82 700R4 gear selector shaft leaking
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
82 700R4 gear selector shaft leaking
I've had a small tranny leak coming from the gear selector shaft in the 700R4 and decided to finally fix it. I thought it would be as easy as prying out the old seal and popping the new one in. Well I was wrong. I can't pry it for nothing. So has anyone done this before? If I drop the pan is there easy access to remove the shaft then get the seal out?
Also the rubber boot on the cable has deteriorated, can that be replaced by itself or does the whole cable have to be replaced.
Thanks.
Also the rubber boot on the cable has deteriorated, can that be replaced by itself or does the whole cable have to be replaced.
Thanks.
#2
Melting Slicks
#3
Team Owner
There are TWO ways of fixing that leak:
1) Use a small (2" or 3") flat-bladed screwdriver to push the tip through the rubber (inner) seal near the inner edge of the casing. Push it in only about 1/4" or so. Now, lay the screwdriver flat on the seal (which will start to bend the seal casing outward) with shank touching the selector shaft. [Note: During this action, it is very important NOT to scrape the trans housing seal bore with the tip of the screwdriver nor scuff-up the selector shaft with the screwdriver shank. Any damage on these surfaces COULD result in a leak path when the new seal is installed.]
Now, pop the screwdriver handle down with the palm of your hand. This will leverage the screwdriver tip that is under the seal casing and pop it out of its bore.
2) If you only have ONE seal in this bore, you can drive the original seal down farther, leaving room for the new seal to be installed above. Use the backside of a hex socket which is just slightly smaller than the seal bore and which will slide over the shaft. Again, be careful that the socket (seal driver) surfaces do not scuff/mar the shaft journal.
1) Use a small (2" or 3") flat-bladed screwdriver to push the tip through the rubber (inner) seal near the inner edge of the casing. Push it in only about 1/4" or so. Now, lay the screwdriver flat on the seal (which will start to bend the seal casing outward) with shank touching the selector shaft. [Note: During this action, it is very important NOT to scrape the trans housing seal bore with the tip of the screwdriver nor scuff-up the selector shaft with the screwdriver shank. Any damage on these surfaces COULD result in a leak path when the new seal is installed.]
Now, pop the screwdriver handle down with the palm of your hand. This will leverage the screwdriver tip that is under the seal casing and pop it out of its bore.
2) If you only have ONE seal in this bore, you can drive the original seal down farther, leaving room for the new seal to be installed above. Use the backside of a hex socket which is just slightly smaller than the seal bore and which will slide over the shaft. Again, be careful that the socket (seal driver) surfaces do not scuff/mar the shaft journal.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 05-22-2015 at 10:33 AM.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
you need a tool like this
http://www.classictransmissionsoluti...free-shipping/
http://www.classictransmissionsoluti...free-shipping/
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
There are TWO ways of fixing that leak:
1) Use a small (2" or 3") flat-bladed screwdriver to push the tip through the rubber (inner) seal near the inner edge of the casing. Push it in only about 1/4" or so. Now, lay the screwdriver flat on the seal (which will start to bend the seal casing outward) with shank touching the selector shaft. [Note: During this action, it is very important NOT to scrape the trans housing seal bore with the tip of the screwdriver nor scuff-up the selector shaft with the screwdriver shank. Any damage on these surfaces COULD result in a leak path when the new seal is installed.]
Now, pop the screwdriver handle down with the palm of your hand. This will leverage the screwdriver tip that is under the seal casing and pop it out of its bore.
2) If you only have ONE seal in this bore, you can drive the original seal down farther, leaving room for the new seal to be installed above. Use the backside of a hex socket which is just slightly smaller than the seal bore and which will slide over the shaft. Again, be careful that the socket (seal driver) surfaces do not scuff/mar the shaft journal.
