rear wheels locked
10-07-2015, 11:37 AM
#21
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Sep 2008
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Seems to be a few issues with that differential and I wouldn't personally put it in the car as it sits. I also think it is overpriced based on your description. It might have been rebuilt, but was it done properly and how long ago? Based on seeing shavings it doesn't sound good.
Nail-clipper sized shavings? I certainly wouldn't 'bolt it in and go.'
10-07-2015, 12:01 PM
#23
Team Owner
10-07-2015, 12:43 PM
#24
Drifting
The gray mud and the metal shavings in the bottom will be nothing compared to what is inside the pinion cavity. Possibly a candidate for rebuilding but not ready to run.
10-07-2015, 12:47 PM
#25
Race Director
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IF you don't mind the wrenching time and taking a chance, it sounds like a piece you'd wash out and then run just to get by until you either find another or you're ready to build the one you want. It's maybe worth around $100 if you're willing to take the chance on it.
$400 is too much if the case is really crusty which means it wouldn't make a good core. But, if the case could be used as a core to rebuild then maybe it's worth around $150 to $200.
But then, if there were no chips in the ring or pinion teeth I'd be tempted to wash out your differential, replace the ring gear bolts and then re-assemble it.
$400 is too much if the case is really crusty which means it wouldn't make a good core. But, if the case could be used as a core to rebuild then maybe it's worth around $150 to $200.
But then, if there were no chips in the ring or pinion teeth I'd be tempted to wash out your differential, replace the ring gear bolts and then re-assemble it.
10-07-2015, 06:48 PM
#26
I think most rebuild shop wait till they receive your unit and then decide it any of it is rebuildable .
You want to buy the rebuilt unit from a REPUTABLE rebuilder . One that's been in business a LONG time ....meaning they ve done a few and stayed solvent .
This is something you don't want to be cheapo. with .....cause you let a bubba do it and you ll be revisiting the rear end again . The guy before you most likey didn't have a Corvette specialist tackle the job . So you inherited his Jack leg work.
Buy the right carrier ready to drop in and be DONE with it.
You want to buy the rebuilt unit from a REPUTABLE rebuilder . One that's been in business a LONG time ....meaning they ve done a few and stayed solvent .
This is something you don't want to be cheapo. with .....cause you let a bubba do it and you ll be revisiting the rear end again . The guy before you most likey didn't have a Corvette specialist tackle the job . So you inherited his Jack leg work.
Buy the right carrier ready to drop in and be DONE with it.
10-07-2015, 07:09 PM
#27
Safety Car
I would pass. It's not even worth the effort of installing that diff to see if it works. If you are really tight on cash, tell the guy you'll install it and if it works you give him a $100. If it doesn't, he can pull it out! 
10-07-2015, 08:13 PM
#28
Drifting
I think most rebuild shop wait till they receive your unit and then decide it any of it is rebuildable .
You want to buy the rebuilt unit from a REPUTABLE rebuilder . One that's been in business a LONG time ....meaning they ve done a few and stayed solvent .
This is something you don't want to be cheapo. with .....cause you let a bubba do it and you ll be revisiting the rear end again . The guy before you most likey didn't have a Corvette specialist tackle the job . So you inherited his Jack leg work.
Buy the right carrier ready to drop in and be DONE with it.
You want to buy the rebuilt unit from a REPUTABLE rebuilder . One that's been in business a LONG time ....meaning they ve done a few and stayed solvent .
This is something you don't want to be cheapo. with .....cause you let a bubba do it and you ll be revisiting the rear end again . The guy before you most likey didn't have a Corvette specialist tackle the job . So you inherited his Jack leg work.
Buy the right carrier ready to drop in and be DONE with it.
10-08-2015, 09:14 AM
#29
Racer
Thread Starter
1. Could i try to tap it with new bolts and strong locktite?
2. Is welding an option?
Since according to trackdogg, everything other than case is toast i might as well try to MacGyver stuff
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I understand that i should not cheap out on a diff, the problem is i will not.be able to afford doing it correctly for several years to come. I have an otherwise good working car, i might have to move (divorce) and at this point i cant even get the car towed!
