81 Intake/Carb Swap Reassembly Questions
04-26-2015, 12:25 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
81 Intake/Carb Swap Reassembly Questions
Okay, so I have gotten started with the intake/carb/distributor swap and decided to go ahead and do valve covers at the same time. Edelbrock Performer EPS and Barry Grant 750 CFM Speed Demon. I have a few questions about reassembly...
1. Can the cruise control (I think) vacuum canister mounted near the throttle linkage be removed? My cruise control has never worked and don't plan on ever needing/wanting it. How far would I need to go back with it or can I just remove the canister?
2. What's the best way to mount up the transmission cable? Can the factory bracket be modified to do this or does someone offer an aftermarket bracket that will work with the Edelbrock intake?
3. There was what looked like an electric motor that was mounted on the passenger side of the engine kinda between the distributor and EGR. Is this EGR related? I am running a non-EGR intake so can it be left uninstalled?
I made good progress today. Got the intake and new valve covers installed. Just wanted to clear up a few things before I move forward. Thanks guys!
1. Can the cruise control (I think) vacuum canister mounted near the throttle linkage be removed? My cruise control has never worked and don't plan on ever needing/wanting it. How far would I need to go back with it or can I just remove the canister?
2. What's the best way to mount up the transmission cable? Can the factory bracket be modified to do this or does someone offer an aftermarket bracket that will work with the Edelbrock intake?
3. There was what looked like an electric motor that was mounted on the passenger side of the engine kinda between the distributor and EGR. Is this EGR related? I am running a non-EGR intake so can it be left uninstalled?
I made good progress today. Got the intake and new valve covers installed. Just wanted to clear up a few things before I move forward. Thanks guys!
04-26-2015, 08:56 AM
#2
Safety Car
Okay, so I have gotten started with the intake/carb/distributor swap and decided to go ahead and do valve covers at the same time. Edelbrock Performer EPS and Barry Grant 750 CFM Speed Demon. I have a few questions about reassembly...
1. Can the cruise control (I think) vacuum canister mounted near the throttle linkage be removed? My cruise control has never worked and don't plan on ever needing/wanting it. How far would I need to go back with it or can I just remove the canister?
Yes, just block off the vacuum lines and secure wires
2. What's the best way to mount up the transmission cable? Can the factory bracket be modified to do this or does someone offer an aftermarket bracket that will work with the Edelbrock intake?
Grant sells the correct bracket for the trans cable or you can modify.
3. There was what looked like an electric motor that was mounted on the passenger side of the engine kinda between the distributor and EGR. Is this EGR related? I am running a non-EGR intake so can it be left uninstalled?
this might be a problem with you ECM throwing a check engine light if you disconnect the wires. Maybe tuck it off to the side for now.
I made good progress today. Got the intake and new valve covers installed. Just wanted to clear up a few things before I move forward. Thanks guys!
1. Can the cruise control (I think) vacuum canister mounted near the throttle linkage be removed? My cruise control has never worked and don't plan on ever needing/wanting it. How far would I need to go back with it or can I just remove the canister?
Yes, just block off the vacuum lines and secure wires
2. What's the best way to mount up the transmission cable? Can the factory bracket be modified to do this or does someone offer an aftermarket bracket that will work with the Edelbrock intake?
Grant sells the correct bracket for the trans cable or you can modify.
3. There was what looked like an electric motor that was mounted on the passenger side of the engine kinda between the distributor and EGR. Is this EGR related? I am running a non-EGR intake so can it be left uninstalled?
this might be a problem with you ECM throwing a check engine light if you disconnect the wires. Maybe tuck it off to the side for now.
I made good progress today. Got the intake and new valve covers installed. Just wanted to clear up a few things before I move forward. Thanks guys!
04-26-2015, 10:35 AM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Unfortunately, this is my first attempt at this kind of work so I'm sure I will be learning a lot along the way. I've tried to do lots of research in preparation for the swap, but am taking each step very cautiously to make sure it's going back together correctly.
04-26-2015, 10:52 AM
#4
Race Director
Regarding question 3, if it has 2 electrical connection and a number of vacuum hoses, it's a switch not a motor. It hooks up to a number of emissions items. If you've stripped off most of the emission hear, you probably don't need it.
