stevelucy

overall look sitting on level ground




close-up sitting on level ground




close-up lifted on the air


my door gap is getting bigger in the front side at the top. its big just sitting on the ground, but lift it in the air and it grows bigger. yes two post lift, yes legs are on the frame. I think the front clip is coming un glued. or the frame is bent. plan to pull the body off. if I find the clip needs to come off can the clip be pulled with the windshield on place, or will it need to be removed? I do not wish to pull the body and the clip fall off.

thegavel

Check this post...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ront-clip.html

C376FL

I'm not sure but it looks like you have the car on a lift. If you have the supports to far back I have seen where the front will sag some what and cause the gap to open up. Hope that helps some.
Larry

stevelucy

I have drove this car about two years and now going to rebuild it yes its on a two post lift. yes the legs are all the way front just behind the front uprights by the first body mounts. I have not replaced any thing on the car. but I have seen the door gap getting bigger every time I lift the car to change the oil.

69FASTFUN

Check your body mounts they probably need to be replaced they are rubber and will corrode plus you can shim the front also. There should be a rod from your radiator support to the front end that well also allow you to raise the front end a little.

stevelucy

will I looked at the clue joints and the clip is pulling away on the top corners by the glass and running down the door well about 7 in

DUB

HONESTLY....If the car is lifted up...you can not check gaps at the doors and fenders....not an opinion.....but rather a fact. This widening of the gaps will occur...which is why when Corvette is put up on a lift...the safety stands need to be placed and used under the cradle to aid in raising the front engine area so this widening of the gaps is greatly reduced.

AND...your door in your photos appears to be too low and needs to be raised. I am looking at how low it seems to be at the bottom of the door where it meets with the fender.

Doubtful it has anything to do with the rubber body mounts. Even with brand new mounts...this widening of this gap would occur when lifted as it is now.

DUB

stevelucy

I hear you but the car is on the ground in the photo. and the door is right the green paint is not all the way off. and it throws your eye off. plus I found the front clip is cracking off at the glue joints. it tells me I have to remove it to redo the glue right. thank you. the hole driver side is loss. I can pick up on the fender and move it by the door. just found this out.

Easy Mike

Hinge pin bushings might take out some of the gap after the door is aligned.

DUB

I will post a photo tomorrow and you can see the difference at the top of the door in relation to the top edge of the top hood surround. Now knowing that you feel that the end of the top hood surround has lost its bond....that can help if ti get bonded back in place...but I still feel that the door is low in regards to the way the gap looks....and it has nothing to do with paint. I can see past that....and I am looking at your first photo.

DUB

stevelucy

pass side




half way down door




driver side


found the problem my front clip is falling off. yes I am going to adjust the door too. can you tell me or see a video on adjusting the doors

stevelucy

body off


oh is this the dead nail in my rebuild. I have not pulled a front clip. a little help would go a long way. body is off

SB64

Hi Stevelucy, a couple of things on pulling the front clip. Using the lift you will need to support the back of the car. Once the clip comes off all the weight ***** to the rear. I just completed removing the front clip off my donor car. I started at the bottom by the rockers. A heat gun and various putty knifes and a slim jim com in handy. As you heat an area and start removing it I placed wooden shims along the way to keep it of the car. Takes some time. Easy to break it or crack it. Good luck.
r












PATIENCE is golden. One good thing you have going is the clip is from your car. In my case the clip was being installed on another car. Hope this helps. The last picture is test fitting the donor clip on my project car. Glued it all up just yesterday after a couple of months of mock up.
r

DUB

YES...I have seen this type of separation at the hinge post/plenum area.

You honestly must be joking. With the skill level you possess and are showing by pulling the body off the frame.,....adjusting a door is literally no big deal. The door itself has slots that allow you to go 'up and down' with the door. The hinge post has slots in it so the hinges can go front to rear. I try to get the bottom edge of the door to be flush with the fender....when I do this...the rest of the gap corrects itself 90% of the time between the door and fender. It is a slight balancing act in regards to getting the gap correct at the quarter panel....and then checking to make sure the window can be adjusted...and to door weatherstrip will be effective.

My opinion...for whatever it is worth to you: DO not pull the front clip when it is off the frame. Leave it on until you get the body back on the frame and secured. OBVIOUSLY...you can do it how ever you want to.,...but I will write...I DO NOT install front or rear clips when the body is on a dolly or supported...and this is because getting all gaps and panels correct...doing this on the FINAL setting of the body on the frame guarantees that you can get it right. I have lost count on the number of Corvettes I have seen and advised them to do as I wrote and do it 'their way'...get it perfect when it is on a dolly...and when it goes to be put back on the frame the body changes due to shimming and 'they' call me and ask me what they did wrong.

DUB

stevelucy

thanks to you all this info helps. thanks DUB, and RVZIO. yes I am a master technician for ford. but not a ford man. I am a year man, depends on the year. I have a 69 mustang, 67 amc rambler, and a 70 roadrunner. oh an this 77 vette. I will not install the clip until I bolt the bird cage down to the frame. I ordered a new roller frame stainless steel. I built my dolly but made some changes so I can support the cage and front clip and then separate them. just waiting on my casters I order 8 10" casters from harbor freight.

SB64

As a retired finish carpenter and cabinet maker that is a pretty sophisticated looking dolly and a lot of wood, nice job.
r

stevelucy

hay I am a tall man. 6 feet 3". I have to put floor pans in it. right at the middle where the two boxes meet. and the gussets I can remove the gussets and separate the two. or screw the two together and install the gussets to transport to the painter. and with the big 10" caster I am going to put under it. it will roll over anything. on and out my trailer. but yes its a little over built. I say better over than under. all I need is the body braking the dolly going down the road on the trailer. plus I can take the uprights off and seat the body in the lower dolly. iam trying. this is my first vette. but with you gays and the books and YouTube, I think it will turn out mint. I ordered a new stainless steel chassis "rolling" and I just built a 454, with headers and injectors. plus the upgrade chassis. the bird cage is rust free. floor pans have some rust hole down in the foot wells. I am going to replace the mount in the body too.

stevelucy

oh hay rvzio do you have a complete right side headlight bucket. my headlight frame that bolts to the body is broke in two spots.

SB64

I only have the ones from the donor that will go with the clip. Had the ones from the Eckler clip but sold them. Sorry1
r

SB64

Hi SteveLucy, now my car is a 69 and yours a 77 so there may be some different adhesive points. I think I notice no thin strip running across from fender to fender. Either not there or a change.
Anyway here are the adhesive points on a 69. You might want to consider getting the AIM for 77. Very helpful. Hope this helps, let me know.
r




These are the points on a 69. I would remove the door for MUCH more easier access and slip a thin putty knife in that seam with heat. Then I would try to loosen the bottom arrow location. Then you have all exterior point loose. Then the real fun starts. It is very difficult to get to those supports shown by the red arrow. A slim jim worked for me but slow going. You can do it just take your time and use whatever tools work for you. I will be watching.