Some random underhood temperatures from IR gun
07-05-2015, 10:33 AM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2002
Location: Lebanon Township New Jersey
Posts: 5,005
Received 706 Likes
on
401 Posts
Some random underhood temperatures from IR gun
For what it's worth, I recorded some temperatures while my engine was running at idle, thoroughly warmed up after 15 mile drive, temperature on gage in the car at about 180, outside air about 80 degrees. Here is what I found:
top of radiator 172
top rad hose 170
lower rad hose 161
water pump 154
front of head 190
tstat housing 165
intake manifold plenum 165
intake manifold at head 163
header tube at head 357
header collector 230
fuel S hose before pump 145
fuel return hose 152
trans cooler supply hose 161
trans cooler return hose 138
Some numbers are inconsistent, like intake plenum warmer than the runner at the head, and high fuel hose temps - but I am just reporting the data.
A little background on the car: mild 383 sbc, iron heads, 4 row copper/brass radiator, all seals in place, stock shroud and clutch fan, Moroso aluminum low flow water pump, 180 tstat, TH350 trans
top of radiator 172
top rad hose 170
lower rad hose 161
water pump 154
front of head 190
tstat housing 165
intake manifold plenum 165
intake manifold at head 163
header tube at head 357
header collector 230
fuel S hose before pump 145
fuel return hose 152
trans cooler supply hose 161
trans cooler return hose 138
Some numbers are inconsistent, like intake plenum warmer than the runner at the head, and high fuel hose temps - but I am just reporting the data.
A little background on the car: mild 383 sbc, iron heads, 4 row copper/brass radiator, all seals in place, stock shroud and clutch fan, Moroso aluminum low flow water pump, 180 tstat, TH350 trans
07-05-2015, 12:57 PM
#2
Safety Car
For what it's worth, I recorded some temperatures while my engine was running at idle, thoroughly warmed up after 15 mile drive, temperature on gage in the car at about 180, outside air about 80 degrees. Here is what I found:
top of radiator 172
top rad hose 170
lower rad hose 161
water pump 154
front of head 190
tstat housing 165
intake manifold plenum 165
intake manifold at head 163
header tube at head 357
header collector 230
fuel S hose before pump 145
fuel return hose 152
trans cooler supply hose 161
trans cooler return hose 138
Some numbers are inconsistent, like intake plenum warmer than the runner at the head, and high fuel hose temps - but I am just reporting the data.
A little background on the car: mild 383 sbc, iron heads, 4 row copper/brass radiator, all seals in place, stock shroud and clutch fan, Moroso aluminum low flow water pump, 180 tstat, TH350 trans
top of radiator 172
top rad hose 170
lower rad hose 161
water pump 154
front of head 190
tstat housing 165
intake manifold plenum 165
intake manifold at head 163
header tube at head 357
header collector 230
fuel S hose before pump 145
fuel return hose 152
trans cooler supply hose 161
trans cooler return hose 138
Some numbers are inconsistent, like intake plenum warmer than the runner at the head, and high fuel hose temps - but I am just reporting the data.
A little background on the car: mild 383 sbc, iron heads, 4 row copper/brass radiator, all seals in place, stock shroud and clutch fan, Moroso aluminum low flow water pump, 180 tstat, TH350 trans
thanks ...surprised the radiator didn't do much while the trans cooler did better
so who needs a radiator?
Last edited by slickfx3; 07-05-2015 at 01:06 PM.
07-05-2015, 01:45 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
Another temp that warrants scrutiny (perhaps more than any other within the engine compartment as long as everything else is nominal) is that of the air charge going into the induction system, and which is likely going to be somewhere among those other numbers without an isolated CAI. You might also check the HVAC box near the exhaust at #8, as that's a quite vulnerable area for heat getting into the cabin. My $.02, FWIW...
07-05-2015, 02:19 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2002
Location: Lebanon Township New Jersey
Posts: 5,005
Received 706 Likes
on
401 Posts
Actually the trans cooler heats up some of the air crossing the radiator so that might explain some of that. Also, if the engine was running hotter, say at 210, the radiator would take more heat out since the difference between coolant temp and ambient air temp would be greater. But I was expecting a bigger difference also.
07-05-2015, 02:25 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2002
Location: Lebanon Township New Jersey
Posts: 5,005
Received 706 Likes
on
401 Posts
Another temp that warrants scrutiny (perhaps more than any other within the engine compartment as long as everything else is nominal) is that of the air charge going into the induction system, and which is likely going to be somewhere among those other numbers without an isolated CAI. You might also check the HVAC box near the exhaust at #8, as that's a quite vulnerable area for heat getting into the cabin. My $.02, FWIW...
07-05-2015, 05:07 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
It would surprise me somewhat if the air inducted by a proper CAI wasn't a good 30-40* cooler than that within the engine bay at full temp, resulting in higher A/F charge density and increasing the fuel's effective MON (the more important octane rating).
In any event, were my shark up and running I'd love to log some supporting data directly relative to our cars so as to better illustrate the impact, or lack thereof, had by a CAI system such as the L88 cowl induction setup; in particular on intake air temps and pressures.
Donations to the cause gratefully accepted.
