chrisviktorjakematt

I am trying to replace the rubber brake hoses to the calipers. I have the caliper off but am having trouble getting the soft hose to disconnect from the hard line. What size wrench should I be using?? I am afraid I am starting to round off the nuts and dont want to go too far and regret it.
The c clip came off fine and it was no problem getting the rotor off. any help is appreciated as I am trying to get this done today.

mikem350

Believe its 3/8 on the hard line. Get a line wrench (or flare wrench). This has a small opening to provide max grip on the fitting. Also use a backup wrench on the soft end if its turning.

ddawson

But the caliper back on the mount. Doesn't have to be tight and use a flare wrench.

chrisviktorjakematt

thanks,

i just got to carquest before they closed to pick up a flare wrench (i never heard of one before) Hopefully I can wrap this up tonight or tomorrow am.

arklacat

I couldn't get mine loose even with a flare wrench. I used a 10" pipe wrench and it worked like a charm. A 6" would have been better/easier but I couldn't find one locally.

KapsSA

I've always cracked it loose with a vice grips.
Mars the nut a little but looks better than gouged/rounded up with a wrench, even a line wrench.

Ironcross

More commonly called line wrenches ......well stocked auto parts stores will have them....Most of the steel lines to calipers are 3/16 ths and if I recall correctly the line wrench size is 7/16

Solid LT1

If the nut is starting to round off and the nut is seized...put a pair of Vice Grips around the flare wrench.....use some heat on the connection and spray some PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench or other rust buster on the connection 1st.

chrisviktorjakematt

i could not get the nut off to save my life. tried newly purchased line wrench, no good, tried vice grips no good. Am I turning it the wrong way. Its on the pass front side and I am attempting to rotate counter clockwise from the back of the car toward the front but the actual metal brake line is twisting up and the nut is not moving.

Should the c-collar be in place while I attempt to loosen the nut or should I have the c-collar off first?

chrisviktorjakematt

Alright I temporarily put installed the new caliper and pads to the existing old rubber line(not an easy task). After bleeding both the front sides repeatedly the pedal feels ok and the brake light does not come on any more. However when I test drove the car to see whats up the front caliper that I replaced locks up first on panic braking and in normal braking it pulls to that side noticably. Is this because I have not put the new pads on the opposite side yet and the new pads just grip first or is there some other problem???

7T1vette

Those old rubber hoses deteriorate from the inside. You MUST change all the hoses out to be sure of having a safe system. Use heat, rust penetrant, etc.--whatever you have to do to change it out.

I had one hose doing what your is doing. In the end, I had to cut it off and replace one of my brake lines. Hopefully, yours won't require that fix.

arklacat

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...continued.html


My dealings with the rubber line. Read down through about the 5th or 6th post.

chrisviktorjakematt

i will give the heat a try as i have hit it with enough liquid wrench to loosen every bolt on the car. how difficult is it to replace that brake line from the proportioning valve to the caliper if it comes down to it???

chrisviktorjakematt

thanks that gives me a few ideas. I may just replace the whole brake line from the proportiong valve to the caliper. I am thinking i should check to see if the master cylinder is leaking into the power booster. It looks like just two bolts connect the two. Is there anything else I should know before attempting this. Will it be obvious if there is a leak??
thanks

7T1vette

Master cylinders are easily rebuilt. The rebuild kits come with new seals, a new piston/valve set, and lines/fitting to allow you to bench-bleed it before installing (or once installed but before attaching lines).

If your M/C has not been rebuilt previously, you should do so while you are working on the brake system. If your vacuum booster is working fine, no need to rebuild it.