Best coolant for a C3?
08-24-2015, 10:02 AM
#22
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Member Since: Mar 2011
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Royal Canadian Navy
Mrvette, I live in Orlando and haven't seen 25 degrees ever that I recall in fact it seldom even get into or stays in the 30's here, you must be colder...when did it drop below zero???
I was tired and was hasty last night and forgot a few details,
The xterra has a new aluminum plastic tank radiator the old one went 140K plus miles.
The 69 vette has a Dewitts custom Aluminum radiator,
And the vette is still weeks perhaps a month from running,
I have zero doubt the Dewitts will cool it providing that I allow enough air to pass through it, the cooling system is just that a system.
Also the research I am doing is for an otherwise proper operating cooling system,
I will not derail and side track into all the ways a cooling system can have problems.
I have seen many debates on things like C/B vs Aluminum Radiators,
If all things are equal then Aluminum is not as good a conductor of heat as C/B
But most times aftermarket Aluminum radiators are bigger / better than the stock replacement and of course cool even better.
The big seller on aluminum radiators is light weight.
I have never and never will condone using straight water, but water is the best coolant, bummer so what to do?
There is some debate from additive companies if distilled or reverse osmosis filtered is better, it varies.
But do not use tap water.
While it's true that antifreeze raises the boiling point that too is a moot point for me,
The pressurized system also raises the boiling point, and if I reach that temperature something is wrong.
While some people like a hotter running engine I am good keeping mine on the cool side so if my cooling system is working correctly boiling is no concern.
Also unlike some I am not offended if you do your own thinking and do not use what I use I am not trying to sell any product only find what is best for me.
I still believe that for most vette owners premix will work just fine, I happen to like to go the next step in putzing around and will run one of additive likely hyper lube but I am looking at JB's product as I like their other stuff.
When I do have my car up and running I will be posting some cooling system tests.
Here is some more good reading...
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...tem-additives/
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...-radiator-cap/
I was tired and was hasty last night and forgot a few details,
The xterra has a new aluminum plastic tank radiator the old one went 140K plus miles.
The 69 vette has a Dewitts custom Aluminum radiator,
And the vette is still weeks perhaps a month from running,
I have zero doubt the Dewitts will cool it providing that I allow enough air to pass through it, the cooling system is just that a system.
Also the research I am doing is for an otherwise proper operating cooling system,
I will not derail and side track into all the ways a cooling system can have problems.
I have seen many debates on things like C/B vs Aluminum Radiators,
If all things are equal then Aluminum is not as good a conductor of heat as C/B
But most times aftermarket Aluminum radiators are bigger / better than the stock replacement and of course cool even better.
The big seller on aluminum radiators is light weight.
I have never and never will condone using straight water, but water is the best coolant, bummer so what to do?
There is some debate from additive companies if distilled or reverse osmosis filtered is better, it varies.
But do not use tap water.
While it's true that antifreeze raises the boiling point that too is a moot point for me,
The pressurized system also raises the boiling point, and if I reach that temperature something is wrong.
While some people like a hotter running engine I am good keeping mine on the cool side so if my cooling system is working correctly boiling is no concern.
Also unlike some I am not offended if you do your own thinking and do not use what I use I am not trying to sell any product only find what is best for me.
I still believe that for most vette owners premix will work just fine, I happen to like to go the next step in putzing around and will run one of additive likely hyper lube but I am looking at JB's product as I like their other stuff.
When I do have my car up and running I will be posting some cooling system tests.
Here is some more good reading...
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...tem-additives/
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...-radiator-cap/
08-24-2015, 10:31 PM
#24
Drifting
If the only benefit of the other antifreezes is it goes 70k without needing to be replaced why use it? I know I will have my coolant system open again before current build sees 70k, so unless it cools better than the others I have no use for it.
08-24-2015, 11:16 PM
#25
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
Posts: 11,608
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645 Posts
Kacyc3,
I posted a few links but there is lots of info to google NO antifreeze or waterless coolant cools better than water and a corrosion inhibitor additive,
The selling point of antifreeze is just that people who live where freezing is an issue, antifreeze also has the additives for the system.