1) Use a small (2" or 3") flat-bladed screwdriver to push the tip through the rubber (inner) seal near the inner edge of the casing. Push it in only about 1/4" or so. Now, lay the screwdriver flat on the seal (which will start to bend the seal casing outward) with shank touching the selector shaft. [Note: During this action, it is very important NOT to scrape the trans housing seal bore with the tip of the screwdriver nor scuff-up the selector shaft with the screwdriver shank. Any damage on these surfaces COULD result in a leak path when the new seal is installed.]
Now, pop the screwdriver handle down with the palm of your hand. This will leverage the screwdriver tip that is under the seal casing and pop it out of its bore.
2) If you only have ONE seal in this bore, you can drive the original seal down farther, leaving room for the new seal to be installed above. Use the backside of a hex socket which is just slightly smaller than the seal bore and which will slide over the shaft. Again, be careful that the socket (seal driver) surfaces do not scuff/mar the shaft journal.
Thanks
#6
Team Owner
Simpler and more reliable to go with #2. But, #1 seems to be the selected choice for most folks. Leak protection is actually better with #2 and you have less risk of damaging the shaft and bore surfaces.
But, do what feels right for you.
But, do what feels right for you.
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Well I was unsuccessful at both. There is just no room with it in the car. I guess it will have to wait for another day.
#8
Team Owner
Screwdriver can be pointed straight up from under the car. Handle will be below the car to add leverage. Not sure what you did. It a pretty easy process.
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#10
Intermediate
82 700R4 gear selector shaft leaking
I have a ATF leak on the 700-R4 AT of my 1982 Corvette, and I’m in process of identification of the source of the leak. So far I’ve identified the seal of the manual shift selector shaft, and maybe the ATF pan seal.
I am living in Switzerland and getting spares for the Vette from US is not real fun. I already have the new filter and gasket for ATF pan, and now have a problem where to order the right shaft seal. Part of the problem is missing or wrong information regarding the dimensions, and here is the worst case:
AC Delco 8657163 is specified at Carid as outside diameter 0.756”, inside diam. 0.465” and thickness 0.465”. The same item at Amazon “has dimensions “ of 1.2x1.2x0.3 inches, and for ATP SO-19 even 42x42x12 inches!?
So I need advice which seal is the best: I have found a.m. Ac Delco and ATP, Timken, National 8792S, ATI973050, SKF 4912. The dimensions are mostly close (OD 0.75 – 0.756, ID 0.465 – 0.5) with housing bore 0.75 – 0.751. The thickness is 0.1875 – 0.197, with the exception of Timken which is only 0.126”. ATP SO-19 has good reviews (is by far the cheapest), and somebody even commented that SKF 4912 bought by Napa was looking very inferior to ATP which he commanded as well.
Would appreciate any help!
I am living in Switzerland and getting spares for the Vette from US is not real fun. I already have the new filter and gasket for ATF pan, and now have a problem where to order the right shaft seal. Part of the problem is missing or wrong information regarding the dimensions, and here is the worst case:
AC Delco 8657163 is specified at Carid as outside diameter 0.756”, inside diam. 0.465” and thickness 0.465”. The same item at Amazon “has dimensions “ of 1.2x1.2x0.3 inches, and for ATP SO-19 even 42x42x12 inches!?
So I need advice which seal is the best: I have found a.m. Ac Delco and ATP, Timken, National 8792S, ATI973050, SKF 4912. The dimensions are mostly close (OD 0.75 – 0.756, ID 0.465 – 0.5) with housing bore 0.75 – 0.751. The thickness is 0.1875 – 0.197, with the exception of Timken which is only 0.126”. ATP SO-19 has good reviews (is by far the cheapest), and somebody even commented that SKF 4912 bought by Napa was looking very inferior to ATP which he commanded as well.
Would appreciate any help!
#11
Team Owner
It would be best to start a new thread, rather that to append to one that began 4 years ago. But, as I stated in the PM I sent your way, I have procured the seal you need and will send it to you, if you provide me with a mailing address. Just send the info to me via the e-mail address provided in the PM from this Forum.
7T1vette
You might refer to post #3 of this old thread for some additional info.
7T1vette
You might refer to post #3 of this old thread for some additional info.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 12-19-2019 at 03:53 PM.