Oldguard 7

In my Brakes.....These Brakes post I have a brake pedal that goes to the floor and the vehicle will not stop. I replaced my left rear brake caliper because it was leaking the brake pads were wet on the left rear so I replaced the rear brake pads.
I used a motive power bleeder to bleed the rear brakes. When I opened the bleeder on the LR side fluid came out of the inner and inner bleeder fluid came out in a trickle instead of a stream when under pressure. Fluid from the outer bleeder came out in a trickle as well. I pumped the power bleeder between 20-25psi IAW the service manual. No fluid came out of any of the bleeders on the right rear caliper. I then went to the front and opened the bleeder, no fluid from either caliper. The master cylinder was full (I did siphon out some fluid prior to placing the bleeder onto it)
I did drive the vehicle two blocks at a slow speed and applied the brakes pedal went straight to the floor and I then heard a clunk from the LR side as I applied the brakes. what could this possibly be? I'm pretty frustrated now because I do not know what the hell this could be
anyone ever experience this? any suggestions comments please

mortgageguy

i would think you either have a major blockage coming out of your mc (which I doubt) or the motive wasn't working properly. I would start on the right rear and try to get something out of it. It is farthest from your mc. I've always bled rr,lr, rf then lf.
I guess a major failure of your mc could happen, but, that would be highly coincidental with the replacement of the caliper. Were the brakes working good prior to replacing the caliper?

cagotzmann

Remove the cover on the master cylinder and slowly press on the brake. You should see a fountain of fluid pushing up in the front chamber. If you get fluid pushing up, then try bleeding just using the pedal pumping method. Once you can get a streem of fluid flowing then try the motive unit again. If the pedal goes hard and no fluid then something may be wrong with the master cylinder (not likly since it was working before the caliper swap.) or something blocking the fluid path.

If you get nothing then you may have air in the master cylinder. I would then try to slowly move the pedal in and out 5 or 6 times to see if anything changes.

doorgunner

Corvette brakes can be a PAIN to bleed sometimes.

If the master cylinder has ever run out of fluid in one of the bowls, it needs to be bled with the 2 main brake lines disconnected from it until all the air is worked out (it took 20 minutes for me to bleed my '68 master cylinder/a two-person job if it is bled while still bolted to the firewall).

toobroketoretire

The early C3's had an adjustable master cylinder push rod and its possible your push rod needs to be shortened a turn or two. Then when rust builds up behind the rear piston the rust will often prevent the piston from fully retracting which prevents bleeding the brakes. When you slowly depress your brake pedal you should feel the clearance in your booster THEN some clearance between the push rod and the rear piston (about 1/4" of pedal travel). If you don't feel that "second" clearance your rear piston isn't fully retracting.