Like I covered above raising the boiling point is moot for me,
I see the anther selling point of pre mix is no thinking , just add it and you are good.
The selling point of waterless coolant is a bit obscure for me, the selling point is you can recycle it and reuse it, so they say that saves you money but it's costly.
They do not mention that if you live in an un perfect world and ever have a leak out somewhere you must top it off with their product,
If you have a clean fresh built engine and cooling system then you just fill it up but if you have any things else in the system you have to use their costly flush and then they admit even the traces of water hurt the efficiently of their product, to me that is a lot of hassles for a product that cost more and doesn't offer me any benefit.
However, the makers admit your engine could possibly run cooler it will likely run hotter but they want to say that is okay, it's not okay with me, it will not run cooler than water and additive or even some/most pre mix anti freeze.
It's Not for me I do not want my car to run hotter and I sure am not going to pay to make my car run hotter.
I posted a few links but there is lots of info to google NO antifreeze or waterless coolant cools better than water and a corrosion inhibitor additive,
The selling point of antifreeze is just that people who live where freezing is an issue, antifreeze also has the additives for the system.
Like I covered above raising the boiling point is moot for me,
I see the anther selling point of pre mix is no thinking , just add it and you are good.
The selling point of waterless coolant is a bit obscure for me, the selling point is you can recycle it and reuse it, so they say that saves you money but it's costly.
They do not mention that if you live in an un perfect world and ever have a leak out somewhere you must top it off with their product,
If you have a clean fresh built engine and cooling system then you just fill it up but if you have any things else in the system you have to use their costly flush and then they admit even the traces of water hurt the efficiently of their product, to me that is a lot of hassles for a product that cost more and doesn't offer me any benefit.
However, the makers admit your engine could possibly run cooler it will likely run hotter but they want to say that is okay, it's not okay with me, it will not run cooler than water and additive or even some/most pre mix anti freeze.
It's Not for me I do not want my car to run hotter and I sure am not going to pay to make my car run hotter.
08-25-2015, 03:31 PM
#26
Pro
I asked Mr Tom Dewitt and his answer was use premix and no one can say that he doesn't know his tech on coolant.
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/recommended-coolants
I fully agree with that however in my case I am in florida I do not need antifreeze so I looked into running straight water as it is the best coolant which is a no no because of all kinds of corrosion and the need for water pump lubing etc.
So I started looking at options doing some unbiased reasearch.
Waterless it has it's fans who are like a cult.
http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm
So while I believe the product has a place in the world and fully respect the people who love it it's not what I desire due to the big cons including costs, which one leak ruins the idea of recycle it and save, and the extra hassles of first time set up plus the short comings that even the company admits that the engine very well might run hotter it just won't boil over, I do not want my engine running hotter it runs at a fine operating temperature.
My dad ( RIP ) a Navy Aircraft tech and life long machinist likes
http://www.no-rosion.com/norosioncoolant.htm
http://www.no-rosion.com/tech_coolant.htm
My con on it is they act odd, lol, I contacted them about buying from a vender and they only sell mail order and do basically no advertising, their product does fit my needs and will do what I desire, but they lack badly in tech talk and customer service.
However,
I am running this in the Xterra and I like the fact I can buy it at the local parts store
http://www.hyperlube.com/c3/super-coolant-c8.html
I am not finished researching if it's what I desire to run in my 69 c3 radiator.
So the end summery of what I learned:
Some c3 owners might want to do like I am and play with no antifreeze and additives.
A few c3 owners will want to run waterless dealing with it's drawbacks and feel that they are king of the hill on coolant.
In most all cases the average c3 owner needs nothing more than premix ( or mix it themselves ) OTC "antifreeze" and can forget it.
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/recommended-coolants
I fully agree with that however in my case I am in florida I do not need antifreeze so I looked into running straight water as it is the best coolant which is a no no because of all kinds of corrosion and the need for water pump lubing etc.
