Les

Gary is the "Kid's" dad.

claysmoker

Gary has done a couple of posi cases for me, and I have been really pleased with his work.

L-82kid

Im running a 12bolt with the works, 1480 axles kit, 6-link, offset t-arms, custom steel spring, qa1 shocks, long snubbers, safety loops, 1350 driveshaft joints with custom driveshaft, driveshaft loop and mark williams trans output yoke.
My father is Gary GTR1999, he set up the diff and rear bearings for me. I had to cut and re-glass the rear compartments to fit the 1480s. I actually have more money invested into the rear end parts then i do into the rest of car combined. Lol

L-82kid

Here are some pictures i snapped today.. i want to do a roll cage this fall. And im swapping to 15x10 wheels and some 28x10.5x15 stiff wall mickey thompsons slicks.

claysmoker

Im running a 12bolt with the works, 1480 axles kit, 6-link, offset t-arms, custom steel spring, qa1 shocks, long snubbers, safety loops, 1350 driveshaft joints with custom driveshaft, driveshaft loop and mark williams trans output yoke.
My father is Gary GTR1999, he set up the diff and rear bearings for me. I had to cut and re-glass the rear compartments to fit the 1480s. I actually have more money invested into the rear end parts then i do into the rest of car combined. Lol[/QUOTE]

I figured you had something really stout if you were pushing that much power through it, but we both know the stock unit would have gone BOOM by now!

Tell your Dad that Dave from Nevada said hello. He did my steering box along with a couple of posi cases in years past. He does first class work.

bluedawg

Did Prosystems need to do anything to the carb for it to work with the roots? If so what did they do?

L-82kid

I will let him know. Glad to know you're happy with his work.

L-82kid

I ordered the prosystem about 3 years ago. They asked for all motor specs, weight, gearing, etc..the whole 9 yards about car and they were going to built a custom matched carb for my application. They did not make the carb boost referenced because they said it wasn't needed.

I ended up with a 4150hp 785cfm with following specs.


Idle Air Bleeds 0.070
High Speed Air Bleeds 0.031
Squirter size 40.000
pump cam color pink
pump cam num #330
Idle Feed Restrictor 0.033
Primary jets 74.000
Secondary jets 84.000
power vavle primary 6.500
acc pump 30cc


When I first bolted it on, the motor felt a like soggy and under powered from normal. I ended up re-jetting it to from 74 mains to 78 and from 84 sec to 92. I keep jetting up and it kept making more power. So it was not perfect right out of box. But once I got it dailed in i've had no issues with it. I questioned the 785cfm because I figured i could go bigger around 850-950cfm but pro-system insisted on keeping it at 785cfm.

chevymans 77

Kid If you don't mind I got a few questions about your car?

I'm modifying my fuel system to handle around a 250 to 300 HP nitrous shot. I see you ran a new fuel line using the push-lock hose and fittings. How did you get the new line form the rear of the car to the front? My concerns are crossing over the half shafts. From your pics I see only one fuel pump and two regulators, are you running your fuel system with dead headed regulators and how is it working out with your new power levels? What brand nitrous kit are you using and what type plate (spray bars or non-spray bars)?

sorry for all the questions,

Thanks Neal

L-82kid

Will you be spraying it with a fogger or plate kit, single stag or dual?

For a 250-300hp shot you may want to do a dedicated nitrous fuel system (stand alone fuel system). Like a small 1 gallon fuel cell, mounted in engine bay, with its own fuel pump and regulator. I would wire the nitrous fuel pump to nitrous system arm switch, so when you arm the system the pump is on and ready to go for when you hit it. Doing it this way will allow to run race gas in 1 gallon for spray, and then pump gas in regular tank for motor.


For mine I started with a 15gallon fuel cell with sump, aeromotive fuel pump that is suppose to support 750hp, -10an feed to aeromotive deadhead reg. I went with the rubber push lok style hose and fittings because it was alot cheaper then braided line. I run hose up over frame and down between inside frame rail and body. i pretty much followed the stock hard line path. I removed the stock line and used -10an hose clamps in the stock holes for original line clamps. the hose isnt near the halfshafts.

When I added my nitrous kit, i was considering doing a stand alone system but ended up just buying a magna fuel log and adding a 2nd deadhead reg to fuel the Nitrous system. I figured with my current pump and big -10an feed I would be good for a 150hp.

I'm running an Induction Solutions "saturday night special" kit. It is a single stag regular style spray bar plate, just like an Edelbrock RPM kit, NX kit, NOS, etc. The owner of Induction Solutions is one of best nitrous tuners in country, they mostly do big power kits for high dollar race cars. But every kit is flowed and jetted for the customers needs, its not just a generic jetting. Mine came with detail instructions and tune ups for 75, 100, 150,200,250,325hp. The customer service is great, you can call the owner of the company anytime of day even weekends and he will personally answer and help you out.
http://inductionsolutions.com/

I also have inducition solutions nitrous fuel flow tool to set my nitrous fuel reg. I disconnect the line from reg to fuel solenoid, hook up my flow tool, turn on pump, and set my reg. I run 6.5psi on nitrous fuel. For motor reg, i run 7.5psi. My AFR stay safe and i never see a fuel pressure drop. But if i did go to a bigger shot of nitrous I would def change to a stand alone fuel set up.

bottle pressure is important as well, you will need a good quality heater. But dont the waste money on one with a temp controller on it because they all seem to fail.

Also sparkplugs are important, with nitrous you need a colder and tighter gapped plug then NA. the first couple times you spray you should have fresh plugs so you can pull them and get a good look at burn mark. I run NGK plugs heat range 8, ngk are suppose to be more forgiving and easier to read then other brands.

If you look at the IS webpage i posted theres some good info on there. I actually called them with a bunch of questions before i decided to buy the kit.

chevymans 77

Looking to run a plate kit more than likely 2 stage to soften the hit.

I'm running a Mallory 5250 (250 gph pump) which should support the near 1000 HP I'll see. Mallory recommends 5/8" lines both supply and return using a return style regulator. I added a sump to my tank with 2 1/2" fittings and lines supplying the fuel pump.

I run NGK plugs already as they have been the only plug to hold up for any length of time in this engine.

Thanks for the info, I'll look at the IS web page

Neal

bluedawg

Real similar to the specs on my.prosystems 780 dp.