no power
#1
no power
i am working on a 73 corvette i have bypassed the neutral safety switch and still nothing happens when you try to start the car.... i put a remote starter switch on starter and it will turn the motor over . anyone have any suggestions please help
#3
Advanced
Sounds like a bad solenoid. By hooking up the remote switch you bypass the solenoid. Check to see if you have 12 volts to the starter on all terminals with the key in the start position. You will need a helper. You will have power to the large terminal at all times. If you have power to all terminals you have bad solenoid. If there is no power to the small terminals then start chasing the wire back until you find where the problem is. If I remember correctly the start circuit is the purple wire and the yellow is the run circuit.
Last edited by zmanabba; 04-24-2015 at 03:47 PM.
#4
i do not have power to the little terminal when you turn the key to start position.. the large terminal comes straight from the battery right ?? i have power on the big terminal not the little ones..
Last edited by lance kimbell; 04-24-2015 at 03:47 PM.
#9
Melting Slicks
Hi, if the solenoid checks out as mine did it turned out that the ignition switch was worn. The actual switch is mounted on the steering column and operated by a rod when you turn the key. There is some fore - aft adjustment on this switch, it could pay to check that it has not come loose, this can stop the contacts engaging properly. Check the purple/white wire for power at both ends, mine did but not enough to actuate the solenoid properly because of the worn contacts in the switch. The switch is less than $30 and there are two types, one for tilt tele column and one for without.
#10
is their any way to check a solenoid ?? how many volts should you have on the purple wire and yellow wire ?
when the key is turned to the start position??
when the key is turned to the start position??
Last edited by lance kimbell; 04-24-2015 at 05:05 PM.
#11
Drifting
Good luck
#14
Burning Brakes
OK, the big wire on the solenoid comes from the battery and is hot all the time. The purple wire comes from the key switch. If you jumped power to the purple and it started, the solenoid and starter work. Check for power at the purple when you turn the key. If no power, work your way back. It could be the wire, the big connection at the firewall, the key switch, or neutral switch. You need a test light or meter.
#15
If a fusible link opens, odds are very good you cant visually tell. If it is open, it will be one of the red wires, and you can usually tell by giving it a slight "tug". if it's open, you'll usually feel a springy motion which is the rubber sleeve covering the actual fusible link. The purple wire sends 12 volts when the key is in the start position only. That can be checked BEFORE it hits the neutral safety switch for 12 volts while under cranking. Do this at the ignition switch. The mere fact you can energize the solenoid tells me that's not the problem. Sounds like the key in start position isn't getting the 12 volts to the starter solenoid. Process of elimination.
1. It all starts at the ignition switch, driven by a mechanical key cylinder. Probably won't have to go much further. Did the neutral safety switch have 12 volts on the purple wire while in the cranking mode? If not, back up to the ignition switch! Good luck!
1. It all starts at the ignition switch, driven by a mechanical key cylinder. Probably won't have to go much further. Did the neutral safety switch have 12 volts on the purple wire while in the cranking mode? If not, back up to the ignition switch! Good luck!
Last edited by Patro46; 04-24-2015 at 11:31 PM.
#16
OK, the big wire on the solenoid comes from the battery and is hot all the time. The purple wire comes from the key switch. If you jumped power to the purple and it started, the solenoid and starter work. Check for power at the purple when you turn the key. If no power, work your way back. It could be the wire, the big connection at the firewall, the key switch, or neutral switch. You need a test light or meter.
#17
What this guy said. If a fusible link opens, odds are very good you cant visually tell. If it is open, it will be one of the red wires, and you can usually tell by giving it a slight "tug". if it's open, you'll usually feel a springy motion which is the rubber sleeve covering the actual fusible link. Good luck!
#19
Nam Labrat
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: New Orleans Loo-z-anna
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I want to make sure everyone agrees that the START POSITION means that the key is turned as far as it will go to engage the starter.
The purple wire will not show voltage if it is only turned forward to the run position.
On my project car I found two bad splices on the purple wire in the firewall harness after checking everything else from the ignition switch to the solenoid......the two bad splices would intermittently make contact throwing me off track of the problem.
The purple wire will not show voltage if it is only turned forward to the run position.
On my project car I found two bad splices on the purple wire in the firewall harness after checking everything else from the ignition switch to the solenoid......the two bad splices would intermittently make contact throwing me off track of the problem.
#20
I want to make sure everyone agrees that the START POSITION means that the key is turned as far as it will go to engage the starter.
The purple wire will not show voltage if it is only turned forward to the run position.
On my project car I found two bad splices on the purple wire in the firewall harness after checking everything else from the ignition switch to the solenoid......the two bad splices would intermittently make contact throwing me off track of the problem.
The purple wire will not show voltage if it is only turned forward to the run position.
On my project car I found two bad splices on the purple wire in the firewall harness after checking everything else from the ignition switch to the solenoid......the two bad splices would intermittently make contact throwing me off track of the problem.