So I started looking at options doing some unbiased reasearch.
Waterless it has it's fans who are like a cult.
http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm
So while I believe the product has a place in the world and fully respect the people who love it it's not what I desire due to the big cons including costs, which one leak ruins the idea of recycle it and save, and the extra hassles of first time set up plus the short comings that even the company admits that the engine very well might run hotter it just won't boil over, I do not want my engine running hotter it runs at a fine operating temperature.
My dad ( RIP ) a Navy Aircraft tech and life long machinist likes
http://www.no-rosion.com/norosioncoolant.htm
http://www.no-rosion.com/tech_coolant.htm
My con on it is they act odd, lol, I contacted them about buying from a vender and they only sell mail order and do basically no advertising, their product does fit my needs and will do what I desire, but they lack badly in tech talk and customer service.
However,
I am running this in the Xterra and I like the fact I can buy it at the local parts store
http://www.hyperlube.com/c3/super-coolant-c8.html
I am not finished researching if it's what I desire to run in my 69 c3 radiator.
So the end summery of what I learned:
Some c3 owners might want to do like I am and play with no antifreeze and additives.
A few c3 owners will want to run waterless dealing with it's drawbacks and feel that they are king of the hill on coolant.
In most all cases the average c3 owner needs nothing more than premix ( or mix it themselves ) OTC "antifreeze" and can forget it.
The first prejudiced estimate in their favor is the heat capacity of Evans being "about half" that of water. Actually, it solidly 2/3. Why exaggerate? It makes you untrustworthy.
Second, my corvette runs at 190 with Evans. If I went to norosion, my temps would be 142-150. That's not proper operating temperatures, and your thermostat would fail due to the fatigue caused by constant opening and closing.
I'll address the supposed timing and octane adjustments in a separate post. My experience is real world, and I will post the data after my lunch break. You will find it very enlightening.
08-25-2015, 06:20 PM
#27
Pro
I've used Evans in 3 cars/trucks for 5 years with no difference in temps or other performance parameters.
I have Evans in my '69 Corvette big block and the temperature runs 190 with a 2 row aluminum radiator.
The engines flywheel hp on the dyno was 690, with open headers and velocity stack and no accessories. The coolant was pure water.
Last week I did a rwhp dyno thru mufflers and with alternator, a/c pulley and water pump. The rwhp was 544. The math tells us that 690 flywheel hp minus 17 percent drivetrain losses yield 572 hp. The remaining losses of 28 hp in my mind are attributable to air cleaner, muffler and accessories. The claim that you have to retard timing or increase octane due to Evans was not true in my case.
If you enjoy flushing and filling cooling systems, then by all means flush away. I'll stick with my Evans.
I have Evans in my '69 Corvette big block and the temperature runs 190 with a 2 row aluminum radiator.
The engines flywheel hp on the dyno was 690, with open headers and velocity stack and no accessories. The coolant was pure water.
Last week I did a rwhp dyno thru mufflers and with alternator, a/c pulley and water pump. The rwhp was 544. The math tells us that 690 flywheel hp minus 17 percent drivetrain losses yield 572 hp. The remaining losses of 28 hp in my mind are attributable to air cleaner, muffler and accessories. The claim that you have to retard timing or increase octane due to Evans was not true in my case.
If you enjoy flushing and filling cooling systems, then by all means flush away. I'll stick with my Evans.
Last edited by lurch59; 08-25-2015 at 06:35 PM. Reason: punctuation
08-25-2015, 06:23 PM
#28
Safety Car
I have had aluminum rad, heads, w/p, brass heater core, iron block 350 brass plumbing pipe in the hoses where I had to make them up due to F body plastic tank rad......and always have used Green Ethelyn Glycol and I have poured in a gallon of it on fill, and topped off with water, let it do it's own mixing......Up north in Md. I would top off with more Glycol as time went by.....never an issue, but it came close once...when temps went below zero....
here in Florida temps maybe go down to 25f or so overnight, so not so picky a gallon and top off with water, and just add water as needed.....OH, when Dexcool/Orange crap came out some years ago, the stuff had a BAD rap for some reason I forget, so all the vehicles get GREEN glycol ......
here in Florida temps maybe go down to 25f or so overnight, so not so picky a gallon and top off with water, and just add water as needed.....OH, when Dexcool/Orange crap came out some years ago, the stuff had a BAD rap for some reason I forget, so all the vehicles get GREEN glycol ......
