dembo

Hi Everyone,
Did a search on the forum but info, installations or experiences are sparse. (On other forums like 3rdgen, Holley, ...reviews aren't too bad and support on the Holley tech forum seems ok)

Has anyone been running it for a while with good results?

I had PJIII but had a lot of issues
I don't want to be a guinea pig for the fitech system
Edelbrock requires a ignition box for timing control
Fast seems like overkill for my crate engine

I would go Terminator efi because
1) timing control with a small cap HEI and no CD box required
2) works with C5 filter regulator so I don't need a seperate regulator and return line from engine compartment to the back

Thanks,

Kevin BC

I have it installed, but no long term use to report on.
First start last weekend, but I unfortunately have tranny issues to resolve so won't be able to get driving experience until next week.
I did go with the regulator and return line though.

TheSkunkWorks

Good inquiry. FWIW, tho this is the one I'd most likely pick if deciding today, I'd definitely like to hear some more feedback on it too.

Danish Shark

Reviews on the Summitracing site are pretty bad.

Kevin BC

I looked these up. 2 of 10 had some problems, including not happy he had to run a return line to the fuel tank. Others were positive ???

dembo

black one 5 stars, polished one 4 stars and taking into account people are most likely to post bad experiences I'd say it gets a extremely good reviews. If you complain about plumbing I don't think you should even be considering a EFI swap
Too bad about the tranny issues Kevin I'm following your thread very closely now
Nick

moonsteel

I have the Holley HP EFI (TPI Version), if that helps any.

Danish Shark

OK, the one I looked at had four reviews. Two positive reviews from customers who hadn't started the car yet and two bad reviews from the two guys who had started it (or tried to).

dembo

Yes please moonsteel, I think the software is more or less the same. Lots of tuning to do although it's self learning? Did you have to get a dyno tune to get it right? How long have you got it running and did it have any issues? Some general info would give me reassurance (or not) about the reliability. (Unlike some reviews on vendor site which I can google for myself)
Thanks
Nick

burners

Yes, the Holley HP EFI uses the same computer and software as the Terminator. The only difference is the throttle body. I have the HP EFI running on my station wagon with a blower. I've had it running for two years and have put about 30,000 miles on it. Overall I'd say it's a wonderful system. I did all the tuning myself and while it took a fair amount of time to get most things running well I was still able to use the car. It is my primary family car and we drove it the full length of the Power Tour two years ago.

Tuning it is very straight forward and simple to get in the ballpark quickly. I just had a lot of unusual issues due to the supercharger. Once it is up and running the self tuning does great things and takes over most of the work. The self tuning doesn't work for things like idle step-up, warm-up tables or timing but once you have those sorted they aren't dynamic. The starting maps will be really close for a N/A crate engine anyway. I highly recommend the system. It's easy to install and I'm running the small cap HEI with full computer control as well. It's a great way to go.

Jamess411

Hey Burners….I would be very interested in seeing your map tables. I have a HP on a 420sbc and a 6-71. Was having HUGE problems for about the last year. Could never get it to run right or enough to take it out of the parking lot. Are you using an IAC valve? What filtering setting are you using with your distributer??? Mag or optical pickup? Any information will be greatly appreciated.
Finally I stared messing with the filtering and by then I had screwed up the map tables soo bad that when the original problem was gone it was all messed up. A friend came over and said how about loading a new Cal from the list and POOF!!!!! it was running much better. Now I just have to get my Meth injection to work so I do not melt a piston under boost. And maybe I can even drive the car lol.

condor7

Hi Dembo, I see on another post where you pulled the trigger on the Terminator. I have not ordered mine just yet. I too tried the PJIII and it just was not happy with my cam. Have a retro roller and several mods now to include 12-13 inches of vacuum at idle so it should be happy with a EFI unit on top now. If you could, please post your install and/or experiences with the Terminator. I may just order mine anyway but always interested on other's experiences. If I get mine I'll post up the install and stuff as well. That's what is great about this and other forums, real world experiences. Thanks.

