OzBeast

Thanks, it seems like the choices are:

a) Evans high perf coolant (~3 Gallons) + prep fluid (1 Gallon) - Around $150 for all 4. Plus about $15 for a test kit, or (double use if you homebrew!) Might also need a blower if you don't have one already... here is a on amazon.

or

b) Additive such as Zerex green ($22 x 2 on Amazon)
+
50% water, either distilled or reverse osmosis (not tap or garden) depending on preference.

I can't seem to find any significant difference between distilled and RO water bats, no sure why you are anti-distilled. Chemically they are virtually the same.

I think you may be confusing distilled water with deionized water. They are not the same, though the end result is still water stripped of impurities. For what it's worth, RO does the same thing - so I'm not sure what the point of the argument is.

With option A, it's a one time cost of around $200 but removes concerns about corrosion, cavitation or steam pockets as discussed by various people above. Whether or not this is a tangible benefit, or simply a placebo like peace-of-mind, there is still an advantage over traditional water/additive. There is obviously prep time and install time which must be factored in.

Option B is much easier, obviously, but requires more maintenance - (every 1-4 yrs depending on your level of OCD). Has more potential for corrosion issues, overheating etc.

Thanks, I may go this route, I plan on keeping this car for a long time. Even if I wasn't, the cost is only a few hundred dollars for something you (touch wood) never need to worry about again. People in here make it sound like running Evans is going to require a second mortgage to finance .

I need to have a look at my block and see if getting a proper drain is going to be feasible.

On the subject of draining, I found this thread from 2011 that has some interesting discussion on the subject, as well as some great pictures of drained C3 engine blocks.

Cheers, Beast.

The13Bats

Ozbeast

I am not feeling well today and gonna hop off the comp and get into the real world perhaps a trip to the junk yard would be fun, so I cant go hunt up good links for you,
On Google is all you can read about the difference in RO water or distilled they are different.
But if you are going to run evans no need for you to even think about water types.

I will assure you that I am not confused nor debating anything I wish people would not mistake me stating why I will use what I plan to use as a argument against the things I do not use...after all I said pre mix is actually the easiest least thinking about it way for 99% of c3 owners to have coolant in their cooling system and it work great.

No matter what coolant you run if you "never think about it again" that is neglecting the cooling system.

You said,
While the tangible benefits are good but will vary engine to engine, you are not correct that Evans is the only coolant to offer that,
You need to re read about the additive starting with no rosion. the additives I am considering offer all the same perks of evans with lower costs, the confusion might be they do get to the same result in different ways,
I never said Evans required a second mortgage just compared to what I will run it is costly.
And simply running Evans or any coolant will not guarantee never having a problem the world is not a perfect place, carry extra evans in case.
Evans is great for people who unlike me are not trying to get the running temp as low as possible.

In my case my cooling system is past up to par it's far better custom made dewitts radiator overheating is not a concern with me, and I will never consider coolant a fix for a sub par cooling system no one should but I will not pay extra for a coolant that even the makers say could raise engine temps.

I fully support you doing your own thinking and deciding Evans is right for you, I would love to see a step by step of your flushing and install,

I do not believe evans is a horrible product it has it's place in the worlds it's just not what I would consider running, It's too bad my feelings about it are taken as arguement and insult but people who do like it....not my intention to insult anyone.

Big2Bird

TheycallmeDave

I vote for as little anti-freeze as needed for your locale, with distilled water, and a bottle of Redlines Water Wetter. That's what ive always run without a lick of trouble.

The13Bats

In my case I do not need anti freeze so I run the RO water I like and "water wetter" or "additive" as I like to call it....but if you are in a place that gets cold then you doing it the way I would....

Do you like redline, they were on my list.

TheycallmeDave

IF you have a/c , you will need a bit of anti-freeze in the system as the water in the heater core sits dormant in the summer and sometimes the discharge air temp coming off the a/c cooling coil can approach 32 f. You don't need your heater core splitting due to a freeze up. This is also Redlines recommendation in their technical reports .

Yes, I like Redlines Water Wetter, but im sure the other competitors work equally well . Who knows for sure .

The13Bats

I couldnt recall if it was redline I read so much on so many additive brands I'm down to hyper lube or no rosion, maybe jb but I do recall one that said you must also run antifreeze so I x'ed them off my list,
Purple ice is off the list too,
I hope my ac gets that cold,
I do not have ac and when I do add it I will cross the heater core thing then, but never heard of a heater core doing that, new one for me that I guess must have happened somewhere....

REELAV8R

Now I've heard it all.

TheycallmeDave

No, you just weren't aware of it !