04-26-2015, 04:31 PM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Also, I got an Edelbrock breather for the passenger side air cleaner, but on the drivers side what can I do about the hoses running to the PCV on the valve cover? There is currently one hose running from the PCV that I think went to the carb or air cleaner. Can I run a breather with a pcv valve built in and leave it at that or do I have to have a line running to the air cleaner? I will be running an aftermarket air cleaner, not the stock snorkel setup.
04-26-2015, 07:04 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
The cruise control is a separate unit under the left fender. And yes, it is easy to remove. You will have to change out your speedo cable, but the unit can be pulled.
The vacuum can next to the brake booster is part of the system, and yes it can be trashe. Check here for a good diagram.
http://shop.docrebuild.com/1978-1981...M14009124.aspx
There is also the smog fume air canister under the washer fluid tank that can also be remove. You will have to block off the line from the tank down by the brake equalizer. A simple plastic vacuum cap will do the job.
2. What's the best way to mount up the transmission cable? Can the factory bracket be modified to do this or does someone offer an aftermarket bracket that will work with the Edelbrock intake?
Your carb should have come with the bracket for the trans cable. Check the instruction sheet. If you do need the bracket, it is part number 1953. Throttle and trans bracket.
3. There was what looked like an electric motor that was mounted on the passenger side of the engine kinda between the distributor and EGR. Is this EGR related? I am running a non-EGR intake so can it be left uninstalled?
There is a ton of EGR stuff that can be deleted. You really need to look at some diagrams and make sure you block off the openings, and or replace parts such as the radiator/thermostat housing without the holes for the sensors.
Also, it is easy to put in a PCV set up. One valve cover goes to the air filter base, and the other with the valve goes to the carb.
there are some diagrams here that should help get you started:
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t10504806-...vacuum_diagram
If you change the distributor and carb, you may as well trash the computer as well. A TON Of stuff can go to the trash if you do that.
04-27-2015, 07:21 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
I'd like to buy that cruise control linkage rod to the old carb if you are going to trash it. I shortened mine to work with a Holley carb and cut too much off. The rod goes from the vacuum pod to the carb linkage. Pm me please.
04-27-2015, 02:08 PM
#10
Instructor
Does your 81 still have the ECM in place (it looks like it since the carb that was on the car is a computer controlled carb). If so, there are a few other things that you have to think about
1) the ECM controls the timing advance of your distributor. Without the carb it will NO LONGER do that. You need to replace the distributor with a Pre-1981 distributor with a vacuum advance. Else the car will always be sluggish. You can tell by looking at the Dist, does it have 4 pin connector coming off the drivers side. Is there NO vacuum canister on the passenger side -- if yes, this is an ECM controlled Distributor and will need to be replaced
2) the ECM also controls the lockup of your toque converter. This too will stop working, you probably wont notice, just increase gas mileage a bit.
The motor thing you are talking about on the passenger side (red and white solenoids) are the way the ECM engages the EGR valve. If you eliminate the valve, you can eliminate the solenoids.
Question -- are you changing the carb and intake to get horsepower or because you couldnt get the current carb to work. General thought is the horsepower on the 81 is limited due to head flow and exhaust flow, changing the carb and intake will have little or no effect. but let us know how it works.
1) the ECM controls the timing advance of your distributor. Without the carb it will NO LONGER do that. You need to replace the distributor with a Pre-1981 distributor with a vacuum advance. Else the car will always be sluggish. You can tell by looking at the Dist, does it have 4 pin connector coming off the drivers side. Is there NO vacuum canister on the passenger side -- if yes, this is an ECM controlled Distributor and will need to be replaced
2) the ECM also controls the lockup of your toque converter. This too will stop working, you probably wont notice, just increase gas mileage a bit.
The motor thing you are talking about on the passenger side (red and white solenoids) are the way the ECM engages the EGR valve. If you eliminate the valve, you can eliminate the solenoids.
Question -- are you changing the carb and intake to get horsepower or because you couldnt get the current carb to work. General thought is the horsepower on the 81 is limited due to head flow and exhaust flow, changing the carb and intake will have little or no effect. but let us know how it works.
