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Electrical problem 69

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Old 04-19-2015, 12:54 PM
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Calo69
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16, '18
Default Electrical problem 69

Hello,
Driving car died, found pos. lead on alt. came loose, connected , nothing.
Have 12 v at battery
12 v at horn relay
12 v at starter
12 v at alternator
Have no power at bat. Term. In fuse panel
Press horn relay just clicks
Checked fusible links at starter,horn relay, look ok
Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Old 04-19-2015, 03:41 PM
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wombvette
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Originally Posted by Calo69
Hello,
Driving car died, found pos. lead on alt. came loose, connected , nothing.
Have 12 v at battery
12 v at horn relay
12 v at starter
12 v at alternator
Have no power at bat. Term. In fuse panel
Press horn relay just clicks
Checked fusible links at starter,horn relay, look ok
Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Jump it or charge the battery. Its down.
Old 04-19-2015, 05:38 PM
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Calo69
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Originally Posted by wombvette
Jump it or charge the battery. Its down.
Thanks would not take jump, had 12V at fuse bat term, battery is good. Able to jump out starter sol. To get running, alternator charging 14V. Found questionable splice at neutral switch, not crazy about terminal connection on switch. Respliced car started, on off a few times then again nothing, going to recheck all of neutral connections tommorow.
If anyone can think of anything else I'm glad to hear them
Thanks
Old 04-19-2015, 10:35 PM
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doorgunner
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Originally Posted by Calo69
Hello,
Driving car died, found pos. lead on alt. came loose, connected , nothing.
Have 12 v at battery
12 v at horn relay
12 v at starter
12 v at alternator
Have no power at bat. Term. In fuse panel
Press horn relay just clicks
Checked fusible links at starter,horn relay, look ok
Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Bear with my rookie questions:

The main wire that goes to the fuse block on the FIREWALL.....does it show at least 12 volts ENTERING THE BLOCK (you may have to probe the insulation on the wire near the block to get a reading on the voltmeter/be sure to put a dab of sealer over the puncture in the insulation when you remove the voltmeter probe to prevent corrosion in the wire).

If you have 12 volts at the spot where you probed the supply wire---there is a chance that there is corrosion BETWEEN the two HALVES of the fuse block---this prevents voltage from getting to some fuses and not getting full voltage. My '68 fuse block corroded internally---I was getting NO voltage at some fuse terminals and only 5 or 6 volts at other fuse terminals. The car would start one day and NOT start the next day.

If you have NO VOLTAGE at the probed spot, there is a broken/or corroded supply wire/failing fusible link/something wrong with the supply wire.
Old 04-20-2015, 11:19 AM
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Calo69
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Thanks Gunner,
I had rechecked bat. Term. At fuse panel and got 12 V (had a lousy ground on meter 1st time)
Think it's wiring connection at safety switch, I might have disturbed it between removing z bar and header installation. Had a previous splice there also.
Thanks

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