doorgunner

No test drive yet....I started the car today.....found one fuel leak---tightened the fitting and checked/re-set the timing now that the distributor is working correctly.

The regulator was set for max pressure/9psi which caused the car to run as though the choke had closed (the air plenum was removed...the choke was fully opened).

I adjusted the pressure down slowly and midway the engine idled smoothly.

It starts well now in about two engine revolutions cold or hot.....no more constant cranking with the accelerator to the floor.

There is visible fuel return to the tank....all is well.


I will make any future posts in my build thread.

Big2Bird

4 lbs is more than enough.

doorgunner

Would you have any idea why the engine was surging slightly up and down 50 RPM.....could it have been because I didn't re-adjust the idle air screws after I made the modification?

The regulator will only go down to 4.5 psi.....I'll adjust it down tomorrow before the test drive.

Thanks.

Big2Bird

Check that timing at idle is steady. Too light a spring, and it can start to move too early.

There are other things. Guys will chime in.

Peterbuilt

You might have two much 'total' timing.

Got any timing numbers that you could post?

doorgunner

It's steady/no movement........but I forgot to notice if it "jumps" when the rpm is bumped up a couple hundred.

I'll see tomorrow/Thanks.





I just checked today:

14* base timing/vacuum advance hose plugged.

Add 14* for mechanical advance at 3000 rpm = 28*.

Add 14* (full advance with manifold vacuum) to the 28 = 42*



It quit surging after I adjusted the idle air screws

Danish Shark

What are you using for a safety switch for the electric fuel pump? Oil pressure switch?

Big2Bird

Base is fine, but 3000rpm should be closer to 36*

Blip the throttle at 3000, and see if your all in or not.

SinfulC3

Is anyone else amazed that his hood will close with that setup?
I have a tiny air filter until I can find a good drop base just because there is NO ROOM under the hood and adding my spacer under the carb did not help the situation.

I will say that the car is much easier to start now. However, I notice that fuel will slowly drain out of my filter too (day or two and it will be dry). Guess I need to get on with my plans of replacing the fuel pump. After all, I purchased it already and it's just sitting there waiting for me to install it. This was just the motivation I needed. Thanks DG!

doorgunner

You could buy a 3 psi in-line one-way fuel check valve and install it before the fuel pump.....if the pump check valve ever fails, the inline valve will always hold fuel in the line to keep the system primed up to the carb.

Naaaaaaaaaa! Too much trouble....... Bolt on the new pump!