08-25-2015, 06:34 PM
#29
Pro
Kacyc3,
I posted a few links but there is lots of info to google NO antifreeze or waterless coolant cools better than water and a corrosion inhibitor additive,
The selling point of antifreeze is just that people who live where freezing is an issue, antifreeze also has the additives for the system.
Like I covered above raising the boiling point is moot for me,
I see the anther selling point of pre mix is no thinking , just add it and you are good.
The selling point of waterless coolant is a bit obscure for me, the selling point is you can recycle it and reuse it, so they say that saves you money but it's costly.
They do not mention that if you live in an un perfect world and ever have a leak out somewhere you must top it off with their product,
If you have a clean fresh built engine and cooling system then you just fill it up but if you have any things else in the system you have to use their costly flush and then they admit even the traces of water hurt the efficiently of their product, to me that is a lot of hassles for a product that cost more and doesn't offer me any benefit.
However, the makers admit your engine could possibly run cooler it will likely run hotter but they want to say that is okay, it's not okay with me, it will not run cooler than water and additive or even some/most pre mix anti freeze.
It's Not for me I do not want my car to run hotter and I sure am not going to pay to make my car run hotter.
I posted a few links but there is lots of info to google NO antifreeze or waterless coolant cools better than water and a corrosion inhibitor additive,
The selling point of antifreeze is just that people who live where freezing is an issue, antifreeze also has the additives for the system.
Like I covered above raising the boiling point is moot for me,
I see the anther selling point of pre mix is no thinking , just add it and you are good.
The selling point of waterless coolant is a bit obscure for me, the selling point is you can recycle it and reuse it, so they say that saves you money but it's costly.
They do not mention that if you live in an un perfect world and ever have a leak out somewhere you must top it off with their product,
If you have a clean fresh built engine and cooling system then you just fill it up but if you have any things else in the system you have to use their costly flush and then they admit even the traces of water hurt the efficiently of their product, to me that is a lot of hassles for a product that cost more and doesn't offer me any benefit.
However, the makers admit your engine could possibly run cooler it will likely run hotter but they want to say that is okay, it's not okay with me, it will not run cooler than water and additive or even some/most pre mix anti freeze.
It's Not for me I do not want my car to run hotter and I sure am not going to pay to make my car run hotter.
Annual inspections of the hoses, belts, and water pump should prevent you from having coolant losses due to bad hoses, etc. I do replace my thermostats every five years or so. Can't get a steam burn from sudden depressurization if you use Evans either, as it doesn't rely on pressure to prevent boiling. Just some things you may have not thought about you might want to consider.
08-25-2015, 06:34 PM
#30
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
Posts: 11,608
Received 772 Likes
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645 Posts
You claim to have done unbiased research, and then proceed to quote a study done by norosion. In my line of work, we refer to this kind of research as "geographic results" meaning my product performs superiorly to your product at our test facility. And of course the competitors research shows their product superiority at their research facility. Let's look at the summary which caused my b.s. o'meter to go off.
i am not your enemy just because I do not worship evans as you do.
I still wonder why you get so butt hurt and take it as such a personal insult because I do not believe Evans is the end all to be all and do not want to run it in my car. why do you care what little old bats does
I Have done a lot of unbiased research to see what coolant is best for ME,
Unlike you I am not trying to sell anyone on any specific coolant you act like you own stock in evans.
I posted links to a lot of companies besides norosion but I guess you are mad at them for showing what their testing proved about evans, if you questions their results go tell them about your BS meter go tell the people conducting the tests telling me doesnt help, in all respects I do not care how you feel about other companies tests.
