FiTech Go EFI Review
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07-06-2015, 03:21 PM
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
First - I am a good wrench turner but don't want to pretend that I am an expert. I am a guy who can pull an engine, diagnose most problems, and almost never lets anyone else work on my cars. BUT I am not a racer, a world class mechanic, or an engine builder so take my impressions for what they are worth. I will leave the technical reviews to someone else. Sooner or later a real "expert" will get one of these and they can break it all down.
Now on to the good stuff.....
I have put about 200 miles on the car since I did the install. So far everything is working perfectly. The car pulls through the power band much smoother and with far better throttle response than before. There is no lag when I punch the throttle. My favorite part is that I don't have the un-burnt fuel smell at idle that I had before. I won't specifically attribute that to EFI being better than carb. My old 1406 Edelbrock carb was decent but not perfect. I admit it might not have been the best carb for my motor but it worked reasonably well. I suspect a true expert could have tuned it better, or selected a better carb, but I believe I tuned it as well as most regular guys in their garage could have. Idle is still lopey but that is due to my cam. However, the idle is consistent and has never dropped out or stalled -- A big plus.
I have never really paid any attention to my MPG. For heaven's sake it is a corvette...who really cares how much gas it eats? However, I can attest to a significant improvement. With my carb I got about 200 miles per tank. I am now at 198 miles with just over 1/4 of a tank left. That is a remarkable improvement. I also have been pretty liberal with the gas pedal. I will be able to report actual MPG with the EFI and my engine when I fill up.
One of my biggest reasons for making the switch from carb was heat soak. After driving and letting it sit for more than 5-10 minutes the fuel was boiling out of my intake and fuel bowl and I had to crank it for 5-10 seconds to get it to fire up again. I had 1/2" spacer under the carb which helped a little but still had a problem with startup unless I opened the hood immediately after parking to let the heat out of the engine bay. With my L-48 hood I couldn't put a larger spacer in even with a drop base air cleaner. That was my primary reason for going EFI. No fuel bowl = nothing to boil out.
I did have one issue with hard starting my 2nd day of driving. It was minor but the engine would crank about 2 second before firing up. I called the manufacturer and he suggested opening up the butterflies up just a tiny bit to allow more air at idle. About 1/4 turn of the adjustment screw and that was solved. NOTE: Just the butterflies not the throttle side of the unit (there are two screws). The other suggestion he gave (only if the butterflies did not work) would have been to use the hand held and add a little more "pre-shot" of fuel on startup. My motor just wanted a little more air and I did not need to mess with the pre-shot. The car now starts warm or cold with just the slightest tap of the starter.
One more tidbit...When I had the manufacturer on the line I asked how long it takes for the unit to "learn?" I knew the unit learns forever but I wanted to know how long it takes to figure out most of the stuff. I was told it takes about 10 minutes for the vast majority of the learning. Fine tuning goes on forever. I had read in the FAST brand installation instructions that they had a procedure you went through to help it figure out a fuel map which involved several starts, stops, soft and hard acceleration. I am not sure how GoEFI does it faster.
With regard to the user controlled tuning features I have done nothing. You can change every single setting on the hand held unit or plug it into a laptop but I have not messed with any setting yet. Short of running this on a drag strip or doing something very exotic I really don't know what I would do to improve the tune. I will read up on stuff and may try to tweak it a little in the future.
Overall I am thrilled with the upgrade. For me, the EFI install was so simple and taking the headache out of tuning was worth every penny. Would a guy running his car on a drag strip or racetrack use it? I don't know. But for a 400HP daily driver I think it is ideal. To be fair, I suspect I would be just as happy with performance if I had bought a different EFI unit from a different manufacturer, but for less than half the price of the competitors I am REALLY happy!
06-22-2015, 10:08 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
Great write up.
I want this system, but it'll be a little more complicated on mine. It's an LT-1 car with no fuel return lines, so I might as well pull the tank and install a high pressure pump. That's something I have little interest in doing at the moment.
Keep us updated on how it drives, performance, gas mileage improvements, etc. Interesting how the idle smell improved so much.
I want this system, but it'll be a little more complicated on mine. It's an LT-1 car with no fuel return lines, so I might as well pull the tank and install a high pressure pump. That's something I have little interest in doing at the moment.
Keep us updated on how it drives, performance, gas mileage improvements, etc. Interesting how the idle smell improved so much.
06-22-2015, 12:47 PM
#4
Instructor
I'm glad to hear that everything on the install went smoothly. Hopefully mine will go that smoothly. I can't wait to get my kit now. 
Last edited by BrooksCJ; 06-22-2015 at 04:41 PM.
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anesthes (11-15-2015)
06-22-2015, 03:10 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I can only hear it if I put me ear right down next to the louver on the drivers side.
But...I have magnaflow 40's on true duals so the car isn't exactly quiet!
I expected to hear more out of the pump than I did. When I get bored with irritating the neighbors I might put some decent mufflers on. Then I will let you know!
But...I have magnaflow 40's on true duals so the car isn't exactly quiet!