04-27-2015, 02:16 PM
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Does your 81 still have the ECM in place (it looks like it since the carb that was on the car is a computer controlled carb). If so, there are a few other things that you have to think about
1) the ECM controls the timing advance of your distributor. Without the carb it will NO LONGER do that. You need to replace the distributor with a Pre-1981 distributor with a vacuum advance. Else the car will always be sluggish. You can tell by looking at the Dist, does it have 4 pin connector coming off the drivers side. Is there NO vacuum canister on the passenger side -- if yes, this is an ECM controlled Distributer
2) the ECM also controls the lockup of your toque converter. This to will stop working, you probably wont notice, just increase gas mileage a bit.
The motor thing you are talking about on the passenger side (red and white solenoids) are the way the ECM engages the EGR valve. If you eliminate the valve, you can eliminate the solenoids.
Question -- are you changing the carb and intake to get horsepower or because you couldnt get the current carb to work. General thought is the horsepower on the 81 is limited due to head flow and exhaust flow, changing the carb and intake will have little or no effect. but let us know how it works.
1) the ECM controls the timing advance of your distributor. Without the carb it will NO LONGER do that. You need to replace the distributor with a Pre-1981 distributor with a vacuum advance. Else the car will always be sluggish. You can tell by looking at the Dist, does it have 4 pin connector coming off the drivers side. Is there NO vacuum canister on the passenger side -- if yes, this is an ECM controlled Distributer
2) the ECM also controls the lockup of your toque converter. This to will stop working, you probably wont notice, just increase gas mileage a bit.
The motor thing you are talking about on the passenger side (red and white solenoids) are the way the ECM engages the EGR valve. If you eliminate the valve, you can eliminate the solenoids.
Question -- are you changing the carb and intake to get horsepower or because you couldnt get the current carb to work. General thought is the horsepower on the 81 is limited due to head flow and exhaust flow, changing the carb and intake will have little or no effect. but let us know how it works.
1. Already covered, have a new HEI vacuum advance distributor. Also picked up a new set of Bosch plugs and MSD wires.
2. I have heard alot of different things on this...Some say if you leave the ECM plugged up apart from the carb/distributor/etc that the lockup function will remain (I have no intention on truly removing the computer in case I ever want to return to stock). If it does not lockup will this hurt the tranny or just hurt fuel economy?
My engine ran really good, just wanted to go to a traditional setup.
04-27-2015, 05:05 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
[QUOTE=wajulia;1589509149
You need to replace the distributor with a Pre-1981 distributor with a vacuum advance. Else the car will always be sluggish. You can tell by looking at the Dist, does it have 4 pin connector coming off the drivers side. Is there NO vacuum canister on the passenger side -- if yes, this is an ECM controlled Distributor and will need to be replaced
QUOTE]
Actually, any nice modern HEI distro will work wonders. I have become a fan of Skip White products....and bought this one for my 454:
http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/...tem=6501B5041B
The lock up is not a big deal. it is a fuel economy device started in 1979. It locks up the crankshaft directly to the transmission instead of the torque converter.
It is supposed to be a bit more economical. Doesn't affect operation or speed at all.
You can put in a mechanical switch, or leave it out.
There are horsepower limitations with the 1981 and other smog cars of about 220 hp. That is because of the crank, pistons and other cheaply made parts that GM never intended to be used for high horsepower.
A top end kit such as yours, losing the smog junk, and helping the engine breath more efficiently will definitely wake it up.
Some headers will really seal the deal with what you are doing.
If you plan on vortec type heads in the future, you should probably look at a some other upgrades because your crank wasn't designed for that kind of horsepower.
I sold my 81s motor and trans on Craigs list and built this 383 and Borg Warner 4 speed.
You need to replace the distributor with a Pre-1981 distributor with a vacuum advance. Else the car will always be sluggish. You can tell by looking at the Dist, does it have 4 pin connector coming off the drivers side. Is there NO vacuum canister on the passenger side -- if yes, this is an ECM controlled Distributor and will need to be replaced
QUOTE]
Actually, any nice modern HEI distro will work wonders. I have become a fan of Skip White products....and bought this one for my 454:
http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/...tem=6501B5041B
The lock up is not a big deal. it is a fuel economy device started in 1979. It locks up the crankshaft directly to the transmission instead of the torque converter.
