Maymyvetteliveforevr

Details,

Car has been sitting for 26 years, last time the motor has been started was 6-10 years ago, can't remember. After the motor was started the oil was drained and the oil pan gasket was replaced but new engine oil was not added so the engine has been dry for all those years. Fuel tank is empty.

Suggestion;

Remove spark plugs add WD40 to each cylinder and install new plugs.
Add a bit of engine oil down carburetor.
Add new engine oil (20W50)
Remove the distributor and prime the oil for 30 seconds and reinstall distributor.
Crank engine one full turn by hand.
Add fresh fuel.
Start motor which may crank for several seconds before starting due to amount of time for new fuel to reach pump.


Any other suggestions as I will attempt this end of next week.

bashcraft

Don't install the new plugs until after you've primed the oil pressure and cranked it over.

Don't do this.

Use 10W30.

Use the correct priming tool.

Put the new plugs in now.

Easy Mike

Does the engine turn over by hand? Any left over gunk in the carburetor? If so, the carb will need a cleaning.

69Vett

if you can not turn the motor over by hand, you need to stop.
I suspect you cannot if its been sitting 10-20 years
you expect a carb. to work after sitting for how long 6-10-20 years ?

gas tank & lines, brakes.
your just asking for lots of trouble down the road,
without complete inspection and repairs,
I would tear the engine down, inspect and rebuild... new bearings, rings, and seals.

vette_jim

I keep a squeeze bottle handy (like the ketchup /mustard bottles you saw in restaurants years ago...get at Wal-Mart home section.... clear polyethylene ) with a SMALL amount of fresh fuel inside. I open the choke plate with my finger and squirt in about a tablespoon of fuel. Car always starts right up if its been sitting for a few weeks. Saves wear and tear on starter and battery. ALWAYS HAVE AIR CLEANER IN PLACE BEFORE YOU START THE ENGINE AND DON'T DO THIS ON A HOT ENGINE.

flyeri

As 69Vette says there may well be more to it than you think, especially the carb and ignition. If I was dead set on trying to turn it I would spray WD-40 in the cylinders, trying to spray as much of the cylinder walls as possible. Do this daily for a couple days. Pull the valve covers and see what the rockers look like and see what you can see of the cam. Then, if all that looks ok, add the proper amount of 10w30 oil. Try to pour down drain holes in the heads to get cam and lifters wet. Then, with the correct primer check for oil flow out of each push rod. If that happens continue priming for a couple minutes I would then try to turn the engine over by hand. Do not stop priming. If it turns at all stop and add a little more WD-40 and move it some more. Continue this process for several revolutions stopping it at 10 degrees BTDC. I would not try to start it until I had a good working carb and distributor that you know will work. Also change the oil and filter before starting as well as flushing out the cooling system. You will probably need new wires as well as plugs. You may still have to rebuild it right away or you may get to drive it for a while. Just because you get it to run there is still a lot to do to make it safe and road worthy, hoses, brakes, other fluids, and filters, just to name a few.

Maymyvetteliveforevr

Thanks for all the replies.

I did turn the engine over by accident when installing the harmonic balancer with the impact gun and it turned over ever so slightly, (without oil) so I stopped.

No oil down the carb............ok.

Install new plugs after initial start up............ok.

10W30..............ok.

Carb has a vacuum leak last time I started it many years ago so I got it rebuilt.

Air cleaner installed.........ok

Rockers look clean.

WD40 over a couple days.

I have the correct priming tool.

New wires installed today.

New oil filter

New cooling system including rad.




Thanks everyone.

cv67

Was going to recommend fresh gaskets on the carb maybe even the wp/thermo but may be overkill. Prime, fill the float bowls with gas so its not grinding over and over. Fire it up
(make sure you have a good brake pedal first)

Maymyvetteliveforevr

Thanks for the reply cuisinartvette, carb has been rebuilt by Lars and wp has been replaced along with thermostat gasket.

All new stainless brake lines, master cylinder and fluid.

mike48750

I usually put fuel in the float bowl through the vent on top of the carb, I use an old fuel bulb from my R/C flying days. I like them to run on their own when started. Also remember the cam lobes are lubed by splash/spray and drip so keep the RPMs up when you start it. Mike

bashcraft

Install the new plugs after priming the oil pressure and turning it over by hand. You don't want them soaked with WD40.

Earlier this year I tore apart an engine that had not been started since 1992. It ended up being in perfect condition and would've started right up with a battery and some gas.

DonnieP73

Mine also sat from 1992 until I began the restoration in Dec. 2011.
The only thing I did different is that I used Marvel Mystery Oil instead
of WD 40. Let it sit for about a week, then turned over by hand.
It was free and after replacing or rebuilding carb, fuel pump, coil,
and such, after reinstalling, it fired right up.


This is how it looked when I removed it then after reinstalled.







Donnie

lionelhutz

So many alarmists around here. Tearing down the engine or soaking with WD40 for days is not needed. I personally have doubts that WD40 is any help in protecting the cylinders or rings. A bit of oil (like a teaspoon) and turning it over a few revolutions to spread it around would be much better if you must do something to protect the cylinders before starting.

Personally, I would prime the oil, fill the fuel bowl on the carb and fire it up. Bring the RPM's up to 2k or so for a few minutes.

Make sure the oil you use is suitable for a flat tappet cam. With a new cam, I would keep idling to a minimum until it's been driven for a few 100 miles just as I would bring up the rpm's on the first start when it's been sitting in storage. Just personal preferences.

The bigger thing is to make sure you're really ready. Double and triple check fuel lines. Double check that you're on TDC cylinder #1 when dropping in the distributor and setting the initial position. Double check the plug wires. Double check the oil pressure sensor just behind the intake. Double check the mechanical stuff like throttle linkage, engine mounting, transmission linkage. Double check the wiring. Double check the transmission fluid. If it's an auto have a funnel and fluid ready to top it up once the engine is running. I'm sure there are other things to double check I'm missing.

MotorHead

Hey Frank, cool, starting the engine, does that mean it's gonna be on the road soon.

One thing, get a real small funnel and fill the front float bowl through the breather tube, that way you press on the gas and you will get gas coming in from immediately the squirters.

If need some moral support send me your address via email: motorhead007@rogers.com

Wayne

TimAT

I started a BBC that had set for close to 20 years. New oil and filter, primed the oil system like no tomorrow, dropped the distributor in and cranked it up. I bet it didn't turn over more than a dozen times. No oil into the cylinders, no new plugs, nothing but fresh oil.

lionelhutz

About 20 years ago, I started a 400 small block that had sat in a wagon in a back yard for probably around 10 years. I blew-up the tires, hooked the fuel pump up to a small gas tank and then squirted some gas down the carb and fired it up before driving it out of the hole it was in. I then pulled the engine and stuck it into anther car I was driving and it ran great, the carb worked perfectly and didn't burn a drop of oil. I did no carb work, no changing the plugs, no priming the oil. Heck, I didn't even change the oil until 4 or 5 months after the swap. As long as it doesn't seize, an engine is very resilient.

Many people will say it's just luck, but I've never had any trouble with E10 gas either. The only times I've had to fix issues with E10 was after someone else used a fuel stabilizer in their stuff.