The first prejudiced estimate in their favor is the heat capacity of Evans being "about half" that of water. Actually, it solidly 2/3. Why exaggerate? It makes you untrustworthy.
Moot point in my world except we all know or should that water is the very best conductor of heat for car cooling systems and does cool better than any anti freeze or evans but the down side is we cant run straight water.
Second, my corvette runs at 190 with Evans. If I went to norosion, my temps would be 142-150. That's not proper operating temperatures, and your thermostat would fail due to the fatigue caused by constant opening and closing.
You are trying to sell your biased opinion as a fact, Have you tried norosion? if the answer is no then that will make a bs meter peg that you predict what your car will run at without even trying it, do you use a crystal ball for that? I hardly believe your car or any would run that cool with norosion, oh geez now we have thermostats working too hard.
I'll address the supposed timing and octane adjustments in a separate post. My experience is real world, and I will post the data after my lunch break. You will find it very enlightening.
i am not your enemy just because I do not worship evans as you do.
I still wonder why you get so butt hurt and take it as such a personal insult because I do not believe Evans is the end all to be all and do not want to run it in my car. why do you care what little old bats does
I Have done a lot of unbiased research to see what coolant is best for ME,
Unlike you I am not trying to sell anyone on any specific coolant you act like you own stock in evans.
I posted links to a lot of companies besides norosion but I guess you are mad at them for showing what their testing proved about evans, if you questions their results go tell them about your BS meter go tell the people conducting the tests telling me doesnt help, in all respects I do not care how you feel about other companies tests.
The first prejudiced estimate in their favor is the heat capacity of Evans being "about half" that of water. Actually, it solidly 2/3. Why exaggerate? It makes you untrustworthy.
Moot point in my world except we all know or should that water is the very best conductor of heat for car cooling systems and does cool better than any anti freeze or evans but the down side is we cant run straight water.
Second, my corvette runs at 190 with Evans. If I went to norosion, my temps would be 142-150. That's not proper operating temperatures, and your thermostat would fail due to the fatigue caused by constant opening and closing.
You are trying to sell your biased opinion as a fact, Have you tried norosion? if the answer is no then that will make a bs meter peg that you predict what your car will run at without even trying it, do you use a crystal ball for that? I hardly believe your car or any would run that cool with norosion, oh geez now we have thermostats working too hard.
I'll address the supposed timing and octane adjustments in a separate post. My experience is real world, and I will post the data after my lunch break. You will find it very enlightening.
It shouldn't matter to you at all if I like evans or I dont, I toss lots of information and links out there for people to do their own thinking and learn what they want to run in their car , I am good with free thinking I am sad you are not.
I know you will flame out on me now so have at it get in your last word and then we can return to tech talk, have a good one I will enjoy my coolant and you enjoy evans and we can be content if you will allow it....
The following users liked this post:
donstriker (04-19-2024)
08-25-2015, 06:47 PM
#31
Pro
Mrvette, I live in Orlando and haven't seen 25 degrees ever that I recall in fact it seldom even get into or stays in the 30's here, you must be colder...when did it drop below zero???
I was tired and was hasty last night and forgot a few details,
The xterra has a new aluminum plastic tank radiator the old one went 140K plus miles.
The 69 vette has a Dewitts custom Aluminum radiator,
And the vette is still weeks perhaps a month from running,
I have zero doubt the Dewitts will cool it providing that I allow enough air to pass through it, the cooling system is just that a system.
Also the research I am doing is for an otherwise proper operating cooling system,
I will not derail and side track into all the ways a cooling system can have problems.
I have seen many debates on things like C/B vs Aluminum Radiators,
If all things are equal then Aluminum is not as good a conductor of heat as C/B
But most times aftermarket Aluminum radiators are bigger / better than the stock replacement and of course cool even better.
The big seller on aluminum radiators is light weight.
I have never and never will condone using straight water, but water is the best coolant, bummer so what to do?
There is some debate from additive companies if distilled or reverse osmosis filtered is better, it varies.