The discharge air from my Vintage Air a/c in the Vette comes out of the registers at 34 f which means its discharging air at the cooling coil then immediately passing the dormant heater core at 32 f. or below.
Did you know that water starts to freeze at 32 f ? A bit of antifreeze in the system during summer months will prevent any problems. And so says REDLINE PRODUCTS COMPANY makers of Water Wetter.

REELAV8R

Dave , I think you may be confusing the evaporator "icing up" with freezing of your heater core.

This quote is taken from vintage air PDF Page 9.
http://www.vintageair.com/AC%20Basic...%204.23.15.pdf

Think about it for a minute. Ice is 32*f. We add ice to water all the time, it does not freeze the water. Ice water in a cooler even if left overnight is still not frozen, nor are the other contents of that cooler (beer, pop etc).
You're talking about blowing 32* air over a heater core for a period of time and freezing the heater core. That's not going to happen. One of the outlets on the core is still exposed to hot water in the engine compartment even if your water shutoff is closed. Through conduction the water in the core is still going to be warmed. Even if you close both inlet and outlet from the heater core you will not freeze the water in the core. There is plenty of heat in the cabin and it takes colder than 32* air for an extended period of time in a significantly cooled environment for you to freeze your heater core. The evaporator will freeze the water that has collected on it first.

This freezing is because the condensate on the evaporator is in direct contact with the metal that is flowing very cold (far below freezing) Freon inside the evaporator's tubes.

The13Bats

I find things like this really cool...no pun entended,

I recall my redneck buddies are mad and pissing fire that if you hold a sparkplug where the tip where you stick the wire and the metal body contact a car windshield it will shatter on contact...

I pondered it for 3 seconds and said who will bet me xxxx amount and held it on my 66's windscreen, it didnt crack...

So if I have a heater core and ac and no anti freeze it will freeze and split the heater core...I will be adding vintage ac and would be thrilled to try this like the windscreen thing but it might be 6 months to a year before I get the ac installed so show me a picture a real world first party account of a heater core ( c3 ) actually freezing and splitting...cold or frost doesnt count.....

TheycallmeDave

Im not confusing it. The heater core sits directly in front of the evaporator and if the stagnant water only in a heating coil experiences continual temps below freezing hitting it, the water inside will start to freeze. Im aware of such things as an evaporator freezing up but that's not what talking about here. The Redline Tech himself told me to always use some antifreeze to prevent any anomaly and he specifically told me what I just said above. Do as you will.............im only here to help others with info and its not the hill I want to die on.

The13Bats

if I sit a glass of ice tea a inch away from my home wall ac blowing out the same temps as the car ac will that ice tea freeze?

lurch59

Water freezes at 32 degrees F assuming the water is pure. The energy needed in joules to remove the heat through the phase change from water to ice would likely never be realized.

COOLTED

I thought this was gonna get good...

REELAV8R

I can 99.9999999% guarantee that it will never happen. Water and ice are both possible at 32*F.
Lots of additional energy is needed to make the change.
If water is even slightly disturbed in the process of solidifying it won't solidify at 32*. Take the temperature of a flowing creek in the winter.
Plenty of impurities in your engine block cooling system that will lower the freezing point of the water.

TheycallmeDave

It will if the tea with water is the same specific gravity as water. I don't know if tea has any anti-freezing effect or not. A glass of full water will start to freeze by conduction of the container it is in ... especially if it is a non insulated vessel its in.

TheycallmeDave

Like I said previously, my Vintage Air system has to be discharging air from the evaporator at below freezing since im measuring 33-34 F. at the nearest dash outlet. Its true that standing water in a heating coil right after the evaporator will not freeze anytime soon if it sees sayyyy 29 f but why take the risk ? Just add a tad of anti-freeze to the coolant if you have a/c and youll be home free.

The13Bats

After calling several people who do it for a living and all laughing I give up on getting my ice tea or heater core frozen...but I still wait for you to post that picture....

TheycallmeDave

Many people make a living at something, and don't know about many things. Someone 'making a living at it' is not the standard of truth for theres a lot of uneducated Smucks about .....contact the REDLINE Tech and ask him . THEY KNOW and its the Redline Tech that told me precisely what ive shared in this thread. If you don't care to, then that is your prerogative and good luck taking a chance with your heater core freezing by having stagnant water only in it. To save you some time...here, read the very last line from Redline Water Wetters spec sheet :

' FREEZING POINT DEPRESSION
Red Line WaterWetter® does not significantly reduce
the freezing point of water. If the vehicle will see
freezing temperatures, an antifreeze must be used.
Water expands approximately 9% upon freezing
which can cause severe engine damage. Even in
summertime, the use of air-conditioning can blow
freezing air through the heater and cause freezing of
the heater core unless approximately 20% antifreeze
is used.'


(Now go n have a good laugh at the 'expert' you trusted.) Peace n love !