ATHANASE

OK. Looks like I have to start a post on this topic as I can't find the answer to my question, browsing on the forum.

I believe it is time to flush the cooling system of my 71 LS5.
No need to bother about compatibility: The last time it was done, that was in Europe, with a coolant that is not available here, period.

So, between orange, green, yellow (even blue!), IAT, OAT, HOAT, I am lost. At the end of the day, I want to know what is the best coolant for MY car (71' 454 running hot) knowing that:
- I want to minimize wearing on the system,
- I don't care so much about flushing intervalles since it is not a daily driver (2,500 miles a year or so),
- I am considering flushing (and rinsing) the entire system anyway,
- I (and the car) live in southern Texas i.e. we have little need for "antifreeze" per se,

So, as I'll re-start from a blank page, which way should I go with today's available technology? Should I go by GM specification from 1971? Should I go IAT? OAT? HOAT?

ddawson

I'm using ZEREX G-05.

ATHANASE

Thanks for your quick response. ZEREX G-05 is an Hybrid OAT, right?
How long have you been using it and why?

The13Bats

I asked Mr Tom Dewitt and his answer was use premix and no one can say that he doesn't know his tech on coolant.
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/recommended-coolants
I fully agree with that however in my case I am in florida I do not need antifreeze so I looked into running straight water as it is the best coolant which is a no no because of all kinds of corrosion and the need for water pump lubing etc.

So I started looking at options doing some unbiased reasearch.
Waterless it has it's fans who are like a cult.

http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm

So while I believe the product has a place in the world and fully respect the people who love it it's not what I desire due to the big cons including costs, which one leak ruins the idea of recycle it and save, and the extra hassles of first time set up plus the short comings that even the company admits that the engine very well might run hotter it just won't boil over, I do not want my engine running hotter it runs at a fine operating temperature.


My dad ( RIP ) a Navy Aircraft tech and life long machinist likes

http://www.no-rosion.com/norosioncoolant.htm

http://www.no-rosion.com/tech_coolant.htm

My con on it is they act odd, lol, I contacted them about buying from a vender and they only sell mail order and do basically no advertising, their product does fit my needs and will do what I desire, but they lack badly in tech talk and customer service.


However,
I am running this in the Xterra and I like the fact I can buy it at the local parts store
http://www.hyperlube.com/c3/super-coolant-c8.html
I am not finished researching if it's what I desire to run in my 69 c3 radiator.

So the end summery of what I learned:

Some c3 owners might want to do like I am and play with no antifreeze and additives.

A few c3 owners will want to run waterless dealing with it's drawbacks and feel that they are king of the hill on coolant.

In most all cases the average c3 owner needs nothing more than premix ( or mix it themselves ) OTC "antifreeze" and can forget it.

Big2Bird

I have used Prestone with distilled water since 1971 or so.

ATHANASE

Thank you The13Bats for your detailed answer.

Agree. Antifreeze do not only come with ethylene glycol which provides the "antifreeze" function per se, and which I don't really care for; it also comes with some additives that help in preventing/reducing corrosion. This is the part I am really interested in.

Sounds good indeed. The newer coolants are designed to fit the needs of more modern cars, including aluminum radiators. It is probably what you have in your Xterra. Not sure if it is the best fit for a very conventional, old fashion steel radiator.

I'll be highly interested in learning what you'll come up with!

ATHANASE

That's the easy way. And you are probably right.
How often do you flush?

resdoggie

They should change the name of anti-freeze in the southern climes to anti-boil. Anti-freeze also raises the boiling point in your cooling system so I would never use straight water. I do use premix though.

Big2Bird

When I remember.

Maybe every 3 years or so.

ATHANASE

Good point! Thanks resdoggie.

Green?

ATHANASE

Which one of their products? The yellow jar? Dex-cool? Prime conventional green?

augiedoggy

I thought my original rad was copper/brass made by Harrison radiator which was about 20 minutes from my house?

I have replaced my radiator with an aluminum champion one last year and at that time I also switched to the orange "GM" style coolant... so far so good . it does what its supposed to and and its supposed to be more corrosion resistant.

Big2Bird

Green extended. Mix with distilled or use the premix.

If you are really concerned, take out the drain plug and install this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fld-fhp32004

ATHANASE

Yes, that's my understanding too: Aluminum rad >>>> Orange (OAT) coolant.

ATHANASE

It's not that I am terribly concerned, but this Fluidyne Zinc Anode is quite interesting indeed. Thanks.

toobroketoretire

I have always used the "green stuff" by either Prestone or Zerex along with distilled water and then I pre-mix it with the water so I can simply pour the correct mix in.

ATHANASE

It makes complete sense. I take that you don't have an aluminum rad.

mrvette

I have had aluminum rad, heads, w/p, brass heater core, iron block 350 brass plumbing pipe in the hoses where I had to make them up due to F body plastic tank rad......and always have used Green Ethelyn Glycol and I have poured in a gallon of it on fill, and topped off with water, let it do it's own mixing......Up north in Md. I would top off with more Glycol as time went by.....never an issue, but it came close once...when temps went below zero....

here in Florida temps maybe go down to 25f or so overnight, so not so picky a gallon and top off with water, and just add water as needed.....OH, when Dexcool/Orange crap came out some years ago, the stuff had a BAD rap for some reason I forget, so all the vehicles get GREEN glycol ......

mortgageguy

I've posted before that years ago I used the prestone all makes/all models fluid in all three of our cars. Water pump went out on two and heater core in the vette. I went back to conventional green on the vette, and what ever type specified by the mfg. in the other cars. No problems since. May have been coincidence or not.

The13Bats

Mrvette, I live in Orlando and haven't seen 25 degrees ever that I recall in fact it seldom even get into or stays in the 30's here, you must be colder...when did it drop below zero???

I was tired and was hasty last night and forgot a few details,
The xterra has a new aluminum plastic tank radiator the old one went 140K plus miles.

The 69 vette has a Dewitts custom Aluminum radiator,
And the vette is still weeks perhaps a month from running,
I have zero doubt the Dewitts will cool it providing that I allow enough air to pass through it, the cooling system is just that a system.

Also the research I am doing is for an otherwise proper operating cooling system,
I will not derail and side track into all the ways a cooling system can have problems.

I have seen many debates on things like C/B vs Aluminum Radiators,
If all things are equal then Aluminum is not as good a conductor of heat as C/B
But most times aftermarket Aluminum radiators are bigger / better than the stock replacement and of course cool even better.
The big seller on aluminum radiators is light weight.

I have never and never will condone using straight water, but water is the best coolant, bummer so what to do?
There is some debate from additive companies if distilled or reverse osmosis filtered is better, it varies.
But do not use tap water.

While it's true that antifreeze raises the boiling point that too is a moot point for me,
The pressurized system also raises the boiling point, and if I reach that temperature something is wrong.
While some people like a hotter running engine I am good keeping mine on the cool side so if my cooling system is working correctly boiling is no concern.

Also unlike some I am not offended if you do your own thinking and do not use what I use I am not trying to sell any product only find what is best for me.
I still believe that for most vette owners premix will work just fine, I happen to like to go the next step in putzing around and will run one of additive likely hyper lube but I am looking at JB's product as I like their other stuff.

When I do have my car up and running I will be posting some cooling system tests.

Here is some more good reading...

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...tem-additives/


http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...-radiator-cap/