half shaft u joints
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
half shaft u joints
I am replacing all the u joints on both half shafts and have run into a problem.I purchased new BRAND NAME u joints. Cleaned out the bores on the flanges and half shafts and the caps go in fine, just a little pressure. But they drive in OK with a hammer and block of wood. When it's time to put the retaining springs in the groove the u joints ar too tall. I measured against the old, rusty, falling out old ones and the new joints are a bit longer. This issue is the same on both flanges and the half shafts, so I don't think it's an issue of the flanges getting bent while removing the old joints. If I grind a little of the outer lip of the cap down, I can manage to get the springs in, and the amount of grinding will determine how tight the finished joint is. Am I missing something here, is this OK to do ( never had this issue before)? And I have checked numerous times to make sure a needle bearing hadn't fallen down inside the cap. Thanks.
#2
Race Director
Only one U joint fits the application.....You have a needle problem or assembly....possibly bending of the yokes also which I doubt
You should be able to install them without hammers and actually in your hand .......the cost of the joints don't reflect the ease of install...
No one here can help you put them in
Sorry, however your not alone when it comes U Joints.....We sold hundreds in our parts store.........and know the problems
You should be able to install them without hammers and actually in your hand .......the cost of the joints don't reflect the ease of install...
No one here can help you put them in
Sorry, however your not alone when it comes U Joints.....We sold hundreds in our parts store.........and know the problems
#3
Drifting
I had a similar issue when I replaced mine. A needle bearing had actually broken in half and stopped it from seating properly. I then reinstalled the new ones using the vise and a large socket. Worked fine and the retainers fit like they should. It's very easy to dislodge a needle bearing using a hammer and block of wood.
#4
Instructor
I know your pain exactly, fitted and refitted mine so many times it was ridiculous. Finally realized it wasn't me, it was the junk the parts store sold me. I went to Napa and got their brand, fit perfectly. Seems like "name brand " is just a word on a box nowadays . Good luck.
#5
Melting Slicks
Agreed. The quality of replacement parts today is absolutely disgusting. And it doesn't seem to matter where you buy them or what brand you buy. Now with that said, I can't condone installing u-joints with a hammer. They should be pressed in. You may have a displaced, bent, or broken needle. Even if everything is undamaged, the new u-joints will still be a tight fit because the seals are new. It will take a little more pressure to get them in than the old ones. Its always a challenge to get the last retaining clip in.
#6
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2011
Location: North of Toronto - Ontario
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If a bearing falls, you won't even be close to putting a ring in.
When I did my 1/2 shafts with spicer joints I had a couple that I couldn't get the snap rings into. The spicer joints are tight.
Went through the selection of clips and found some were thinner that others by several thou. that was all it needed for almost all of them, one I needed to sand down the clip by a little bit more and it clicked into place.
Make sure the grooves are super clean and have no burr or nicks. Once the caps are on give the joint a tap to fully set it against the one clip before trying the second one.
It's more likely the flange is bent slightly, the spicers are less forgiving than the other brands.
HIH
M
When I did my 1/2 shafts with spicer joints I had a couple that I couldn't get the snap rings into. The spicer joints are tight.
Went through the selection of clips and found some were thinner that others by several thou. that was all it needed for almost all of them, one I needed to sand down the clip by a little bit more and it clicked into place.
Make sure the grooves are super clean and have no burr or nicks. Once the caps are on give the joint a tap to fully set it against the one clip before trying the second one.
It's more likely the flange is bent slightly, the spicers are less forgiving than the other brands.
HIH
M
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks to all. I have taken the problem ones back apart, and no needles out of place. They were all where I first put them. The flange pieces work fine, but the ones on the shafts are tight. This is the first time I have had these apart, but I have done my fair share of u joints, from small cars to 18 wheeler tractors. The hammer and block of wood was just to get the last part into the ears. the issues are the second clip, off by just a hair. I have thought that the clips are a bit thick, ( they are Spicer). I can see the groove, just can't get the clip all the way in. Still studying the issue but it could be a bent flange. Have had other issues on the car where the PO used a big hammer to things. Thanks for all the feedback.
#8
Melting Slicks
Ran into the same problem had to sand the clip down on some Emory cloth til it snapped in. That was about 6 yrs ago.
#9
Burning Brakes
Just had the same issue with a u-joint. The snap ring just would not lock into place. I have a press, and after several attempts to squeeze the bearing cap into place to seat he snap ring, I ground down the edge of the ring just enough to allow it to snap into place.
Not sure if the flange is bent or the u joint is too long but I 've got it installed....
Not sure if the flange is bent or the u joint is too long but I 've got it installed....
#10
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Great Plains Iowa
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I am replacing all the u joints on both half shafts and have run into a problem.I purchased new BRAND NAME u joints. Cleaned out the bores on the flanges and half shafts and the caps go in fine, just a little pressure. But they drive in OK with a hammer and block of wood. When it's time to put the retaining springs in the groove the u joints ar too tall. I measured against the old, rusty, falling out old ones and the new joints are a bit longer. This issue is the same on both flanges and the half shafts, so I don't think it's an issue of the flanges getting bent while removing the old joints. If I grind a little of the outer lip of the cap down, I can manage to get the springs in, and the amount of grinding will determine how tight the finished joint is. Am I missing something here, is this OK to do ( never had this issue before)? And I have checked numerous times to make sure a needle bearing hadn't fallen down inside the cap. Thanks.
When you are installing new u-joints its always best to sand the bores until they are bright and shiny and down to bare metal (like new) and coat them with Never-Seez so the new cups tap in easily. During the tapping (or pressing) the sides often get squeezed in a few thousands of an inch and that's why the snap rings don't fit well. By carefully tapping the sides outward a few thousands with a hammer and punch you can get the snap rings to fit perfectly (which is snug).