But do not use tap water.
While it's true that antifreeze raises the boiling point that too is a moot point for me,
The pressurized system also raises the boiling point, and if I reach that temperature something is wrong.
While some people like a hotter running engine I am good keeping mine on the cool side so if my cooling system is working correctly boiling is no concern.
Also unlike some I am not offended if you do your own thinking and do not use what I use I am not trying to sell any product only find what is best for me.
I still believe that for most vette owners premix will work just fine, I happen to like to go the next step in putzing around and will run one of additive likely hyper lube but I am looking at JB's product as I like their other stuff.
When I do have my car up and running I will be posting some cooling system tests.
Here is some more good reading...
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...tem-additives/
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...-radiator-cap/
I was tired and was hasty last night and forgot a few details,
The xterra has a new aluminum plastic tank radiator the old one went 140K plus miles.
The 69 vette has a Dewitts custom Aluminum radiator,
And the vette is still weeks perhaps a month from running,
I have zero doubt the Dewitts will cool it providing that I allow enough air to pass through it, the cooling system is just that a system.
Also the research I am doing is for an otherwise proper operating cooling system,
I will not derail and side track into all the ways a cooling system can have problems.
I have seen many debates on things like C/B vs Aluminum Radiators,
If all things are equal then Aluminum is not as good a conductor of heat as C/B
But most times aftermarket Aluminum radiators are bigger / better than the stock replacement and of course cool even better.
The big seller on aluminum radiators is light weight.
I have never and never will condone using straight water, but water is the best coolant, bummer so what to do?
There is some debate from additive companies if distilled or reverse osmosis filtered is better, it varies.
But do not use tap water.
While it's true that antifreeze raises the boiling point that too is a moot point for me,
The pressurized system also raises the boiling point, and if I reach that temperature something is wrong.
While some people like a hotter running engine I am good keeping mine on the cool side so if my cooling system is working correctly boiling is no concern.
Also unlike some I am not offended if you do your own thinking and do not use what I use I am not trying to sell any product only find what is best for me.
I still believe that for most vette owners premix will work just fine, I happen to like to go the next step in putzing around and will run one of additive likely hyper lube but I am looking at JB's product as I like their other stuff.
When I do have my car up and running I will be posting some cooling system tests.
Here is some more good reading...
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...tem-additives/
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...-radiator-cap/
Hot spots in the cylinder head due to boiling cause spontaneous combustion in the cylinder which affects flame front travel and reduces performance.
08-25-2015, 07:17 PM
#32
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2014
Location: Cape Neddick Maine
Posts: 1,042
Received 226 Likes
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148 Posts
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Damn i am so confused with this thread and all the side links LOL
I would like to poss a simple question.....
SBC iron block aluminium heads and intake stock Harrison radiator I suppose its brass What type of coolant
Green
Yellow
Red
brown?????
living in New England I know water is out LOL
just trying to get back to a basic question for the OP Flame away!!!!
I would like to poss a simple question.....
SBC iron block aluminium heads and intake stock Harrison radiator I suppose its brass What type of coolant
Green
Yellow
Red
brown?????
living in New England I know water is out LOL
just trying to get back to a basic question for the OP Flame away!!!!
08-25-2015, 07:29 PM
#33
Pro
Damn i am so confused with this thread and all the side links LOL
I would like to poss a simple question.....
SBC iron block aluminium heads and intake stock Harrison radiator I suppose its brass What type of coolant
Green
Yellow
Red
brown?????
living in New England I know water is out LOL
just trying to get back to a basic question for the OP Flame away!!!!
I would like to poss a simple question.....
SBC iron block aluminium heads and intake stock Harrison radiator I suppose its brass What type of coolant
Green
Yellow
Red
brown?????
living in New England I know water is out LOL
just trying to get back to a basic question for the OP Flame away!!!!
08-25-2015, 08:04 PM
#35
Pro
The13Bats,
I'm criticizing the norosion article you cited. When I stated "It makes you untrustworthy" I was referring to the study exaggerating the thermal heat transfer capacity, not to you.