dembo

Will do Condor, but it will take several weeks, I'm doing several things at once : ACdelete, Terminator install, Tanks inc efi gas tank, looking for a thud in the driveline and Dakota digital VHX gauges which,take 8 weeks to deliver (now in the 5th week, ordered from Custom Image Corvettes).
I'll snap pictures as I go along.
Regards,
Nick

condor7

Thanks. I left my fuel system intact from when I tried the PJIII unit. I alreadly have a Walbro 225 plumbed in with a return line. I used a regulator from Mallory to reduce pressure form EFI levels to carb levels. Works just fine, and I must use the return line. My big concern is where to mount the ECU for the Terminator. I see where some have put them behind the passenger dash. I have Vintage auto air so don't think that will work because of EMI. I also have a MSD 6A mounted in the engine compartment firewall. I have read there needs to be at least 24 inches between the two. Mounting under one of the seats might work however I have installed fully electric C5 sport seats which does not leave much room under a seat. If the cables are long enough I am thinking about just behind one of the seats mounted to the verticle area just before entering into the cargo area. Just don't know if the cables will be long enough or if one can splice them to make longer without messing things up. I guess a call to Holley is in order.

My 68 Vert is highly modified but keeping the 68 look. Like you I have a 355 with 4 bolt mains, flat tops, retro roller cam, Dart heads, Edelbrock Airgap, and lots of other stuff. Been modifing this car since I got it home 14 years ago. Nothing but a frame and lots of stuff unmarked in boxes. Anyway I like the Dakota VHX gauges also. I have already replaced all my gauges to electric using all 68 faces so it still looks all 68 inside otherwise was going to go the VHX route and then a nav system of some type. Use a 6 inch portable Garman now so that works just fine. Have a 5 speed in it and two years ago installed a 3:08 rear end and removed the 3:73. With the 670 Avenger I was getting 20MPG at 80 MPH keeping up with C6's and C7's from our club. (I have adjusted the carb since then with the aid of a A/F gauge and expect better mileage and performance now)

So why go to EFI? Time for the carb to get replaced. It is over 10 years old and I have rebuilt it twice. Mainly because of ethonal gas issues. Have been kicking around an LS swap but that is a ton of work and besides there is nothing wrong with the GENIII in the car now. Would love to do a LS7 but..... I will certainly post up stuff on the Terminator when and if I get it. Again my preference for it is because of timing control and a good support forum for those of us who can't get it right the first time. Looking forward to your posts. Hope all turns out well.

dembo

So, the summit order came in. The Terminator comes very well packed, with foam around everything. I dug in before taking snaps.
Still to see is the main harness, battery cable harness, ecu, temp sender and hand held


Some additional parts I need for the install. There are more but I'll snap pictures some other time : Painless cirkit boss fuse panel, clip on wire looms, fuel pump block off plate, centerbolt spark wire organisers 10mm, battery terminals


Fuel pressure transducer and small cap hei to Terminator harness


DUI small cap hei, coil, coil to hei harness and live wires


Terminator TBI on manifold. I'm using the Lokar throttle and tv cable. The Terminator comes with two brackets for standard cables. I cut both noses off and used them as a spacer under,eath the lokar bracket so the cables would be near horizontal instead of angled. The throttle body is slightly lower then the street demon it's replacing and definitly lower then the Quadrajet which was on the engine before so more hood clearance!




Got the acdelete cover installed. As like everyone it needed some shaving around the motor to get clearance with the bondo and the resistor is installed from the bottom so lenghtening the harness is required. To remove the evap core acces from underneath is required. Rocker panel and the metal shield has to be removed. I did the acdelete because I really dont't need it and thought the cover could be a good spot to mount the ecu on. All that space!



Guess not either the fixation holes are too close to the wall or the connectors are too close to the headers or the relay blocks a connector port. In the end it's not a good spot afterall. The Terminator harness is pretty long so a different location, see below, will take up some slack.




So the most likely spot is on the inner fender where a lot of guys mount a MSD box. Connecters will be pointing upwards but above the side louver. The car is never driven in the rain so I hope it'll be ok. It's a little lower in the picture then it will be. You are looking from the engine to the bottom of the coolant reservoir.


More to come ...
Nick

dembo

Have look on the rh inner fender if you dont have ac. Plenty of room! I'm gonna mount the VHX ecu behind the passenger dash pad. Besides you'll need a big hole to pass the connectors through if you mount the ecu inside the cabin. The rh rear storage tray has sufficient space but then the main harness will need to be extended, not somerhing I would like to do. You already need a hole in the firewall to pass the power harness through and as you know space is tight in these cars. I thought of a LS3 as well, but too much work and too pricey for me. If you need part numbers or other info Condor just ask.
Nick

condor7

Hello Nick, First thanks for all the pictures and info. You are certainly coming along very well. As for the location of stuff; I have vintage auto air. The OEM A/C unit is no longer and all inside under the dash on the passenger side. It is a very nice unit and compact. Only thing on the outside is the dryer and pressure switch. Where you are looking at the ECU location looks good as long as it does not get hot from headers. My Vette had the ole vacuum door for the wiper set-up. I removed all of that and run a L88 long hood with cowl. I mounted my MSD6 box where the vacuum can used to be for the wiper door. Works well in that spot. That may be a great spot for the ECU and just relocate the MSD6 to another location.

