79door pannel removel
09-04-2015, 09:34 AM
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
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Cruise-In II Veteran
Arm rest screws; trim screws in the panel; door latch trim; remote mirror toggle. With those removed, the velcro fasteners should be the only things holding it.
09-04-2015, 02:22 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2015
Location: Cape Girardeau Missouri
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On a '79:
Remove the lock **** in the armrest.
Remove the three screws (#3 Phillips ONLY) from the armrest and remove the armrest.
Remove one machine screw from the opening lever trim and remove the trim.
Remove two screws from the mirror control (presuming you have the inside adjustable mirror).
Remove screw (#2 Pozi but Phillips works) from the top upper rear corner.
Remove two screws (#2 Pozi) one from each side of the panel. One is near the lower rear part of the carpeted area, the other is other is nearly under the upper front corner of the storage pocket.
Push the panel up to release it then feed the window control through the hole and disconnect the power lock (if equipped) switch connector.
-------------------------------------
Having recently gone through numerous door issues in my '79 (everything save one window motor seemed original), I suspect that you need to do a LOT more than simply replace the motor!!!!
Make certain that the regulator has a working spring! If the window went down significantly faster than it went up the spring is almost certainly broken--a broken spring causes excessive strain on the motor.
Make certain that there are no broken or excessively worn teeth on the regulator arm that engages with the motor gear.
Remove and thoroughly clean the three tracks. Most or all of the rollers will probably need to be replaced. After cleaning they should all turn freely. The front and sliding rollers should not have any play; the three rollers attached to the regulator have a touch of in-out play that allows them to rock slightly. Use chassis or white lithium grease (not spray white lithium) to lubricate tracks/rollers/gears when reassembling.
The adjustable felted stops that press against the inside of the glass are likely shot.
The plastic water barrier behind the door panel is probably in tatters if even present. Precut "insulation" sheets are widely available and inexpensive.
If your outside and/or inside locks are stiff and difficult to operate (likely), it's time to remove, clean, lubricate, and reinstall replacing defective items as necessary. If you have power locks the actuator should move extremely easily when you operate it by hand.
Since this seems to be your first C3 door to work on, expect to spend quite a few hours and a fair amount of money to get everything working properly. While I did mainly the same things to both of my doors, I worked on the driver door first and it took me at least twice as long as the passenger.
Remove the lock **** in the armrest.
Remove the three screws (#3 Phillips ONLY) from the armrest and remove the armrest.
Remove one machine screw from the opening lever trim and remove the trim.
Remove two screws from the mirror control (presuming you have the inside adjustable mirror).
Remove screw (#2 Pozi but Phillips works) from the top upper rear corner.
Remove two screws (#2 Pozi) one from each side of the panel. One is near the lower rear part of the carpeted area, the other is other is nearly under the upper front corner of the storage pocket.
Push the panel up to release it then feed the window control through the hole and disconnect the power lock (if equipped) switch connector.
-------------------------------------
Having recently gone through numerous door issues in my '79 (everything save one window motor seemed original), I suspect that you need to do a LOT more than simply replace the motor!!!!
Make certain that the regulator has a working spring! If the window went down significantly faster than it went up the spring is almost certainly broken--a broken spring causes excessive strain on the motor.
Make certain that there are no broken or excessively worn teeth on the regulator arm that engages with the motor gear.
Remove and thoroughly clean the three tracks. Most or all of the rollers will probably need to be replaced. After cleaning they should all turn freely. The front and sliding rollers should not have any play; the three rollers attached to the regulator have a touch of in-out play that allows them to rock slightly. Use chassis or white lithium grease (not spray white lithium) to lubricate tracks/rollers/gears when reassembling.
The adjustable felted stops that press against the inside of the glass are likely shot.
The plastic water barrier behind the door panel is probably in tatters if even present. Precut "insulation" sheets are widely available and inexpensive.
If your outside and/or inside locks are stiff and difficult to operate (likely), it's time to remove, clean, lubricate, and reinstall replacing defective items as necessary. If you have power locks the actuator should move extremely easily when you operate it by hand.
Since this seems to be your first C3 door to work on, expect to spend quite a few hours and a fair amount of money to get everything working properly. While I did mainly the same things to both of my doors, I worked on the driver door first and it took me at least twice as long as the passenger.
