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63MAKO Budget 355 Dyno

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Old 05-27-2015, 01:03 AM
  #141  
Shark Racer
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Do you have a close-up photo of the intake setup in the dyno cell?
Old 05-27-2015, 01:05 AM
  #142  
pauldana
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Compression .... We gained like 30 ft tq or more going from m 10.2 ish to 10.8ish??? Anyway somewhere around a .6ish point increase and it was a big gain in tq ... Mil the heads... You'll get there
Old 05-27-2015, 09:06 AM
  #143  
7t9l82
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Is it possible the heads don't flow as well as is thought?
Old 05-27-2015, 09:53 AM
  #144  
toobroketoretire
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Originally Posted by c3_dk
Much nicer text now Scott, and it says the same

The belt looks a bit loose.................
Old 05-27-2015, 10:50 AM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by 7t9l82
Is it possible the heads don't flow as well as is thought?
Thats what I was wondering and posted it in the other mako355 thread.
Old 05-27-2015, 12:18 PM
  #146  
Les
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Originally Posted by David_at_Triumph
Dear 63Mako,

I am pretty sure I know what is happening to your motor, the same thing happened to me with a nearly identical build. 355 ci, 10:1 compression, 0.015” head gasket, LT-4 hot cam, 1.6 rockers, except I was using a set of ZZ4 heads, cranking pressure was 185-195 psi in all cylinders. Also my engine was port fuel injected single plane holley with a megasquirt ECU controlling both injection and timing using a ZZ4 distributor modified for electronic timing control with a seven pin ignition module.

This “400 HP” engine barely ran better 0-60 and 0-100 mph times than the original 1975 L-48 motor, I was so disgusted. After blaming the injectors, timing, intake manifold, exhaust setup, megasquirt, etc… to no real improvements, I was ready to do the beehive spring change you did. I never got the chance, after running several autocrosses and two track days, the engine had a nervous come apart in the valve train on the track. As it turns out, three of the four lifter on cylinders numbers seven and eight were completely collapsed and stuck down, leaving the rockers very loose - the lifters have about 0.187” of hydraulic travel, so I lost over half the lift of the cam. Ultimately, this also damaged the lower end, rod knock, because with port injection, the cylinder(s) were filling with fuel and partially hydro-locking. Someone following me on the last lap reported clear liquid coming from my left exhaust and the engine was of course rattling, shaking, and sputtering as I came into the pits. (Note of caution to those considering a port injection retrofit, the lower end damage would not have happened with a carb or a throttle body.) That was the last time my beautifully prepared 2,900 lb track shark has left the garage, that was three years ago (so sad).

My engine had the exact same symptoms as your dyno pull is showing - the engine ran really smoothly across the band, sounded like a real killer and kept an optimum 12-13 AFR ratio via the wideband O2 sensor. But, about 4,000 rpm and above, my engine would seem to flatten off just at the point where I thought it should have just been coming on. I could see it in the megasquirt logs, the rpm versus time would start roll off above 4,000 rpm. I could also see it on my trakmate g-level traces on long straights, the acceleration would begin to fall off at the top of every gear.

So, I think the root cause of your problem is that the lifters are collapsing. Here is where the plot thickens a little. You are using a one-piece seal motor intended for the spider lifters and lifters from a truck. My engine was a 1973 L-82 block which I modified to accept spider lifters. Those who know engines are probably thinking, that can’t be done, the spider roller lifters are too tall for the Gen I block. And this is true, the V-8 spider lifters are too tall for a Gen 1 block, but the spider lifters out of a four cylinder GM are exactly the right height. If you know anything about this cheap and cheesy conversion method, it comes back to a guy on ebay that sells you the “conversion” plans for like 20 bucks. Well, I did the conversion, and being a hydraulics engineer, I did not really see any reason why it wouldn’t work. And, like you, I was on a $2,000 budget build for a retro hydraulic roller.

After purchasing retrofit tie bar hydraulic roller lifters, Howards, I have a better idea as to why the GM lifters are collapsing. The GM lifters do not have a return spring inside the lifters like the retrofit units have. So when the GM lifter starts losing oil, they count on oil pressure to extend them back and refill them. For some reason, this is not enough. I believe it does have something to do with the LT-4 hot cam, the spring pressures, and the 1.6 rocker ratio conspiring to put just a little too much force on the lifter such that it doesn’t quite have enough time or pressure to completely refill. This explains why it happens at higher rpm. It may have something to do with the valve lift ramp rate of the LT-4 hot cam causing a little bounce at higher rpms when the valve closes and this may explain the fluid loss and subsequent collapse. Maybe the check valve passage of these lifters is a too small and they can’t refill quickly enough. Anyway, I am pretty sure it is related to one or more of these issues.
As far as the fix goes, that’s a set of $400+ retrofit tie bar lifters and of course the correct length pushrods, and it’s somewhere between the GM roller 7.291” pushrods and the 7.8” flat tappet pushrods, but you already know that I think.

Let me know if you have any questions, best of luck from a fellow C3 corvette nut, Dave
Now that you've hit the same wall, I'd take a hard look at this.
Old 05-27-2015, 02:44 PM
  #147  
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My hat is off to you for being so honest and transparent, wish more were like you. It's hard to do when things don't work out and most would just let the thread die.

