Anyone with XCH experience?
#1
Anyone with XCH experience?
Father in law passed away before I ever had a chance to met him, from wife and mother in law stories he would have been a blast to hang out with. He bought a 1973 coupe 454 4sp car brand new. The story goes one year later he decided the car wasn't fast enough so he came home with a new engine for the car which he installed in the garage. i have the car running again but have been trying to figure out what I have. VIN number says it is an original Big Block car. Then I found the "XCH" on the front passenger side block ID plate.
trying to find some tech specs like cam grind and lash settings. Opinions on octane requirements. I used 100LL (airplane gas) to wake it up from its long slumber. But never planned to use it long term.
Anyone have a lot of experience with this motor?
Thanks
Buck
trying to find some tech specs like cam grind and lash settings. Opinions on octane requirements. I used 100LL (airplane gas) to wake it up from its long slumber. But never planned to use it long term.
Anyone have a lot of experience with this motor?
Thanks
Buck
#2
Le Mans Master
I have some. The XCH code was a over the counter crate engine- 454/460 aka. LS-7.
I have all the specs at home- but what I remember- 12.25:1 compression, cam was something like .590/.600. Engine shipped from the plant with a red tag stating to use a minimum 103 octane gas.
I just pulled it out of my 69 to make room for a new pump gas friendly motor.
I have all the specs at home- but what I remember- 12.25:1 compression, cam was something like .590/.600. Engine shipped from the plant with a red tag stating to use a minimum 103 octane gas.
I just pulled it out of my 69 to make room for a new pump gas friendly motor.
#4
I had a hangar at the local airport which is where I was working on it. Used 100LL to get it started because, well it was right there. After I got it running decent enough to get out on the road I filled it up with NO ethanol 89 Octane. It was not happy with that fuel and thats when I started investigating the numbers on the motor to see what I have. I did find some info on the 12.25 to 1 but have been unlucky on other specs. Trying to get some lash numbers now, the cold lash seems too loose at average .030
The 103 octane only tag is believable from what I've seen with this thing so far. What are some safe fuel options for me short of buying full on race fuel. 93 pump with octane boost, more of the 100LL from the airport? Only experience with 100LL long term was a friend who burned the valves in a VW beetle about 27 years ago. Any thoughts on the 100LL.
Any specs you guys can pass on would be appreciated.
Thanks
The 103 octane only tag is believable from what I've seen with this thing so far. What are some safe fuel options for me short of buying full on race fuel. 93 pump with octane boost, more of the 100LL from the airport? Only experience with 100LL long term was a friend who burned the valves in a VW beetle about 27 years ago. Any thoughts on the 100LL.
Any specs you guys can pass on would be appreciated.
Thanks
#6
the lash is .024 intake .026 exhaust. If you look at the fine print on octane boost it says it will raise it a certain number of points but those points are .1 of a octane number, 20 points=2 octane numbers. That compression ratio will not work with any kind of regular pump gas, you with need the 100ll minimum.
#7
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You've got a heck of an engine there! Dad did well!
But it's not going to like pump gas unless you pull out a ton of timing.
Alternatives- look into a Snow Performance Water/Meth kit. They do really well with just W/S washer fluid. My twin turbo 555" makes 1100+ RWHP on 93 octane with no intercoolers using one of their kits.
Look into 'Kemco" fuel additive. A little bit goes a long way and it's completely different than typical parts store octane boosters. It's real lead and works great with pump gas on high compression motors.
JIM
But it's not going to like pump gas unless you pull out a ton of timing.
Alternatives- look into a Snow Performance Water/Meth kit. They do really well with just W/S washer fluid. My twin turbo 555" makes 1100+ RWHP on 93 octane with no intercoolers using one of their kits.
Look into 'Kemco" fuel additive. A little bit goes a long way and it's completely different than typical parts store octane boosters. It's real lead and works great with pump gas on high compression motors.
JIM
#8
Thanks for the replies, been out of town.
Sounds like race gas or some new engine parts are in my future. Most likely going to be race gas, not ready to make a substantial time and/or money investment in this car. The current engine set up has no road manors at all.
Sounds like this engine has a unique history and pedigree. I would kind of like to leave it alone however I will not be taking this thing to a drag strip. It will be driven around town on weekends. Decisions, decisions, decisions……….
Sounds like race gas or some new engine parts are in my future. Most likely going to be race gas, not ready to make a substantial time and/or money investment in this car. The current engine set up has no road manors at all.
Sounds like this engine has a unique history and pedigree. I would kind of like to leave it alone however I will not be taking this thing to a drag strip. It will be driven around town on weekends. Decisions, decisions, decisions……….
#9
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Those were very popular in the early 80's...on into the 90's. Seems like the last one we bought cost $1800 or so. There's nothing radical in it..just good heavy duty parts. Regular 4 bolt block, 7/16" rods, steel crank, iron open chamber heads, TRW forged pistons and a nasty solid lifter cam with 7/16" pushrods and long slot stamped rockers. Sort of an L-88 stroker with a bigger cam. Many were dropped into bracket race cars and serious street toys. A good roller cam woke them up even more.
With a well setup "normal" car they could run deep 10's. We used them in some lightweight Pro Gas cars to run the 9.90 index out of the box.
