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When I was looking at how to pull colder air- this is the best solution I found- I have since changed my induction system and going to pulling through the hood-
Pretty cool idea really
I will have to reach out to them on this idea
Thanks
Originally Posted by Richard454
When I was looking at how to pull colder air- this is the best solution I found- I have since changed my induction system and going to pulling through the hood-
Build an air intake for the space between the top of the radiator and the radiator frame. The later C3's had ducting that used that space for cool air intake. Just sticking the air filter anywhere inside of a closed engine compartment guarantees that the intake air will be at least 150*F.
Is there enough room to bring the air intake tube back along the right side between the fender and valve cover/ then turn it down and away so it can pull air from the egg crate on the right side.
Is there enough room to bring the air intake tube back along the right side between the fender and valve cover/ then turn it down and away so it can pull air from the egg crate on the right side.
Yes, You can certainly do that , but that is a low presssure air area as it is designed more for heat escape than fresh air in etc ? also you pick up the heat from the headers running down the side of the motor
Over the radiator is the way to go , just wish a completed part was readily available to do it with. Looks like notching the radiator support is a must to create enough room to make it work..
As Richard posted, an fairly easy option would be to use a cut down rad like the supercharged C5 and C6 crowd uses to provide additional clearance over top of it.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
C3 of Year Winner (track prepared) 2019
Here is my take on it as I too was getting IATs that were god-awfully high!
This still lets it heat soak a bit if you sit in traffic too long but as soon as you get rolling, the air temps come right down. Being plastic, it doesn't heat soak nearly as bad as some of the other attempts to build an air box out of metal.
This is a GTO Vararam intake that literally just slid between my aluminum radiator and the core support, no trimming was required at all. I then used a flexible intake hose from a Corvette and my own MAF tube and bingo! Seems I have been the only one to use this, probably due to the higher initial cost of the Vararam, but it does work!
You obviously have to lose the seal between the top of the radiator and the core support. This allows plenty of fresh COOL air to rush over and into the intake when driving! Last time I looked, I was seeing IATs of 10 degrees above ambient, which was much better than the 160-170 degree temps I got with the 90 degree metal tube with a filter on the end.
Here is my take on it as I too was getting IATs that were god-awfully high!
This still lets it heat soak a bit if you sit in traffic too long but as soon as you get rolling, the air temps come right down. Being plastic, it doesn't heat soak nearly as bad as some of the other attempts to build an air box out of metal.
This is a GTO Vararam intake that literally just slid between my aluminum radiator and the core support, no trimming was required at all. I then used a flexible intake hose from a Corvette and my own MAF tube and bingo! Seems I have been the only one to use this, probably due to the higher initial cost of the Vararam, but it does work!
You obviously have to lose the seal between the top of the radiator and the core support. This allows plenty of fresh COOL air to rush over and into the intake when driving! Last time I looked, I was seeing IATs of 10 degrees above ambient, which was much better than the 160-170 degree temps I got with the 90 degree metal tube with a filter on the end.
This looks great & easy at the same time, BUT, I thought you had to have at least 10" from the TB to the MAF sensor
How is your tune efected by this ?
I am desperate, Like you , I am seeing temps around 140 & higher with the 90* elbow
Here is my take on it as I too was getting IATs that were god-awfully high!
This still lets it heat soak a bit if you sit in traffic too long but as soon as you get rolling, the air temps come right down. Being plastic, it doesn't heat soak nearly as bad as some of the other attempts to build an air box out of metal.
This is a GTO Vararam intake that literally just slid between my aluminum radiator and the core support, no trimming was required at all. I then used a flexible intake hose from a Corvette and my own MAF tube and bingo! Seems I have been the only one to use this, probably due to the higher initial cost of the Vararam, but it does work!
You obviously have to lose the seal between the top of the radiator and the core support. This allows plenty of fresh COOL air to rush over and into the intake when driving! Last time I looked, I was seeing IATs of 10 degrees above ambient, which was much better than the 160-170 degree temps I got with the 90 degree metal tube with a filter on the end.