As for your claim of speculating about my car temperature using norosion, in the summary of findings from the norosion link you posted, it states using Evans raises the stabilized coolant temp 31-48 degrees over norosion and water. As I currently run 190, it I switched to water and norosion I would expect a temp drop as per their data and that is not an appropriate operating temperature.
In the interest of full disclosure, I am a dentist and have no stock in Evans as implied. Nor do I have any interest in switching careers and selling automotive coolant. The discussion is for everyone to learn, not to convince you to switch coolants.
If I have offended you, I apologize. I don't recall "getting mad" or "insulting" anyone on another thread. Perhaps you are thinking of someone else.
I'm criticizing the norosion article you cited. When I stated "It makes you untrustworthy" I was referring to the study exaggerating the thermal heat transfer capacity, not to you.
As for your claim of speculating about my car temperature using norosion, in the summary of findings from the norosion link you posted, it states using Evans raises the stabilized coolant temp 31-48 degrees over norosion and water. As I currently run 190, it I switched to water and norosion I would expect a temp drop as per their data and that is not an appropriate operating temperature.
In the interest of full disclosure, I am a dentist and have no stock in Evans as implied. Nor do I have any interest in switching careers and selling automotive coolant. The discussion is for everyone to learn, not to convince you to switch coolants.
If I have offended you, I apologize. I don't recall "getting mad" or "insulting" anyone on another thread. Perhaps you are thinking of someone else.
08-25-2015, 08:48 PM
#36
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
Posts: 11,608
Received 772 Likes
on
645 Posts
The13Bats,
I'm criticizing the norosion article you cited. When I stated "It makes you untrustworthy" I was referring to the study exaggerating the thermal heat transfer capacity, not to you.
I understand I too find some things "fishy" about norosion as I do Evans and most coolants and coolant additive with the exception of good old fashion pre mix,
While I do not know which additive I will run with my water I will not be running "antifreeze" or evans.
As for your claim of speculating about my car temperature using norosion, in the summary of findings from the norosion link you posted, it states using Evans raises the stabilized coolant temp 31-48 degrees over norosion and water. As I currently run 190, it I switched to water and norosion I would expect a temp drop as per their data and that is not an appropriate operating temperature.
I certainly hope no one believes that ANY additive or coolant including evans will cool better than plain old water ( yes, I know we cant run straight water but water is the best for heat transfer )
I hope even more so that no one believes that no rosion will drop the temp of any car running 190 31-48 degrees,
I will assume that since you already said you find the no rosion data untrustworthy you actually do not believe this claim but rather are just being facetious, I would love for you to contact the norosion people about this.
If your car runs 190 it would run 190 on any coolant, evans isnt the magic factor doing this, you have a well working cooling system.
In the interest of full disclosure, I am a dentist and have no stock in Evans as implied. Nor do I have any interest in switching careers and selling automotive coolant. The discussion is for everyone to learn, not to convince you to switch coolants.
Nothing personal I hate dentists and I have a broken tooth you guys scare me...see more below
If I have offended you, I apologize. I don't recall "getting mad" or "insulting" anyone on another thread. Perhaps you are thinking of someone else.
I'm criticizing the norosion article you cited. When I stated "It makes you untrustworthy" I was referring to the study exaggerating the thermal heat transfer capacity, not to you.
I understand I too find some things "fishy" about norosion as I do Evans and most coolants and coolant additive with the exception of good old fashion pre mix,
While I do not know which additive I will run with my water I will not be running "antifreeze" or evans.
As for your claim of speculating about my car temperature using norosion, in the summary of findings from the norosion link you posted, it states using Evans raises the stabilized coolant temp 31-48 degrees over norosion and water. As I currently run 190, it I switched to water and norosion I would expect a temp drop as per their data and that is not an appropriate operating temperature.