A cam change will make it a lot more streetable...but it would still need good gas. You could swap pistons (or mill down the ones in it) and change cam and make it anything you want it to be and run on pump gas.
A cam swap and the water/meth kit would be the simplest and cheapest while keeping the shortblock intact.
Any chance the original engine is still around somewhere? Could drop it back in for what you seem to want to do and sell off the old "crate" motor (before we called them that!)
JIM
With a well setup "normal" car they could run deep 10's. We used them in some lightweight Pro Gas cars to run the 9.90 index out of the box.
A cam change will make it a lot more streetable...but it would still need good gas. You could swap pistons (or mill down the ones in it) and change cam and make it anything you want it to be and run on pump gas.
A cam swap and the water/meth kit would be the simplest and cheapest while keeping the shortblock intact.
Any chance the original engine is still around somewhere? Could drop it back in for what you seem to want to do and sell off the old "crate" motor (before we called them that!)
JIM
#10
Burning Brakes
If you are willing to change your fuel fuel system gaskets and seals e-85
would be the most economical way to go.That is if it is available to you locally.
would be the most economical way to go.That is if it is available to you locally.
#11
Sadly, no we do not have the original engine.
Tell me more about the E85. I do not know why this would work, I had been under the impression that E85 was watered down gas. I ask because the fuel pump went out two weekends ago and I am in the midst of replacing it.
Tell me more about the E85. I do not know why this would work, I had been under the impression that E85 was watered down gas. I ask because the fuel pump went out two weekends ago and I am in the midst of replacing it.
#12
Racer
It is a common biofuel here in sweden.
In Brasil it is the dominating fuel.
I use only this in my SAAB 9-3 Biopower Turbo.
The good part, it`s 105 oct, bad part is that fuelconsumption goes up 25-30% due to lower energy value.
But that is compensated by a lower price, at least here in Sweden.
#13
Burning Brakes
E85 is a biofuel made mostly from sugarcane/beets.
It is a common biofuel here in sweden.
In Brasil it is the dominating fuel.
I use only this in my SAAB 9-3 Biopower Turbo.
The good part, it`s 105 oct, bad part is that fuelconsumption goes up 25-30% due to lower energy value.
But that is compensated by a lower price, at least here in Sweden.
It is a common biofuel here in sweden.
In Brasil it is the dominating fuel.
I use only this in my SAAB 9-3 Biopower Turbo.
The good part, it`s 105 oct, bad part is that fuelconsumption goes up 25-30% due to lower energy value.
But that is compensated by a lower price, at least here in Sweden.
#14
Racer
Could be the same in US?
#15
Racer
You have a heck of an engine, i would convert it to E85 or run it on 100LL, but i would not destroy it by change parts in it!
It is a true race engine of the era that is hard to find and a timepiece.
If i were closer i would buy it from you and run it on E85!
It is a true race engine of the era that is hard to find and a timepiece.
If i were closer i would buy it from you and run it on E85!
#16
Ok guys my curiosity is peaked. I have an E85 gas station about 2 miles from my house. What is involved in converting the car to E85? Is this a generally accepted way to run this old engine, ie enough lead?
I just happen to be in the middle of installing a new fuel pump. I had to hang a new gas tank in it two years ago so I'm familiar with that part of the system. There are hard lines to the fuel pump. So, am I looking at new e85 compatible fuel line, pump and a carb rebuild or does this take an entirely different carb?
Pros and cons give it to me.
I just happen to be in the middle of installing a new fuel pump. I had to hang a new gas tank in it two years ago so I'm familiar with that part of the system. There are hard lines to the fuel pump. So, am I looking at new e85 compatible fuel line, pump and a carb rebuild or does this take an entirely different carb?
Pros and cons give it to me.
#17
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E-85 is a good solution if it's easily available to you. Many of the bad boy turbo guys use it to make insane power. You'll be able to put the timing up where it wants to be.
The carb will need to be set up for it. You need more fuel flow through all orifices. There are quite a few E-85 tuned carbs available through Holley, Quickfuel and others. Or you can modify what you have. Fuel lines and pump will need to be compatible.
Only downside is long term storage. If the car sits more than it runs you're going to want to get it out of the tank and lines before letting it sit over the winter etc. due to corrosion. Really not much different than the issues with today's gas anyway.
JIM
The carb will need to be set up for it. You need more fuel flow through all orifices. There are quite a few E-85 tuned carbs available through Holley, Quickfuel and others. Or you can modify what you have. Fuel lines and pump will need to be compatible.
Only downside is long term storage. If the car sits more than it runs you're going to want to get it out of the tank and lines before letting it sit over the winter etc. due to corrosion. Really not much different than the issues with today's gas anyway.
JIM
#18
Drifting
I am a member of the XCH club. Mine was stamped with a 1974 build date. But as stated above the 12.25:1 CR and those big fat Rect Port open chamber heads was just not going to be a happy place with the crap fuel we have today. I have the original cam with only 1000 miles sitting on my shelf as well as the original #2 piston that loss a chunk the size of a quarter. I swapped it all out, the only original parts that remain are of course the 4 bolt main block, oil pan, rods and crank. Everything else is updated.
Ibfurloughed , please share some pics of the car and engine. Be nice to see.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Ibfurloughed , please share some pics of the car and engine. Be nice to see.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.