76strokervette

I agree I looked your cam on the summit website and Howards suggests a 3500 stall for that camshaft.The stated powerband is 2800 to 6400 rpm.

Aggitated Monkey

I guess I'll see how it drives. Skip White and Mad Dog Trans recommended 2200. So I went with that.

Not stealing this thread. The comparables relate. Maybe the OPs 2800 is the better choice for street. I think more stall than that is too much for daily driving.

Like to hear how the 2800 performs....

Cool bean

Sure thing, I will definitely report back. I'm going to try the existing motor and torque converter together to see what it feels like, which works out well for both my education and also my budget. It will take a few weeks to get the rest of the parts in and do the swap.

gkull

Your engine builder and tranny guys don't know how to make informed decisions. You are way over cammed, rough idle, poor street manners. AS per Howard cams. They say to use a 3500 stall. My 383 had less cam and I used a 3800 stall and I used to drive about 10,000 annually

Summit Racing Part Number:
HRS-180345-10




UPC:
840793108329


Cam Style:
Hydraulic roller tappet


Basic Operating RPM Range:
2,600-6,400


Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:
247


Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:
253


Duration at 050 inch Lift:
247 int./253 exh.


Advertised Intake Duration:
300


Advertised Exhaust Duration:
306


Advertised Duration:
300 int./306 exh.


Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.565 in.


Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.580 in.


Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.565 int./0.580 exh.


Lobe Separation (degrees):
110


Camshaft Gear Attachment:
3-bolt


Computer-Controlled Compatible:
No


Valve Springs Required:
Yes


Camshaft Manufacturers Description:
Rough idle, needs good heads. Good upper midrange. Needs 3,500+ stall.

toobroketoretire

Small blocks and long duration camshafts often need a higher stall speed so they can idle in gear. I'm running a stock torque converter behind my 454" with a 236/236 duration camshaft but it'll idle at 550 rpm in DRIVE okay because of the amount of torque at idle..

Aggitated Monkey

Got my car running last night. Put about 20 miles on it. Gkull is correct I should have more converter with my cam. 2200 stall is tolerate however it would be nicer with a higher stall.

Cool Beans have you ran yours yet?

bluedawg

I've had 3200 rpm stalls on the street for daily driving, a decent stall converter will function like normal until you step on it, but I guess it's along the same lines with street manners, everyone has a different threshold of what are good manners and what's purely for the strip. I think most will agree that not having enough stall is a bad scenario.

Cool bean

@AggitatedMonkey, nah, i haven't run it yet. I'm ordering the rest of the parts tonight to do the drivetrain swap. What I've learned since posting is that the tc is a 12", is made by Transmission Specialties, and the original rating is 2400-2800. I'm felling more optimistic about a possible good match. I should be able to report back in 3-4 weeks.

bluedawg

The first sign of a bad match will be not wanting to idle in gear as it will want to idle at to high of rpm and a hard shift from park to gear which you having 2800 already probably won't notice so much, but I remember when I was 16 I put a cam in the 350 in my truck with a stock stall and that was the case. Next sign will be the car actually feeling as if it comes alive at a higher rpm and being a little doggy of the line, the difference from 2800 and 3500 rpm will make a difference, but try it and see, the only sucky part is to pull the tranny in the future if you decide to change.

Aggitated Monkey

Any progress on the stall converter? I did end up changing mine. My cam calls for 3500 stall as mentioned earlier. I'm hard headed so I went with 2800 stall. Drives very nice and idles nice with my big cam. Drops in gear like stock. However with my foot in it its a monster. Just wonder how your car was running with the stall you have. Update us.

toobroketoretire

If you are really wanting a different stall speed I would limit it to 2000 rpm or it'll feel real "loose" in all the gears until the revs exceed 2000 rpm. Many people make the big mistake of buying a stall speed that is way too high and then their overall performance suffers. High stall converters are needed for "off the line" drag racing but if you seldom give it a full throttle from a standing start you're much better off using a stock stall speed.

Cool bean

No, I dont have the engine back in yet; I got delayed by upgrades: radiator, headlight vacuum overhaul, a/c refresh, hvac vacuum refresh, wire harness replacement, engine compartment paint & cleanup, heat shield, blah blah blah. (I now understand why some forum choose not to keep track of costs...) I can't wait to report back, but nothing yet.

Aggitated Monkey

Sounds like you have been busy. I work on mine most week ends and have approx 150 hours in it. Now I have driven itittle over 100 miles. Paint will. Be next. I found the 2800 drives nicely and idles in gear. Very happy with it. It did not idle with the 2200.

gkull

I guess that you have never been around or installed highly efficient TC's. Generally they do cost $800 - $1400 for the 9.5 inch. The other added benefit is that they weight about !/2 of a 12 inch stock. It is like putting a light weight flywheel in a manual tranny car. years ago I had a dragster with an 8 inch 6500 stall and after the run you could just drive on the return road to the pits and it didn't even feel loose.

I've cut some of my stock and cheaper TC's in 1/2 to see what failed just behind a hot rodded 355 ci. The first time i power braked my 12 inch equipped TCI 700r the stator spline shattered. I just said screw this cheap junk and bought the best. I never had a problem as my motors continued to get bigger and my slicks got bigger

diehrd

How do such myths continue to be spouted about torque converters.

It is all I can do to not say something rude

TORQUE converters MULTIPLY torque ,, until they reach stall speed where at that point it transfers power on about a 1 to 1 basis with your crank shafts rotation. ( About 1 to 1 because there is some inefficiency in the system) Later technology introduced lock up which mechanically locked the unit to the rpm output of the crankshaft

Down low at idle and light throttle or a steady drive the converter behaves like any converter in any car , you can not feel it , the car does not "slip while in gear " or do anything you would consider bad street mannered.

Evert time you see tach drop to about 1500 i am in O/D ( 4L80e ) ANy time you see tach drop to 1000 or so i am letting off throttle .

3600 Stall PTC Converters

gkull

Great video, thanks! Funny thing is that you sound like you are from upstate NY

Aggitated Monkey

I had refrained from any comment to toobroke as I could not beleive what was stated. This information is the correct answer. Thanks for the viedo. GKULL has provided great information also.

diehrd

LMAO watch it Nevada

Rcdizy

I have a 406 CI with a 700R4 475HP
3:90 gears

idles at 900 RPM


I am new to fast cars and corvettes but I like the way it drives.
Drives completely normal like any other car under part throttle driving..., and when you floor it, I like it too.

Revs at 2200 if i remember in OD
and in lock up 2000RPM

lionelhutz

He probably "built" his own high stall converter. He would never pay the money for a quality converter like a PTC and I doubt he has any car "buddies" with one so like many other topics, he has no clue what he's talking about here either.

Since the OP has that 2800rpm stall converter, he might as well try it first. But, he may find it's not great unless it's a higher quality unit.