I expected to hear more out of the pump than I did. When I get bored with irritating the neighbors I might put some decent mufflers on. Then I will let you know!
I know the feeling well. 
06-22-2015, 04:31 PM
#9
Race Director
Great write up and review. Makes me almost wish for the old school motor so I could do this swap on mine. Looking forward to reading more of your review.
06-22-2015, 06:53 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
, "phenolic" is the spelling.
06-22-2015, 10:48 PM
#11
Race Director
Now that the vapor canister is removed, how are you managing evaporative emissions and gas tank venting?
The vapor canister is designed to handle gasoline expanding and contracting as it warms up - now that you've added EFI to the equation you're going to create even more pressure variance in the gas tank.
Cool pics, btw.
The vapor canister is designed to handle gasoline expanding and contracting as it warms up - now that you've added EFI to the equation you're going to create even more pressure variance in the gas tank.
Cool pics, btw.
06-22-2015, 11:18 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Now that the vapor canister is removed, how are you managing evaporative emissions and gas tank venting?
The vapor canister is designed to handle gasoline expanding and contracting as it warms up - now that you've added EFI to the equation you're going to create even more pressure variance in the gas tank.
Cool pics, btw.
The vapor canister is designed to handle gasoline expanding and contracting as it warms up - now that you've added EFI to the equation you're going to create even more pressure variance in the gas tank.
Cool pics, btw.
Here is the layout of my fuel system:
From the fuel tank one steel line runs to a filter and then into the mechanical pump.
From the mech pump there are two lines. One returns fuel to the tank and the 2nd is the low pressure fuel line that runs to the command center (formerly to carb).
From the command center, there is a high pressure line to the efi unit.
Also, from the command center, there is a low pressure vacuum line that runs back to the top of the fuel tank which I assume is to vent gas fumes from the command center back to the tank.
For what it is worth, my vapor canister has not been hooked up for a year. No emissions stuff left on the car after the new motor. No cat, no egr, no air pump.
Do you forsee a problem with this setup? What am I missing? Do I need a vented fuel cap?
Obviously, I live in a state that has no emissions stuff! God bless Alaska!
06-23-2015, 01:02 AM
#13
Race Director
Was the vapor canister completely unhooked? or just unhooked from the carb?
My guess - you'll need at least a vented fuel cap - I've heard others have problems running EFI even with vented caps, but no immediate experience myself. Stock and stock replacement gas caps will be sealed. Unless, of course FITech has some provisioning in the command center(edit: see edit #2 below, they don't) to handle venting both ways - would be worth checking with them and seeing!
I would love to run something like the command center to minimize the amount of fuel plumbing I need to do when I eventually switch to EFI, but ultimately I'd like to decrease the complexity of the system - and not being able to find a place for the sump (since I will keep EVAP) makes it a pretty hard option to choose!
*edit*
I reviewed the instructions for FiTech's Command Center and while it stresses the importance of routing the vent line safely (back to the gas tank, since fuel vapor is explosive), it doesn't really say whether or not gas tank venting is needed. I would expect so - very curious to hear their thoughts on the subject, though.
*edit #2*
Taken from p3 of the 6/16/2015 rev of the EFI manual, looks like you need a vent.
A vented cap will have your garage smelling like fuel again - the charcoal canister is what prevents that.
My guess - you'll need at least a vented fuel cap - I've heard others have problems running EFI even with vented caps, but no immediate experience myself. Stock and stock replacement gas caps will be sealed. Unless, of course FITech has some provisioning in the command center(edit: see edit #2 below, they don't) to handle venting both ways - would be worth checking with them and seeing!
I would love to run something like the command center to minimize the amount of fuel plumbing I need to do when I eventually switch to EFI, but ultimately I'd like to decrease the complexity of the system - and not being able to find a place for the sump (since I will keep EVAP) makes it a pretty hard option to choose!
*edit*
I reviewed the instructions for FiTech's Command Center and while it stresses the importance of routing the vent line safely (back to the gas tank, since fuel vapor is explosive), it doesn't really say whether or not gas tank venting is needed. I would expect so - very curious to hear their thoughts on the subject, though.
*edit #2*
Originally Posted by FiTech Manual for EFI system
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Your fuel tank must have a vent to prevent pressure building up inside the tank.
A vented cap will have your garage smelling like fuel again - the charcoal canister is what prevents that.
Last edited by Shark Racer; 06-23-2015 at 01:18 AM.
06-23-2015, 02:07 AM
#14
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Was the vapor canister completely unhooked? or just unhooked from the carb?
My guess - you'll need at least a vented fuel cap - I've heard others have problems running EFI even with vented caps, but no immediate experience myself. Stock and stock replacement gas caps will be sealed. Unless, of course FITech has some provisioning in the command center(edit: see edit #2 below, they don't) to handle venting both ways - would be worth checking with them and seeing!
I would love to run something like the command center to minimize the amount of fuel plumbing I need to do when I eventually switch to EFI, but ultimately I'd like to decrease the complexity of the system - and not being able to find a place for the sump (since I will keep EVAP) makes it a pretty hard option to choose!
