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Is my crate motor compatible?

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Old 05-15-2015, 10:48 PM
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jr73
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Default Is my crate motor compatible?

I just got my 383 short block that I ordered from Summit racing. I looked up the casting number on the back of the block which is 10243880 and it says 1996 and up Vortec roller. My question is will my World heads and aluminum manifold also my 1973 turbo 400 tranny work with it? The heads came off an older small block maybe late 70s
Old 05-16-2015, 12:26 AM
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mikem350
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Your parts will work..
But you will need a new flexplate for 1 piece rear main seal!!
Old 05-16-2015, 09:13 PM
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jr73
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Originally Posted by mikem350
Your parts will work..
But you will need a new flexplate for 1 piece rear main seal!!
it came with one
Old 05-16-2015, 09:35 PM
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Karsten
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You might also have some rubbing on the inspection cover with the new flex plate....I know we found that to be the case after installing the New 375 HP 350 I bought from ATK.

You might also want to address the Torque Converter while it is all apart.

I needed a higher stall converter with the newly built Turbo 350 in my 1973.

Karsten

Last edited by Karsten; 05-16-2015 at 09:42 PM.
Old 05-17-2015, 12:34 AM
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jr73
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Originally Posted by Karsten
You might also have some rubbing on the inspection cover with the new flex plate....I know we found that to be the case after installing the New 375 HP 350 I bought from ATK.

You might also want to address the Torque Converter while it is all apart.

I needed a higher stall converter with the newly built Turbo 350 in my 1973.

Karsten
I plan on buying a new TC for my newly built turbo 400 but Im not sure of what stall speed I need.
I want a driver with some grunt around town but dont plan on doing any racing at all (unless some ricer punk pushes my buttons)
Old 05-17-2015, 04:04 PM
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Karsten
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Originally Posted by jr73
I plan on buying a new TC for my newly built turbo 400 but Im not sure of what stall speed I need.
I want a driver with some grunt around town but dont plan on doing any racing at all (unless some ricer punk pushes my buttons)
With the stock converter the car would hesitate off the line so I opted to tear it down again and do the converter.

I called Summit and for what I have motor wise and what I plan on doing (just drive) this was what they recommended

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2702-1

Karsten
Old 05-21-2015, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Karsten
With the stock converter the car would hesitate off the line so I opted to tear it down again and do the converter.

I called Summit and for what I have motor wise and what I plan on doing (just drive) this was what they recommended

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2702-1

Karsten
2300 to 2600 hmm
what is a stock converter rpm stall?
Old 05-21-2015, 06:19 PM
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Silvertone
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Originally Posted by Karsten
You might also have some rubbing on the inspection cover with the new flex plate....I know we found that to be the case after installing the New 375 HP 350 I bought from ATK.

Karsten

I was able to make my '77 inspection cover fit with a little modification. Also found out the steering linkage was hitting the ATK oil pan at full right turn, and successfully "massaged" it after studying pictures of the inside of the pan. Recently replaced the idler arm and that helped lower the linkage, turns out the old one was bent.
Old 05-23-2015, 08:48 AM
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Street Rat
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I believe that casting number does not have a place for a mechanical fuel pump to mount. You will have to go with an electric fuel pump set up if that is the case.
Old 05-25-2015, 01:58 PM
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jr73
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Originally Posted by Street Rat
I believe that casting number does not have a place for a mechanical fuel pump to mount. You will have to go with an electric fuel pump set up if that is the case.
here's a pic of the 383 and a pic of the original 350. After the plate is on I think I should be ok unless there is something I'm not seeing



Old 05-25-2015, 03:27 PM
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427Hotrod
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As a side note....don't forget to take that little short 3/8" bolt from the old motor that is showing between the wate rpump inlet and fuel pump boss and install it on the new motor. It seals up the hole that goes through to the fuel pump pushrod. Will make an oil mess without it.

What cam are you using? That will determe converter to a large degree. Do you have all the bits and pieces to use the HR in that block?

Did you get a balancer with it? Is it internally or externally balanced? Make sure to ck the balancer/timing tab marks to verify TDC is correct. There's a few versions of pointers and balancers out there.