A MAF with the honeycomb inside is quite tolerant of turbulence in the airflow since the honeycomb is there to straighten the airflow. A de-screened MAF is what gives trouble if it's not in a nice straight piece of intake ducting. I'm not sure what was done with that LS3 since it appears to have the card MAF.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
C3 of Year Winner (track prepared) 2019
Originally Posted by Illegal Vette
The MAF on my LS1 equipped '82 is inside an airbox and at most 4 inches from the throttle body, no codes and no problems.
Originally Posted by lionelhutz
A MAF with the honeycomb inside is quite tolerant of turbulence in the airflow since the honeycomb is there to straighten the airflow. A de-screened MAF is what gives trouble if it's not in a nice straight piece of intake ducting. I'm not sure what was done with that LS3 since it appears to have the card MAF.
Correct, the "typical" recommendation is to have 4-6" on either side of the MAF but in this case, there was no other option.
I did put a honeycomb in front of the MAF card but honestly it did not change the tune much. To be honest, I did fight with the tune myself using HPTuners before paying MTI Racing in Marietta, GA to tune the car for me (not related to the intake, just generally couldn't get the car to run well.) I have a good bit of learning to do before I am competent in tuning the factory ECM....It is nothing like using FAST or Holley's tuning software. There are tables upon tables upon tables!! Also, I have heard the Vararam intakes are notorious for generating turbulent airflow, but not sure if this particular intake qualifies as it is really just a heat shield and filter. Some of their intakes for c5/c6 cars go over the top of the core support like stock.
Correct, the "typical" recommendation is to have 4-6" on either side of the MAF but in this case, there was no other option.
I did put a honeycomb in front of the MAF card but honestly it did not change the tune much. To be honest, I did fight with the tune myself using HPTuners before paying MTI Racing in Marietta, GA to tune the car for me (not related to the intake, just generally couldn't get the car to run well.) I have a good bit of learning to do before I am competent in tuning the factory ECM....It is nothing like using FAST or Holley's tuning software. There are tables upon tables upon tables!! Also, I have heard the Vararam intakes are notorious for generating turbulent airflow, but not sure if this particular intake qualifies as it is really just a heat shield and filter. Some of their intakes for c5/c6 cars go over the top of the core support like stock.
I suspect the problem would be related to elbows, since ours are straight we aren't seeing any problems. Also I'm guessing your card type MAF may have required a little more tuning than an off the shelf MAF.
This sounds like a solid plan.
I can go crazy over the winter with a lowered radiator and over the top filter set up then. This should be a much better alternative to the 90* set up I have now
Thanks
Originally Posted by Illegal Vette
I suspect the problem would be related to elbows, since ours are straight we aren't seeing any problems. Also I'm guessing your card type MAF may have required a little more tuning than an off the shelf MAF.
Fleming,
1. In the photos you show the air filter in one shot has a bump rising up in the middle of the base as to fill the void in the hood.
On the next photo the bump is in board like a depression in the top of the filter ??
2. Looking at the photo of my engine with the standard C3 styple aluminum radiator, My top hose may be too high to allow the tray to fit ? Do you have a Dewitts LS radiator or standard like mine ?
What do you think ?
Originally Posted by fleming23
Correct, the "typical" recommendation is to have 4-6" on either side of the MAF but in this case, there was no other option.
I did put a honeycomb in front of the MAF card but honestly it did not change the tune much. To be honest, I did fight with the tune myself using HPTuners before paying MTI Racing in Marietta, GA to tune the car for me (not related to the intake, just generally couldn't get the car to run well.) I have a good bit of learning to do before I am competent in tuning the factory ECM....It is nothing like using FAST or Holley's tuning software. There are tables upon tables upon tables!! Also, I have heard the Vararam intakes are notorious for generating turbulent airflow, but not sure if this particular intake qualifies as it is really just a heat shield and filter. Some of their intakes for c5/c6 cars go over the top of the core support like stock.
06-16-2015, 09:15 PM
My LS needs cool air to breathe