Trackdogg I am very happy you chimed in ! Do you still rebuild diffs? If yes then how much would you charge approximately for rebuilding mine?
10-08-2015, 10:03 AM
#30
Race Director
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You can tap the holes. If you have to, take the caps off so you can pull the carrier. Just make sure the shims behind each bearing shell go back in the same spots when you re-assemble it.
What is going on with the pinion gears, side gears and clutch plates? Do they look OK or is something messed up in there?
I can understand where you're coming from and not having the money to follow the easy suggestions to do it right or not do it at all. Sometimes, patch fixes work well enough to get you by, sometimes they exceed all expectations and other times they just go to hell again. Since you don't have the money, fix it enough the car will drive again and cross your fingers. At this point, if you just replaced the bolts and it fails again you're really not any further behind except for the cost of the bolts and your time.
What is going on with the pinion gears, side gears and clutch plates? Do they look OK or is something messed up in there?
I can understand where you're coming from and not having the money to follow the easy suggestions to do it right or not do it at all. Sometimes, patch fixes work well enough to get you by, sometimes they exceed all expectations and other times they just go to hell again. Since you don't have the money, fix it enough the car will drive again and cross your fingers. At this point, if you just replaced the bolts and it fails again you're really not any further behind except for the cost of the bolts and your time.
10-09-2015, 12:40 PM
#31
Drifting
I had to think about this for awhile because there is a liability issue. The only MacGyver repair I will mention is to pull the carrier out, remove the ring gear, re-install the carrier, and install the diff so the car can be pushed onto a trailer or flatbed.
Cheapest repair is to buy a good used diff.
What diffs are a direct bolt-in?
68-70 automatic
71-79 all
63-67 and 68-70 manual must change the pinion flange or use a conversion u-joint.
All big blocks used the caps on the stub axles. But so did many late 72-early75 small block cars. If you buy a diff with the threaded stub axles you will also need the caps and bolts.
Avoid 63-64 diffs if you want to rebuild it later.
78-79 uses a different rear cover. If yours is all stock with a 2.5 spring you need a 78-79 cover. The 4 spring mounting bolts require a 5/8 socket to remove them. If you have an earlier cover with a 2.25 spring the 4 bolts require a 13/16 socket. A 2.5 spring must use the 78-79 cover.
To rebuild your diff: You'll need to pull the carrier out to see how much damage the ring gear bolts did to the case. At the very least you need all new internals.
Mike
Cheapest repair is to buy a good used diff.
What diffs are a direct bolt-in?
68-70 automatic
71-79 all
63-67 and 68-70 manual must change the pinion flange or use a conversion u-joint.
All big blocks used the caps on the stub axles. But so did many late 72-early75 small block cars. If you buy a diff with the threaded stub axles you will also need the caps and bolts.
Avoid 63-64 diffs if you want to rebuild it later.
78-79 uses a different rear cover. If yours is all stock with a 2.5 spring you need a 78-79 cover. The 4 spring mounting bolts require a 5/8 socket to remove them. If you have an earlier cover with a 2.25 spring the 4 bolts require a 13/16 socket. A 2.5 spring must use the 78-79 cover.
To rebuild your diff: You'll need to pull the carrier out to see how much damage the ring gear bolts did to the case. At the very least you need all new internals.
Mike
10-11-2015, 07:58 PM
#32
Melting Slicks
About 12+ years ago, with a mildly modified L-48, my '76 came to an abrupt stop. Would not go forward or reverse. Finally, after screwing around with it. I managed to get it home. I found a .22 cal. size hole in the rear cover. Removed the rear end an took it to a rear end expert. He removed the rear cover and showed me how the ring gear bolts were loose and two were missing. A flying ring gear bolt had made the hole in the rear cover and another bolt had somehow jammed the rear gear. He explained that the bolts were supposed to have Lock-Tite on them but with the work force in place at the time, specs were not always followed. Gears were alright, but I did replace the bearings and damaged cover. THANK YOU UAW worker.