JIM
Old 05-25-2015, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jr73
2300 to 2600 hmm
what is a stock converter rpm stall?

As I recall something like 1600-1700 RPMs.
Old 05-25-2015, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jr73
here's a pic of the 383 and a pic of the original 350. After the plate is on I think I should be ok unless there is something I'm not seeing



looks like an ATK motor, same as I ordered but complete with the balancer, flex plate and profiler Heads. The mechanical pump is a bolt on with the plate and the forementioned 3/8" bolt.

Karsten
Old 05-25-2015, 05:21 PM
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If using a HR cam with a mechanical pump....you need to make sure the pump pushrod is compatible. Most HR cams are austempered and will do fine...if it's a billet you're going to need one with a bronze tip on it. Same with distributor gear...get right combination.

JIM
Old 05-25-2015, 09:23 PM
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jr73
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
If using a HR cam with a mechanical pump....you need to make sure the pump pushrod is compatible. Most HR cams are austempered and will do fine...if it's a billet you're going to need one with a bronze tip on it. Same with distributor gear...get right combination.

JIM
I emailed Lunati and plugged in all the data from my car and what I want it to do and they recommended this cam

part number 10120702LK. This cam is 219/227 at
.050, the lift is .468/.489, and it is ground on a 112 LSA with a 108
intake centerline.
Old 05-25-2015, 10:49 PM
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That's going to be awful mild. What heads do you have? What did you tell them about your plans?

JIM
Old 05-25-2015, 11:47 PM
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jr73
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World heads, iron, 2.05 valve
told them I wanted low end performance around town but would also like to pass cars easily on the high way
Old 05-26-2015, 12:01 AM
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Horsepower: 375
Torque: 400 lb/ft
Block: Seasoned OE 4 Bolt Main 1pc Seal Roller Block P/S Dipstick
Bore/Stroke: 4.040 x 3.480
Displacement: 350 C.I.D.
Crankshaft: OE Cast Crank 3.480" Stroke Externally Balanced Rear/Internal Front 1pc.
Connecting Rods: OE Powder Metal 5.700" Stock Bolts
Pistons: Hypereutectic Flat Top
Piston Rings: Moly Rings
Compression Ratio: 10.1:1 Compression
Camshaft: Hydraulic Roller
Camshaft Specifications: 220/224 @050 .528in/.536ex 112LSA
Camshaft Bearings: Installed & Clocked to OEM Position
Cylinder Heads: Pro-Filer Aluminum 64cc/195cc 2.02/1.60
Freeze Plugs: Brass Installed & Sealed
Rocker Arms: Stamped Steel 1.6 Ratio
Oil Galley Plugs: Installed & Sealed
Oil Pan: OE 5qt.
Weight:350

The above are spce on what I ordered and I wish I had bumped it up to the next level.

Karsten
Old 05-29-2015, 04:58 PM
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jr73
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Originally Posted by Karsten
Horsepower: 375
Torque: 400 lb/ft
Block: Seasoned OE 4 Bolt Main 1pc Seal Roller Block P/S Dipstick
Bore/Stroke: 4.040 x 3.480
Displacement: 350 C.I.D.
Crankshaft: OE Cast Crank 3.480" Stroke Externally Balanced Rear/Internal Front 1pc.
Connecting Rods: OE Powder Metal 5.700" Stock Bolts
Pistons: Hypereutectic Flat Top
Piston Rings: Moly Rings
Compression Ratio: 10.1:1 Compression
Camshaft: Hydraulic Roller
Camshaft Specifications: 220/224 @050 .528in/.536ex 112LSA
Camshaft Bearings: Installed & Clocked to OEM Position
Cylinder Heads: Pro-Filer Aluminum 64cc/195cc 2.02/1.60
Freeze Plugs: Brass Installed & Sealed
Rocker Arms: Stamped Steel 1.6 Ratio
Oil Galley Plugs: Installed & Sealed
Oil Pan: OE 5qt.
Weight:350

The above are spce on what I ordered and I wish I had bumped it up to the next level.

Karsten
your motor sounds solid, in fact that seems to be a healthy lift on that cam. What would you bump on it?

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