zakbradshaw

Commander, that distributor should bolt straight up and work with all my existing components right?

commander_47

Yes, it will drop right in.

Plug in your tach filter.

Dont forget to put #1 at tdc.

zakbradshaw

Great, thank you.