Shark Racer

The only time I can really see the dot move when I review my video is when my wife is leaning on the steering locks.

Also, I watched her go through this and thought the same as Smitty mentioned above - I quickly rung through the steering and couldn't see a ton of movement, but my car is on Conti ExtremeContact DWs (300-something treadwear summer tires) on my smooth concrete garage floor - nowhere near the friction that Ignatz and Smitty put through their boxes.

I'd guess <1/8" total travel of the dot. Another unfortunate thing about my perspective is that the dot is closer to the mounting centerline - the view from further out(box input shaft at steering coupler) would see more motion.

Domobomb

How wide and sticky of a tire before this makes a difference?

The 48 hour car was running 315s in front.

Any benefit with my 255 street tires?

Roadster71

Don't know if this was asked in the previous 5 pages of the post, but how is the flexing any different than with a manual steering box?

danc24

Thought I would post my before and after. Definite reduction in steering box movement.

Before:


After:

Bad Bird

Nice. Those results show a marked reduction in box flex for sure.

Smittys67

It is always a benefit to reduce the flex and load on the frame. The bolts have a lot of load on them.

Thanks for the video. I'm not sure I will get one done this week.

Bad Bird

And when you do get it done, it will be very much appreciated. This thread has turned out to be very interesting!

I wonder how much more the flex would be reduced by subsequently welding up the power steering ram access hole in the frame rail. This hole is probably the weakest part of the frame.

Shark Racer

Would using the original u-bolts and thick piece of stock make that area a bit stiffer too? And then you avoid a welder...

Bad Bird

I don't know if you really could brace this big ol' hole with a bolt-on solution:



If you have ever seen a crashed C3's frame, they are always buckled right at this big access hole.

Shark Racer

Yep... I was brain-dead when I wrote that post.

I was thinking we were talking about the four bolt holes at the bottom. Oops.

I agree - welding is the only way.

Bad Bird

It's all good. A picture says a thousand words and all that.

I think that a combination of welding up the access hole, running a spreader bar, running the RideTech brace and maybe a thick plate bolted in where the ram attaches would pretty much solve the front end flex. Box the engine mount horns and sway bar attachment points (as per Chevy Power Book) and the chassis might even be half-way decent.

tristan69

Looks good and reduces the movement a lot.
Do you have a Hydroboost as well as I want to see how they work together?
If you have both are you using power steering fluid or Dextron 2 ATF?

Thanks

danc24

No hydroboost. Car has manual brakes

tristan69

Thanks, I am waiting for Chase to get back to me with where I can buy this bracket and the Burgeon power steering from in Vancouver BC Canada.

I would like to pick up before the CDN $ becomes worthless

0Rodney@ridetech

I will remind him if he hasn't already gotten back with you.

maverickmk

i found this thread thru another thread about steering frame issues. I recently found this on my frame (mine is a 1980).



This underneath, it is a complete run.


The power steering belt was removed when I bought this a few years ago. I have been driving it without the power and think this is the result of that. Without the ram's assistance the frame isn't able to withstand the torque of a power steering box alone. I will definitely order this bracket after I weld up this crack. Just me two cents.

Dirk76

Zero1Niner

Hey Maverick,

Are you going to replace the frame? I have big-time frame issues too for my 1981 (that may have been my thread you found). Ive welded up the cracks, now they are reopening, cracking in new places....nightmare.

The Borgeson is certainly making things worse with all the torque its putting on that crappy a$s frame. Most of the new cracks are right where the Borgeson is applying the pressure to the frame wall. Id really like to have one of these tubular aftermarket frames (with C4 or C5 suspension while Im dreaming), but thats way over my budget. Ill be yanking the motor out to have the cracks welded up once again, but Im sure its not permanent, which totally sucks.

I want to investigate doing a partial frame section replacement. I have not looked into that very much yet.

maverickmk

Yes, the long term plan is to find another frame, blast it, reinforce it and paint it. For now I'm just going to weld up this area and run it for a while. I may also weld a plate over the affected area. I will see how it looks after I weld it up. Just need to get some time to get back at it.

spedaleden

Installing mine this weekend

It took like two hours to do. Much easier to do when your putting the steering box in for the first time but not bad.
It is easier if you remove pitman arm which I didn't


Before


After