I certainly hope no one believes that ANY additive or coolant including evans will cool better than plain old water ( yes, I know we cant run straight water but water is the best for heat transfer )
I hope even more so that no one believes that no rosion will drop the temp of any car running 190 31-48 degrees,
I will assume that since you already said you find the no rosion data untrustworthy you actually do not believe this claim but rather are just being facetious, I would love for you to contact the norosion people about this.
If your car runs 190 it would run 190 on any coolant, evans isnt the magic factor doing this, you have a well working cooling system.
In the interest of full disclosure, I am a dentist and have no stock in Evans as implied. Nor do I have any interest in switching careers and selling automotive coolant. The discussion is for everyone to learn, not to convince you to switch coolants.
Nothing personal I hate dentists and I have a broken tooth you guys scare me...see more below
If I have offended you, I apologize. I don't recall "getting mad" or "insulting" anyone on another thread. Perhaps you are thinking of someone else.
I am wicked tired no sleep, You are correct, I apologize I was mistaken you for another cat who got really butt hurt when people didn't want to run Evans just because he did, it went from his pseudo tech and trying to force evans as the only way to his attacking with ad hominem insults, ruined the thread.
The guy did come off like evans is the end all to be all, and it would lead people to think they had some interest in the sales of the company.
So do not get me wrong I believe Evans is a good product just not what I desire,
In that I am not sure which additive I will run I lean towards hyper lube.
I wrote JB and their customer service and tech is horrible
08-26-2015, 09:16 AM
#37
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Member Since: Mar 2011
Location: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Posts: 5,338
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Royal Canadian Navy
Damn i am so confused with this thread and all the side links LOL
I would like to poss a simple question.....
SBC iron block aluminium heads and intake stock Harrison radiator I suppose its brass What type of coolant
Green
Yellow
Red
brown?????
living in New England I know water is out LOL
just trying to get back to a basic question for the OP Flame away!!!!
I would like to poss a simple question.....
SBC iron block aluminium heads and intake stock Harrison radiator I suppose its brass What type of coolant
Green
Yellow
Red
brown?????
living in New England I know water is out LOL
just trying to get back to a basic question for the OP Flame away!!!!
08-26-2015, 09:59 AM
#39
Safety Car
I actually though there was. I was under the impression the colors should never be mixed... I know the orange stuff is different than the green and can gel up if mixed. Also I know the orange stuff I'm using was designed for aluminum ... anything more than that I considered to be more of a waste of time on my journey to get my car completed... I may not be using the absolute BEST POSSIBLE coolant on the market but why is it needed here? I will be dumping and flushing it likley before its really needed so I dont need anything that will perform to any extreme lifespan or temp range myself... If I was building a racecar maybe it would be more practical to research all of this? Why so much over engineering for such a simply engineered automobile?
Last edited by augiedoggy; 08-26-2015 at 10:02 AM.
08-26-2015, 10:13 AM
#40
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
Posts: 11,608
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I would agree not to mix colors,
not sure there is a cut in stone color standard.
Curious if you feel it's over engineering and a waste of time why are you here posting in the tread if it doesnt even matter to you?
My health issues made me learn to do lots of desk top work bench designing and building but it saves so much actual wrenching time for me.
I am not building a race car or even see it as over engineering to do this research but the reason I put so much time into research is to avoid hassles and know more about what I desire in my build, like I said for 99% of c3 owners premix is just fine, but even with that one must know which pre mix is correct for them.
I spent too much $$$ on the radiator, I am doing just as much research or more on electric fans as I am coolants,
I enjoy it....
not sure there is a cut in stone color standard.
Curious if you feel it's over engineering and a waste of time why are you here posting in the tread if it doesnt even matter to you?
My health issues made me learn to do lots of desk top work bench designing and building but it saves so much actual wrenching time for me.
I am not building a race car or even see it as over engineering to do this research but the reason I put so much time into research is to avoid hassles and know more about what I desire in my build, like I said for 99% of c3 owners premix is just fine, but even with that one must know which pre mix is correct for them.
I spent too much $$$ on the radiator, I am doing just as much research or more on electric fans as I am coolants,
I enjoy it....