Matty Gritt

Just went out to look. I took a picture but it didn't come out to good. Gonna go back out and take another. What I see it the red, black, and tan wires all go into the connector. One section of the connector is just blank. No wire goes into it.

EDIT: Here's the picture

lionelhutz

Yes, that is how the connector should look. Now, can you verify where the wires connect to the other parts.

riverracer au

i bought the B&M speed controller, added the brake switch, vacuum switch and a delay timer.
i had connected the internal 4th gear pressure switch, but had a few problems getting it to work correctly.
so for now i have bypassed it and allow it to lock in 2nd, 3rd, ad 4th.

the brake switch drops it off when brakes are applied.
the vacuum switch drops the lockup when engine load increases.
the 10sec timer is so that it stops hunting as vacuum stabilises with the extra 200rpm drop.

page 6 of my "fiddly bits" thread shows how i wired my setup.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ly-bits-6.html

scrappy76

My 89 s10 is a carbd motor and not wired anymore for the 700r4 to lock up so I installed a pressure switch off the 4th port on the tranny, then to a power source and then a lighted toggle switch on the dash. bought all the part individually, total cost was about 28.00 I turn the overdrive on when its needed, then off when not. It is wired where even if I have to stop instantly, the converter will unlock before I stop.

toobroketoretire

Yeah, I also used an inexpensive 15 psi pressure switch screwed into the 4th servo pressure tap then sent a single 18 gauge wire up and over the top of the transmission case and into the left side plug; where that wire goes to the solenoid (that is grounded). It automatically locks in 4th and unlocks when it downshifts out of 4th. As I am running a 454" I didn't use a kill switch in the cabin.

Matty Gritt

Thank you all for the input, I have a lot of confidence to tackle this myself now. One quick thing before I go out and do this all...

I am going to wire it into my brake lights. So I will be splicing into my brake light wire and bringing a new wire to the positive red wire in the tranmission plug pin. I think it's pin A. There will be no other wires coming out of it, correct? It doesn't need a ground correct?

Or should I take the black wire going into my transmission plug and feed it out to the frame for ground? Nothing goes to my tan(brown) wire?

lionelhutz

What you are proposing simply won't work....

#1 - The brake power is on when the brakes are pressed which is backwards because you want power when the brakes are not pressed. Hence why people are suggesting replacing the brake switch with a different switch.

#2 - The way your transmission is presently wired, what you are proposing will lock in 2-4th gear all the time and you'll quickly find it miserable to drive. I double checked and power to the solenoid will lock the TCC in all gears but 1st.

You never clarified your wiring. You said the black went to the connector, solenoid, temp switch and 4th gear switch. This makes no sense because that would always lock the TCC in 4th gear and with an EFI application the TCC is controlled by the PCM, not pressure switched. Also, in your picture it looks like the black only goes to the connector, solenoid and top terminal of the temperature switch. It appears the tan goes to the bottom terminal of the temperature switch and the 4th gear pressure switch.

I think you could jumper the black and tan wires to only lock the TCC in 4th gear. You could do it externally at the connector. Once again, this could be confirmed if you clarified the wiring.

Matty Gritt

Oh I see, yes I was off! I would like to have the TC unlock when I hit the breaks when it is locked up in fourth gear. I still want that. But before, I went out and took some pictures and looked at the wiring. I should've clarified earlier. I actually found some new things out. Here are the pictures:

Here is what I believe to be the temperature switch, it actually has 4 wires going into it. 2 Black, 1 DarkGreen/Blue(?), and the 1 Tan wire.

Here is another picture showing the same switch with the green/blue wire going to what I'm assuming is the 4th gear pressure switch.


The tan and one black wire go up to the plug connector inside the transmission along with the red wire from the solenoid. Here is the picture I posted earlier
Attachment 48366455

The other black wire goes directly to the solenoid along with the red wire.


Here is a picture showing a good majority of my valve body. I can see all the wires here. Still not sure what most do, but I'm hoping you guys can help me a bit further.


That is my valve body and all the wires. I'm still pretty confused how to wire it up going from the inside the car to the plug in the transmission. Once I understand it, I'll be fine. Dude, also, I appreciate the help you are giving me so much. You're making this a lot less stressful for me trying to do it! Oh also, here is my brake light switch for reference.

I have cruise control. It is currently not hooked up/working in my car. I have a red and pink wire going to the top two terminals and a plug with an orange and white wire going to the bottom two terminals.

lionelhutz

Connect the black and tan wires together and then power the red wire. That should lock it in 4th gear only.

The top wires on the switch are for the cruise. I think the red is ignition power but you should check to make sure. If it is, then remove the orange wire and run a wire from that terminal to the transmission.

Matty Gritt

Lionelhutz you are the best man, thanks! Just went outside and checked my red wire. With ignition on I have power going to that red wire. So I will remove my orange wire from the terminal completely and run a new wire from that terminal to my transmission. I just ordered a plug so I can plug it in easily to the granny. Thanks for the help!

speedreed8

orange and white go to brake lights. orange is hot all the time.i wouldnt mess with these wires.
pink is ign. power. , Red went to cruise control engage switch. use the red wire+ to the trans.
when you touch the brake pedal it will disengage the lockup. thats how i did my 200-4R
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/tune.../index21.shtml

lionelhutz

Did you measure for power on the red wire with the switch connected or disconnected? If you checked with the switch connected then disconnect it to find the wire that has power with the ignition switch on.

hugie82

I didn't read every word of this thread but I can tell you that the corvette 700r4 has different wiring going into the transmission. I tried a camaro shift improver plug and play adapter. It fits but each of the 4 wires are located different for the original corvette trans in 1982-84 . I would suspect you're this far into it and probably know but I thought I would throw it out there.

lionelhutz

It's a late model TBI transmission being put into a 78 Corvette. No need to worry about how the original 82-84 Corvette 700R4's are wired.

Matty Gritt

Okay so I shouldn't mess with the orange wires? To clarify, when you say red to the transmission you mean to splice into the original red wire on my brake light switch with a new wire feeding to the transmission plug, correct?
Hmm not so sure, I went to the car, turned the ignition to "ON" and then checked for power at the red wire and it had 12v. I didn't depress the brake pedal. Not sure but is that what you mean by connected or disconnected?

EDIT: Okay, sorry for sounding like a COMPLETE idiot but I think I finally understand how to wire this thing in. Went outside again to check. Put my voltage tester on the red wire once again. Set ignition to "ON" and I had voltage. Depressed brake pedal and instantly no voltage. I feel so stupid for not understanding something that seems so simple. Thank you all for being patient with me.