Rear end has been trouble free for the past 12 years in-spite of the addition of a modified stroker engine.
Rear end has been trouble free for the past 12 years in-spite of the addition of a modified stroker engine.
10-16-2015, 09:21 AM
#33
Racer
Thread Starter
Have an awesome weekend
Poppapork
10-16-2015, 09:55 AM
#34
Racer
Thread Starter
Update:
Since the diff won't fix itself i decided i need to start doing something about it, lacking funds to get a proper rebuild i decided that for now i will disassemble, clean and inspect my diff, its not like I'm risking breaking it and lt will be good experience for a begginer mechanic like myself.
I found that the left hand yoke cap is also loose, the bolts were on its way out! ALL ring bolts were broken but no obvious damage other than a chewed up baffle in the cover and some dents in no-contact surfaces ( The edge of the ring).
I got me some snap ring pliers and the yokes came out, no obvious/visual damage to them.
Can someone give me a hint what to remove next? Im guessing the carrier but im not sure whats holding it... is it suppose to just fall out?
....and i do have some pics for your entertainment!
Since the diff won't fix itself i decided i need to start doing something about it, lacking funds to get a proper rebuild i decided that for now i will disassemble, clean and inspect my diff, its not like I'm risking breaking it and lt will be good experience for a begginer mechanic like myself.
I found that the left hand yoke cap is also loose, the bolts were on its way out! ALL ring bolts were broken but no obvious damage other than a chewed up baffle in the cover and some dents in no-contact surfaces ( The edge of the ring).
I got me some snap ring pliers and the yokes came out, no obvious/visual damage to them.
Can someone give me a hint what to remove next? Im guessing the carrier but im not sure whats holding it... is it suppose to just fall out?
....and i do have some pics for your entertainment!
10-16-2015, 10:32 AM
#37
Race Director
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The carrier will come out. There are shim washers on the outside of each bearing race and the whole assembly is an interference fit into the case. So, if you take it apart then make sure you keep track of the races and washers so you can put them back in the same locations.
That thing actually looks pretty good besides the broken ring gear bolts. I have yet to see a reason you can't fix the broken bolts and put it back into service.
That thing actually looks pretty good besides the broken ring gear bolts. I have yet to see a reason you can't fix the broken bolts and put it back into service.
10-16-2015, 10:42 AM
#38
Drifting
Those videos are old news and he was completely discredited here on the forum. He tried to blackmail me and I wouldn't fall for it so he made the videos. They are a reminder that there is a lot of dishonest people out there. He is long gone, I am still here, same phone number and address, still helping anyone that asks, 7 days a week.
10-16-2015, 01:27 PM
#39
Racer
Thread Starter
Those videos are old news and he was completely discredited here on the forum. He tried to blackmail me and I wouldn't fall for it so he made the videos. They are a reminder that there is a lot of dishonest people out there. He is long gone, I am still here, same phone number and address, still helping anyone that asks, 7 days a week.
10-16-2015, 02:40 PM
#40
Safety Car
The carrier will come out. There are shim washers on the outside of each bearing race and the whole assembly is an interference fit into the case. So, if you take it apart then make sure you keep track of the races and washers so you can put them back in the same locations.
That thing actually looks pretty good besides the broken ring gear bolts. I have yet to see a reason you can't fix the broken bolts and put it back into service.
That thing actually looks pretty good besides the broken ring gear bolts. I have yet to see a reason you can't fix the broken bolts and put it back into service.
Since cash is tight and you don't have much to lose I would also be inclined to put it back together with new bolts. It looks like someone didn't torque the thing properly since not only the ring gear bolts backed out but they are also doing the same on the bearing caps. Too much of a coincidence for me....