JEBSi

I have a stock 77 distributor with what looks like stock springs. Is there a spring upgrade or would someone recommend a new distributor?

I just pulled one spring off to set the timing with full advance but I have not started the car yet so I am not sure where it will time at, but I was wondering about a performance upgrade on the springs or even a new distributor if it is worth it. I hear the springs really make a difference.

Thanks

MelWff

the weights need to be lubricated and you need a Mr Gasket or Accel spring kit for HEI. If you don't install them set stock initial timing with springs in place.

kbone077

If you don't want to go that route you can find a distributor for a Chevy small block easy enough and not to expensive.

JEBSi

Thanks for the info. Will this work for new springs and which springs out of the 3 pairs would I install?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-929g/overview/

MelWff

that is the correct kit but do you have a dial back timing light? you determine the correct spring set by observing at what RPM you get a 36 degree total mechanical advance, aiming for close to 3K. Read this link or get the most recent by emailing V8FastCars@msn.com
https://www.corvetteforum.com/articl...k-performance/

redvetracr

I would ask Lars if I was you

JEBSi

I have read that procedure. I have a basic timing light and I have measured and made a white line at the 36 degree mark.

I am confused about removing the stock spring and timing it. Should I remove it and set the timing to the 36 degree mark with the engine revved up until it stops rising? The procedure says to remove it to get full advance otherwise I will not see full advance until red line with the spring installed from what I have read.

Thanks again

JEBSi

I re read that procedure and totally understand what need to be done now. Set full advance with no spring, verify it comes in as close to 3k, if not change to softer springs.
I ordered the spring set and will set full advance while I wait for them to come in.

Revi

You need to have the springs in to time it. At idle the springs are compressed. As rpm increases the springs/weights start to expand advancing your timing. The three springs (gold, silver, black) that come in the kit will expand at different rates/rpm's.

Example,
The black springs (thinnest) will fully expand at 2000rpm
The gold springs (medium) will fully expand at 4000rpm
The silver springs (thickest) will fully expand at 6000 rpm

I would start by installing the medium springs, (this is where a dial back timing light helps a lot) then measure and write down your timing at 1000rpm, 2000rpm, 3000rpm, 4000rpm, 5000rpm, 6000rpm. At some point during this process your timing will no longer advance because the springs are fully extended.

Example, (at 4000rpm the springs are fully extended)
1000rpm 10*
2000rpm 24*
3000rpm 32*
4000rpm 36*
5000rpm 36*
6000rpm 36*

The goal is to get the springs fully extended by 3000rpm. You do not want heavy springs still expanding after 3000rpm or above.

Once you have the right combination of springs installed (usually both medium or one medium & one thin) you have someone hold the engine at 3000rpm, set the dial back timing light to 36*, rotate the distributor until the timing mark is at 0* on the engine timing tab (your engine is still at 3000rpm) and you're done. Tighten the distributor bolt. You'll be at 36*@3000rpm and idle timing will be at whatever number it lands on, no need to worry about it.

What part of the burgh are you from?

larrywalk

You need to pull that thing apart and clean and check it. The post bushings that the weights pivot on are disintegrating; the nylon pads under the weights may be gone too. Be sure and check the clearances of the two bushings that the shaft rides in - replace if too much clearance (the lower bushing may become ovalized and cause too much slop and spark scatter).

Make sure to keep the weights and dial-in the advance curve with springs for best operation. Lubricate the moving parts and reassemble!

JEBSi

You guys are great! Thanks for the advice. I was unable to get the timing line to line up anymore so I had to set the line to 8 degrees btdc and reinstall the distributor, so now I am back at this point of setting the 36 degrees with the correct springs, but I haven't started the car yet or put it back together yet. Just set and installed the distributor. While reading how to install the distributor, it turns out the plug wires didn't match with the document with Lars on how to install the distributor so I had to rearrange plug wires. How is that even possible?

Anyways I will follow Revi's procedure to tune and set it. I measured and made a 36 degree mark on the harmonic balancer from the timing line and will use that for setting. If 36○ comes up before 3000 rpms then I need thicker springs and if 36○ comes up after 3000 I need thinner springs. Then set the timing to the 36○ line at 3000 rpm.
So right now 8○ btdc and I am just graphing the springs? Then I set it the 36○ line at 3000 rpms right? With the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged I am assuming? The connect the vacuum and tune the carb.

I installed new weights and bushings also and will take a picture soon.

Thanks

hugie82

The dist can be clocked anyway you want. Then start your firing order off the rotor position but generally you want number 1 cylinder up front and favoring the drivers side. Drop the dist in with the rotor at 4:00 and it will spin to the 5:00-6:00 position as it drops down. A long screwdriver will help putting the oil pump in the right spot so it will drop down. All this with #1 on TDC.
It sounds like you have the timing procedure down pretty good. I like to tell guys to use the butt dyno and play with your timing a bit. Usually a couple of degrees advanced (turn counter clockwise) wakes the car up. It makes up for timing chain stretch over the years and may even give you a little better mileage. Of coarse if it pings under light loads (going up hill) you'll have to back it off a degree or two (turn dizzy clockwise)

JEBSi

I got it working nicely. Gold springs, new weights and bushings really woke this car up along with the proper timing and everything else I did. Could not be happier! Total hotrod rocket ship now! I recently replaced the intake, carburetor and radiator along with getting rid of emission devices and getting distributor installed correctly as well as the timing were the final pieces to the puzzle. This car is finally running close to it's full potential. It was sluggish and would hesitate before doing this work and now it scares me how easily it will lay tire and accelerate. I could probably lay tire all the way down the road in any gear.