There has to be some HP hiding from you and hope you find it.
Old 05-27-2015, 04:06 PM
  #148  
jim2527
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Bad dyno? When's the last time it was calibrated? Do they ever get calibrated?
Old 05-27-2015, 05:53 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by bluedawg
Thats what I was wondering and posted it in the other mako355 thread.
Unless the heads are complete garbage (IE, worse than a stock 70's GM truck head), I can't see this motor topping out at 270hp. Roller cam, good headers, nigh 10:1 compression I can't see this making under 300hp on an engine dyno.

Originally Posted by Les
Now that you've hit the same wall, I'd take a hard look at this.
Makes a lot of sense - way more than anything I've posted. I don't know which lifters came with the cam.... it looks like stock LT1/LT4 lifters are fine, but since the parts were bought used - they may well have been truck lifters.

IDK, but I'm pulling for Mako!
Old 05-27-2015, 06:02 PM
  #150  
Les
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Originally Posted by Shark Racer
Unless the heads are complete garbage (IE, worse than a stock 70's GM truck head), I can't see this motor topping out at 270hp. Roller cam, good headers, nigh 10:1 compression I can't see this making under 300hp on an engine dyno.



Makes a lot of sense - way more than anything I've posted. I don't know which lifters came with the cam.... it looks like stock LT1/LT4 lifters are fine, but since the parts were bought used - they may well have been truck lifters.

IDK, but I'm pulling for Mako!
Yea, I've been pulling for him since the beginning of this saga. He's missing gobs of power somewhere in that combo and I hope he finds all of it. The way it drops off so early one would think he's not getting nearly all of what that cam has to offer. Unless he dropped a shop rag into the intake manifold.
Old 05-27-2015, 06:39 PM
  #151  
ajrothm
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WOW....I'm stumped too... The Brake specific fuel consumption is way high and air flow comsumption is way low.... Something is definitely not right...
Old 05-27-2015, 07:13 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by Calo69
Sucks that your dyno costs are defeating the whole premise of build. Good luck
I would rather find out now than once it was in the car.Something seems painfully amiss.Good luck finding it.Take a break and come back with some fresh eyes.
Old 05-27-2015, 09:53 PM
  #153  
63mako
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Found some power, About 20 hp & torque across the board. I was not there today. Dyno operater tweaked the carb and dist. Dyno throttle was binding. Dyno calibration was checked and good. Talked to the guy that checked the cam, happened when I was chasing springs. He said he checked the Intake centerline and made sure it was degreed in but didn't check the specs. This is the only thing I did not check myself. The guy that asked if I was sure it was an LT4 hot cam, think he hit it. Cam was installed in the short block and I believed the guy I bought it from and thought it was checked at the dyno shop. Think it has to be a smaller cam looking at the curve. The dyno operator and shop owner both thought that is the issue looking at the charts. Todays pull started @ 3000 and peak torque was already passed. Only thing that makes sense. Man Vac is on the last sheet. Looks good. Cam is the only thing I can think of, runs too good all the way through for lifter collapse and no noise at higher RPM. Think todays run was not all the way warmed up, oil pressure was higher than yesterday and it was 80 degrees in the dyno room. 296 HP, 380 ft lbs and the peaks where they are sounds like a small cam. I am buying a degree wheel and checking it myself. It is what it is. If the cam specs don't check out I will replace it.






Last edited by 63mako; 05-27-2015 at 09:58 PM.
Old 05-27-2015, 10:12 PM
  #154  
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This is a great thread. There is no quit in Mako.
Old 05-27-2015, 10:15 PM
  #155  
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I have a similar build with the same heads, they were cleaned up and flowed 274 at .600. I have a 385 with a 224/228 Mike Jones hyd roller cam, behive springs, eddy rpm and quadrajet. I have not had it on a dyno but it pulls easily to 6400. You may be on to something with the cam, I can attest that the heads will flow.

Last edited by rham; 05-27-2015 at 10:45 PM. Reason: Punctuation
Old 05-27-2015, 10:19 PM
  #156  
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Was thinking even a stock LT4 cam (not the LT4 hotcam)would peak higher than that wonder what you really got? How does the idle sound?
Old 05-27-2015, 10:43 PM
  #157  
63mako
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Was thinking even a stock LT4 cam (not the LT4 hotcam)would peak higher than that wonder what you really got? How does the idle sound?
Will idle down to 600. Has a slight rumble but the dyno headers and dyno exhaust rumble no matter what. Degree wheel and pulling the valve covers and checking duration and lift when I get a chance. This engine runs fantastic all the way through. Sounds real strong and solid. Heads are fine.

Stock LT4 cam is 203/210 duration @ .050. Head flow is really high though so it is different.

Example LS7 has a 211/230 duration cam, 14 degrees NEGATIVE overlap 120 LSA, pulls to 7000 RPM redline and puts out 505 HP because that is all you need to fill the cylinder with the heads.

Last edited by 63mako; 05-27-2015 at 10:56 PM.

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Old 05-27-2015, 11:42 PM
  #158  
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The torque curve on a a stock LT1 will start to drop around 4k a little and really drops over 4.5k. The HP peaks around 5k. Your engine even drops off earlier than that, but it's possible you could have a stock LT1 cam or a L98 cam with even less lift than a LT1 cam.

If you have the ability with a dial indicator, you just check the cam lift.
Old 05-27-2015, 11:49 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by Jeff_Keryk
This is a great thread. There is no quit in Mako.
I don't quit. Been here before. I will figure it out.
Old 05-28-2015, 05:46 AM
  #160  
alnukem
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That's the thing with buying used & together, you never really know. And if the OP is believing what he is telling you, you have no reason to doubt it.


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