In any event, were my shark up and running I'd love to log some supporting data directly relative to our cars so as to better illustrate the impact, or lack thereof, had by a CAI system such as the L88 cowl induction setup; in particular on intake air temps and pressures.
Donations to the cause gratefully accepted.
07-05-2015, 05:34 PM
#7
D:S ratio 8:1 would read the square area of 1" square from a distance of 8"
eg a hose that is 3/4" and using a 8:1 D:S ratio unit. You would need to get a reading within 4".
Then the next problem is the surface shape and color. IR work best with a flat black color. The hotter the temp the more noticable color variation is.
Then the accuracy of the mounted laser pointer. Some point left / right / higher / lower than where the sensor is reading.
The laser pointer is not used for the reading of the temp. Just something to aim with.
But having all those readings is great for a base line, when you take the readings in the future you can compare changes. This will always be very accurate for comparision.
For silver shinny surfaces I usually place a 2" square of black tape on the surface to get my readings.
07-05-2015, 09:20 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2002
Location: Lebanon Township New Jersey
Posts: 5,005
Received 706 Likes
on
401 Posts
Depending on your unit and the D:S Ratio small area's are difficult to get good readings.
D:S ratio 8:1 would read the square area of 1" square from a distance of 8"
eg a hose that is 3/4" and using a 8:1 D:S ratio unit. You would need to get a reading within 4".
Then the next problem is the surface shape and color. IR work best with a flat black color. The hotter the temp the more noticable color variation is.
Then the accuracy of the mounted laser pointer. Some point left / right / higher / lower than where the sensor is reading.
The laser pointer is not used for the reading of the temp. Just something to aim with.
But having all those readings is great for a base line, when you take the readings in the future you can compare changes. This will always be very accurate for comparision.
For silver shinny surfaces I usually place a 2" square of black tape on the surface to get my readings.
D:S ratio 8:1 would read the square area of 1" square from a distance of 8"
eg a hose that is 3/4" and using a 8:1 D:S ratio unit. You would need to get a reading within 4".
Then the next problem is the surface shape and color. IR work best with a flat black color. The hotter the temp the more noticable color variation is.
Then the accuracy of the mounted laser pointer. Some point left / right / higher / lower than where the sensor is reading.
The laser pointer is not used for the reading of the temp. Just something to aim with.
But having all those readings is great for a base line, when you take the readings in the future you can compare changes. This will always be very accurate for comparision.
For silver shinny surfaces I usually place a 2" square of black tape on the surface to get my readings.
09-11-2015, 02:14 PM
#9
Generally speaking, where's the best/most accurate place on the engine to shoot temperature with a heat gun?
My temperature gauge registers too low, even in bumper to bumper traffic on hot summer days (outside temperature above 90). It never really gets above the 1/4 dash, and generally in between that and 100. The needle doesnt do anything erratic; goes up slowly from a cold start but hardly ever gets to the 1/4 line.
The connection between the green wire and the temperature sensor is not very solid at all. I keep monkeying around with it, and once managed to get the gauge to register up to 210 in a very hot day after a seriously long idle, but only lasted a bit. Green wire also has a tiny burn-through of the plastic. And for what it's worth, Im pretty sure I have a 160 thermostat in there.
Thx
My temperature gauge registers too low, even in bumper to bumper traffic on hot summer days (outside temperature above 90). It never really gets above the 1/4 dash, and generally in between that and 100. The needle doesnt do anything erratic; goes up slowly from a cold start but hardly ever gets to the 1/4 line.
The connection between the green wire and the temperature sensor is not very solid at all. I keep monkeying around with it, and once managed to get the gauge to register up to 210 in a very hot day after a seriously long idle, but only lasted a bit. Green wire also has a tiny burn-through of the plastic. And for what it's worth, Im pretty sure I have a 160 thermostat in there.
Thx
09-11-2015, 10:09 PM
#10
Generally speaking, where's the best/most accurate place on the engine to shoot temperature with a heat gun?
My temperature gauge registers too low, even in bumper to bumper traffic on hot summer days (outside temperature above 90). It never really gets above the 1/4 dash, and generally in between that and 100. The needle doesnt do anything erratic; goes up slowly from a cold start but hardly ever gets to the 1/4 line.
The connection between the green wire and the temperature sensor is not very solid at all. I keep monkeying around with it, and once managed to get the gauge to register up to 210 in a very hot day after a seriously long idle, but only lasted a bit. Green wire also has a tiny burn-through of the plastic. And for what it's worth, Im pretty sure I have a 160 thermostat in there.
Thx
My temperature gauge registers too low, even in bumper to bumper traffic on hot summer days (outside temperature above 90). It never really gets above the 1/4 dash, and generally in between that and 100. The needle doesnt do anything erratic; goes up slowly from a cold start but hardly ever gets to the 1/4 line.
The connection between the green wire and the temperature sensor is not very solid at all. I keep monkeying around with it, and once managed to get the gauge to register up to 210 in a very hot day after a seriously long idle, but only lasted a bit. Green wire also has a tiny burn-through of the plastic. And for what it's worth, Im pretty sure I have a 160 thermostat in there.
Thx