*edit*
I reviewed the instructions for FiTech's Command Center and while it stresses the importance of routing the vent line safely (back to the gas tank, since fuel vapor is explosive), it doesn't really say whether or not gas tank venting is needed. I would expect so - very curious to hear their thoughts on the subject, though.
*edit #2*
Taken from p3 of the 6/16/2015 rev of the EFI manual, looks like you need a vent.
A vented cap will have your garage smelling like fuel again - the charcoal canister is what prevents that.
My guess - you'll need at least a vented fuel cap - I've heard others have problems running EFI even with vented caps, but no immediate experience myself. Stock and stock replacement gas caps will be sealed. Unless, of course FITech has some provisioning in the command center(edit: see edit #2 below, they don't) to handle venting both ways - would be worth checking with them and seeing!
I would love to run something like the command center to minimize the amount of fuel plumbing I need to do when I eventually switch to EFI, but ultimately I'd like to decrease the complexity of the system - and not being able to find a place for the sump (since I will keep EVAP) makes it a pretty hard option to choose!
*edit*
I reviewed the instructions for FiTech's Command Center and while it stresses the importance of routing the vent line safely (back to the gas tank, since fuel vapor is explosive), it doesn't really say whether or not gas tank venting is needed. I would expect so - very curious to hear their thoughts on the subject, though.
*edit #2*
Taken from p3 of the 6/16/2015 rev of the EFI manual, looks like you need a vent.
A vented cap will have your garage smelling like fuel again - the charcoal canister is what prevents that.
Never a fuel smell when the car sat but keep in mind that 75 degrees is about as warm as we see it up here. Once in a great while we get to 80 but extremely rare. I suspect I will have minimal problems with a vented cap but for some in warmer places I can understand the concern.
I have no problem going with a vented cap if needed. Lots of stuff in the garage has vented tanks (snowmachines, motorcycles, ATV's etc.) and I have never had a problem. What do you guys in the warm places do with all your toys in the summer? Not thinking as much about the cars but the ATV's, bikes, and equipment?
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bludorbronc (12-04-2020)
06-23-2015, 10:09 AM
#15
Le Mans Master
I am no expert on this. Hopefully someone is and can clear it up.
Here is the layout of my fuel system:
From the fuel tank one steel line runs to a filter and then into the mechanical pump.
From the mech pump there are two lines. One returns fuel to the tank and the 2nd is the low pressure fuel line that runs to the command center (formerly to carb).
From the command center, there is a high pressure line to the efi unit.
Also, from the command center, there is a low pressure vacuum line that runs back to the top of the fuel tank which I assume is to vent gas fumes from the command center back to the tank.
For what it is worth, my vapor canister has not been hooked up for a year. No emissions stuff left on the car after the new motor. No cat, no egr, no air pump.
Do you forsee a problem with this setup? What am I missing? Do I need a vented fuel cap?
Obviously, I live in a state that has no emissions stuff! God bless Alaska!
Here is the layout of my fuel system:
From the fuel tank one steel line runs to a filter and then into the mechanical pump.
From the mech pump there are two lines. One returns fuel to the tank and the 2nd is the low pressure fuel line that runs to the command center (formerly to carb).
From the command center, there is a high pressure line to the efi unit.
Also, from the command center, there is a low pressure vacuum line that runs back to the top of the fuel tank which I assume is to vent gas fumes from the command center back to the tank.
For what it is worth, my vapor canister has not been hooked up for a year. No emissions stuff left on the car after the new motor. No cat, no egr, no air pump.
Do you forsee a problem with this setup? What am I missing? Do I need a vented fuel cap?
Obviously, I live in a state that has no emissions stuff! God bless Alaska!
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SpeedRacerMach (05-30-2017)
06-27-2015, 03:19 AM
#17
Drifting
Wery intresting!
06-27-2015, 10:38 AM
#19
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
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I'm positive the initial instructions said you could just route that vent connection down to the bottom of the car.
Now it says to run it to the tank vent, which I believe they mean T it into the vent, not close off the vent. The system is supposed to have a float to keep the tank from over-flowing so it should just be vapors like the vent would be. If you had a charcoal canister then it would vent both the tank and command center.
I'd be concerned what happened if that float ever stuck and want to ensure the vent would allow fuel to return to the tank in that case.
Now it says to run it to the tank vent, which I believe they mean T it into the vent, not close off the vent. The system is supposed to have a float to keep the tank from over-flowing so it should just be vapors like the vent would be. If you had a charcoal canister then it would vent both the tank and command center.
I'd be concerned what happened if that float ever stuck and want to ensure the vent would allow fuel to return to the tank in that case.
06-27-2015, 12:51 PM
#20
Race Director
Now it says to run it to the tank vent, which I believe they mean T it into the vent, not close off the vent. The system is supposed to have a float to keep the tank from over-flowing so it should just be vapors like the vent would be. If you had a charcoal canister then it would vent both the tank and command center
The best thing (for everyone) is to run a charcoal canister - you could probably leverage the carb float vent fitting for the CC or T it to the tank vent, either should work.
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SpeedRacerMach (05-30-2017)