It is supposed to be a bit more economical. Doesn't affect operation or speed at all.
You can put in a mechanical switch, or leave it out.
There are horsepower limitations with the 1981 and other smog cars of about 220 hp. That is because of the crank, pistons and other cheaply made parts that GM never intended to be used for high horsepower.
A top end kit such as yours, losing the smog junk, and helping the engine breath more efficiently will definitely wake it up.
Some headers will really seal the deal with what you are doing.
If you plan on vortec type heads in the future, you should probably look at a some other upgrades because your crank wasn't designed for that kind of horsepower.
I sold my 81s motor and trans on Craigs list and built this 383 and Borg Warner 4 speed.
04-27-2015, 05:16 PM
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=commander_47;1589510554]
Actually, any nice modern HEI distro will work wonders. I have become a fan of Skip White products....and bought this one for my 454:
http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/...tem=6501B5041B
The lock up is not a big deal. it is a fuel economy device started in 1979. It locks up the crankshaft directly to the transmission instead of the torque converter.
It is supposed to be a bit more economical. Doesn't affect operation or speed at all.
You can put in a mechanical switch, or leave it out.
There are horsepower limitations with the 1981 and other smog cars of about 220 hp. That is because of the crank, pistons and other cheaply made parts that GM never intended to be used for high horsepower.
A top end kit such as yours, losing the smog junk, and helping the engine breath more efficiently will definitely wake it up.
Some headers will really seal the deal with what you are doing.
If you plan on vortec type heads in the future, you should probably look at a some other upgrades because your crank wasn't designed for that kind of horsepower.
I sold my 81s motor and trans on Craigs list and built this 383 and Borg Warner 4 speed.
I just installed a set of Maximizer longtubes/sidepipes so I hope they will compliment my new top end. My longterm plan for the car is to get another block and build a 383 from the heads down. Once it is complete I will swap all of the bolt on upgrades I have done on the stock engine to the new 383 and drop it in. I really enjoy driving the car and I won't be able to build a block fast enough to justify having the car down for that long. Want to keep it driving up until I'm completely ready to do an engine swap.
I actually have an assembled Ford 429 shortblock sitting in my parents garage and a 1980 Trans Am parked under my carport that needs a total restoration. I plan on selling those and using that money to get me started towards an engine build.
Originally Posted by wajulia;1589509149
You need to replace the distributor with a Pre-1981 distributor with a vacuum advance. Else the car will always be sluggish. You can tell by looking at the Dist, does it have 4 pin connector coming off the drivers side. Is there NO vacuum canister on the passenger side -- if yes, this is an ECM controlled Distributor and will need to be replaced
QUOTE
You need to replace the distributor with a Pre-1981 distributor with a vacuum advance. Else the car will always be sluggish. You can tell by looking at the Dist, does it have 4 pin connector coming off the drivers side. Is there NO vacuum canister on the passenger side -- if yes, this is an ECM controlled Distributor and will need to be replaced
QUOTE
Actually, any nice modern HEI distro will work wonders. I have become a fan of Skip White products....and bought this one for my 454:
http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/...tem=6501B5041B
The lock up is not a big deal. it is a fuel economy device started in 1979. It locks up the crankshaft directly to the transmission instead of the torque converter.
It is supposed to be a bit more economical. Doesn't affect operation or speed at all.
You can put in a mechanical switch, or leave it out.
There are horsepower limitations with the 1981 and other smog cars of about 220 hp. That is because of the crank, pistons and other cheaply made parts that GM never intended to be used for high horsepower.
A top end kit such as yours, losing the smog junk, and helping the engine breath more efficiently will definitely wake it up.
Some headers will really seal the deal with what you are doing.
If you plan on vortec type heads in the future, you should probably look at a some other upgrades because your crank wasn't designed for that kind of horsepower.
I sold my 81s motor and trans on Craigs list and built this 383 and Borg Warner 4 speed.
I actually have an assembled Ford 429 shortblock sitting in my parents garage and a 1980 Trans Am parked under my carport that needs a total restoration. I plan on selling those and using that money to get me started towards an engine build.