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If I had to guess, starting with the second fat mark, 200. then 220, 240, and the bottom of the red is maybe 250, top of red 260, all being too hot. You need the stock fan back unless the reading you have there is better than stock. I would not be happy with anything over 200-210 at cruising speed.
If I had to guess, starting with the second fat mark, 200. then 220, 240, and the bottom of the red is maybe 250, top of red 260, all being too hot. You need the stock fan back unless the reading you have there is better than stock. I would not be happy with anything over 200-210 at cruising speed.
then i saw 240 today
why does chevy even want to make me guess at something so important???, yes, looking to try a e- pusher fan, if that does not work the stock goes back in
I put a 2nd gauge in my 72 because I thought the stock gauge was reading too high and I didn't really even know what it was reading. I tested the new gauge before putting it in....It was dead on with boiling water. The stock gauge was reading 220-230 but the new gauge was 180-190. I plan on leaving it in place as a back up even after I install the temperature gauge adjustable resistor that Wilcox offers.
Here is a pic of the gauge I used...Cheap to 18 bucks.
230. If you look at the first mark as 225, the next as 230, 235 the spacing would make the start of the red 245 and the spacing from there to 260 would appear right. Really lame gauge, but none the less, the temp is running high. I don't like when mine runs 200. Good luck.
As Flyeri stated, anything over that 210 is a real concern. Looking at the gauge in the photo, I can't tell you exactly what the temperature is, but I would use an infrared thermometer and aim it right at the thermostat housing. That will be the hottest the coolant will be as it leaves the engine. Also a comparison to the temperature leaving the radiator might help finding out what's going on. Is this an automatic? Is the coolant a 50/50 mix? The infrareds have come down in price and even a cheap one is going to be accurate to a degree or two. You don't need one that is accurate to .1 degree and borrowing one is even better.
the oem aux fan was never meant to cool by itself. it was a supplement to the clutch fan.
during AC use. get a HD clutch for the engine driven fan and use both.
the oem aux fan was never meant to cool by itself. it was a supplement to the clutch fan.
during AC use. get a HD clutch for the engine driven fan and use both.
i read from a search a "member" used only the aux fan and had no issues, yesterday was a very hot day in los angeles, but i need to supplement the aux
That fan is an aux unit operating off a switch on the pass side head. It only comes on when the stock fan cannot keep up with the heat load.
It will not cool that car by itself, and the switch comes on only at higher temps.
The A/C does not control it, only high temps.
That fan is an aux unit operating off a switch on the pass side head. It only comes on when the stock fan cannot keep up with the heat load.
It will not cool that car by itself, and the switch comes on only at higher temps.
The A/C does not control it, only high temps.
i could not take the sensor off , it is seized in there, i put in a variable controller, with a tube in the radiator, you are right the aux is too weak for daily chores....
Hence why it's called an 'auxiliary'. With the car being an A/C equipped model, as stated earlier, you need to make sure you have the HD clutch on the original fan - and that it works. Proper insulation around the radiator to force the air where you want, as well as an intact fan shroud, and you should notice a significant difference.
You may feel the need to go to electric fans, and many guys here have made the switch quite easily and efficiently.
Either way, I have to agree with the guys that merely using a 'back up' factory part to do the full job just isn't gonna cut it. Especially in your climate and traffic environment.
Hence why it's called an 'auxiliary'. With the car being an A/C equipped model, as stated earlier, you need to make sure you have the HD clutch on the original fan - and that it works. Proper insulation around the radiator to force the air where you want, as well as an intact fan shroud, and you should notice a significant difference.
You may feel the need to go to electric fans, and many guys here have made the switch quite easily and efficiently.
Either way, I have to agree with the guys that merely using a 'back up' factory part to do the full job just isn't gonna cut it. Especially in your climate and traffic environment.
Good luck.
what is a HD? clutch vs a normal clutch?, i have the stock one and don't know squat as to what the clutch suppose to do or not do
normal usually spins the fan at about 60% shaft speed. and hd turns it about 80-90% of shaft speed. most auto parts stores only carry the normal clutch. rockauto carries the HD thermal one usually came on the 79 L82 model and earlier.
what is a HD? clutch vs a normal clutch?, i have the stock one and don't know squat as to what the clutch suppose to do or not do
A properly working clutch fan operates on temperature, when the engine is hot, the fan will engage to help cool. A properly working fan will spin fairly free when the unit is cold and tighten up as it gets hot. When hot, the fan blades move more air as the temperature increases. So, do you have the mechanical fan in place and if so is it working correctly?
The clutch is replaceable and the fan bolts to it. If you replace your clutch, make sure of the correct shaft diameter (water pump shaft that sticks out to center the fan) before leaving the parts store.
I have a 383 with a stock radiator, no aux. fan and on a 90 degree day I don't go above 210. I did replace the clutch fan when I dropped the engine in.
08-27-2015, 05:45 PM
don't know how to read my water gauge again (pics)