I already have most items for a change over short of a regulator and some AN6 fittings. I still have 3/8 hard line left from when I put in a 3/8 return line some time ago.

Looking at everything you have posted and the instructions I downloaded it would seem that the only cable to run inside would be for the hand-held. That is if I can re-locate a few things without creating a total mess.

What brand distributor and coil did you go with. I was looking at the MDS and blaster 2 for this set-up. Then I saw Jegs for considerable less and then OEM from Rock Auto at even better savings. I just need to have a steel or melonised distributor gear for my roller cam.

About how long would you say the cables are for the TBI to the ECU and the 02 sensor. I am going to have to drop my passenger header and weld in a bung. I have one on the drivers side and that is where the wide band is for my A/F gauge. I still want to use my A/F gauge no matter what. Most of this is most likely a non issue but stuff to think about.

I do all my own work. I The hood design was my idea and turned out good. Had to switch out the inserts in the header tubes, wife was not enjoying the flow through as much as I was. So have reverse flow in the tubes now and I discovered my radio actually works. Thanks again for the updates. Bob





Finished the second paint job








What can I say, I like bling





I have made some other mods since this but you get the idea.

condor7

Hello Nick, I'm putting together my shopping list, Terminator, distributor (Jegs 40006), coil (MSD 8207), regulator (Aeromotive 13130), Holley adapter cable ( 558-304), and the Holley linkage (P/N 20-122). Been kind of mapping out where everything is going to go. Already have the MSD 6AL, return fuel line and so on. Need to figure out a good safe venting system for the fuel tank. Had a vented cap but not really sure if they are for letting air in or out. Thought about a fuel filter attached to the vent return outlet at the passenger side of the tank. It its real high so no issue of fuel slosh I would think. Just thinking things through. How is your project coming along?

Solid LT1

You should seriously consider the amount of heat given off by your headers before deciding to mount that ECM 6-8" away from a 900-1200 degree heat source! Put it out further mount it to the rear of the inner fender panel!

dembo

Heya, sorry for the delayed update, I've been painting and wall papering away befor my wife returns from holiday tomorrow.
Beautiful car! Love the color, the stripe and the L88 hood.
I got my distributor, coil and wires from DAvis Unified Ignition. They where very helpfull, fast in shipping and have a good reputation.
Next to the harness is a 2 meter 'folding ruler?' If you mount the ECU inside under the seats for example, I think you'll need to lengthen alot of wires. The O2 wire comes out of the last split. They do sell a extension harness. If you,decide to install it inside I wouldn't go alot further then behind the dash. Finding a spot for the 2" hole in the firewall might be a challenge.



I did eventually mount the ECU on the fender. Far away from the headers in air flow. Instructions state not to install it extremely close to headers and high voltage components like coil and distributor. Of course 'extremely' is relative ...




I routed the power harness around the blower motor and drilled a hole next to the AC harness grommet. On the inside it comes in above the std heater box. From there on it follows the heater cable to the left and is routed underneath the air to feet duct, then under the center and brake console through a hole I made in the rear bulkhead to the battery. The cable is just long enough to reach the battery posts.




The fuel pressure transducer will be mounted to the rear port (as seen on other installs with the C5 filter/regulator



Today I set my nr1 cilinder to 12° BTDC and took my old distributor out to get more clearance for harness routing which I just started to lay out. Its a serious bundle! I'm still not sure what the correct procedure is to sync the distributor. The instructions and the comments of Danny on the Holley forum are totally different. I hope the 12°BTDC will give me a good starting point.
Then lost half a day getting my speedometer gear housing out of the 700 to replace the seals (leaking). A lot of swearing going on with the 2.5" exhaust tubes, bowtie crossmember and a too narrow transmission tunnel. It took a little persuading to get it out 'read as yank on the speedo cable'

I'll have to spend some time with the wife the following days and then where off for a 3 days so work will slow down.

Nick