09-04-2015, 02:49 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
I'm Bookmarking this. I've got new panels in garage waiting to be installed. I plan to freshen up all the internals as well. Thanks for all the great info. 
09-04-2015, 03:17 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2015
Location: Cape Girardeau Missouri
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Here's a link to another thread that helped me. Of HIGH use is that image of the installed regulator and window with the outer skin of the door removed from jdp6000!
I chose to rebuild my regulators instead of replacing them as they had only minor surface rusting and the gear teeth were in perfect condition. While I suppose it's possible to come up with some sort of jig so one person can replace the spring, it only take a couple minutes with a helper. I can't exactly describe the process but one person uses their hand and foot to the arms to "load" the spring while the other uses a stout screwdriver to get the outer "hook" of the spring over the big pin. Since the regulator doesn't even move 180 degrees you don't have to truly wind the spring.
I chose to rebuild my regulators instead of replacing them as they had only minor surface rusting and the gear teeth were in perfect condition. While I suppose it's possible to come up with some sort of jig so one person can replace the spring, it only take a couple minutes with a helper. I can't exactly describe the process but one person uses their hand and foot to the arms to "load" the spring while the other uses a stout screwdriver to get the outer "hook" of the spring over the big pin. Since the regulator doesn't even move 180 degrees you don't have to truly wind the spring.
09-04-2015, 03:47 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2015
Location: Cape Girardeau Missouri
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Back to the op:
You will soon discover the reason why I said to get everything working properly! Removing the window and regulator with a non-working motor is a nasty enough job that you will NEVER want to have to do it again!
The motor itself can be removed from the regulator but only if you install a bolt and nut between holes two arms of the regulator there for just that purpose. The holes only align in one position of the window so it's unlikely that your window is frozen in that spot. Unless you are 100% positive that the regulator spring is either missing or broken do NOT remove the motor without the arms locked as the most likely result is a trip to the emergency room after a thin, strong, sharp edged, stamped metal arm slams down on your hand/fingers/arm with high force!!!!!
A few other things to do/keep in mind:
1) Presuming you're getting a rebuilt motor (I don't believe new OEM ones are available) where you return a core, be CERTAIN to remove the little bracket from the motor! It does not come with the replacement.
2) While you might be able to find all the information you need free on the internet, I still suggest getting factory service and assembly manuals in either electronic or physical form.
3) Adjusting the glass can be an absolute pain! If you're lucky the tracks and other pieces will bear a single, clear set of witness marks where the nuts attached. You may find it seemingly impossible to move the glass rearward sufficiently to get a good seal at the rear edge. Before you start cutting metal to allow greater adjustment take a GOOD look at your weatherstripping. While mine looked quite good (for being 30+ years old) upon replacement I discovered that both the rear pillar weatherstrip piece and the upper rear corner of the door main weatherstrip were damaged such that it only seemed as if the glass couldn't go far enough rearward. With the new weatherstripping installed everything seals nicely and I didn't have to make any modifications.
You will soon discover the reason why I said to get everything working properly! Removing the window and regulator with a non-working motor is a nasty enough job that you will NEVER want to have to do it again!
The motor itself can be removed from the regulator but only if you install a bolt and nut between holes two arms of the regulator there for just that purpose. The holes only align in one position of the window so it's unlikely that your window is frozen in that spot. Unless you are 100% positive that the regulator spring is either missing or broken do NOT remove the motor without the arms locked as the most likely result is a trip to the emergency room after a thin, strong, sharp edged, stamped metal arm slams down on your hand/fingers/arm with high force!!!!!
A few other things to do/keep in mind:
1) Presuming you're getting a rebuilt motor (I don't believe new OEM ones are available) where you return a core, be CERTAIN to remove the little bracket from the motor! It does not come with the replacement.
2) While you might be able to find all the information you need free on the internet, I still suggest getting factory service and assembly manuals in either electronic or physical form.
3) Adjusting the glass can be an absolute pain! If you're lucky the tracks and other pieces will bear a single, clear set of witness marks where the nuts attached. You may find it seemingly impossible to move the glass rearward sufficiently to get a good seal at the rear edge. Before you start cutting metal to allow greater adjustment take a GOOD look at your weatherstripping. While mine looked quite good (for being 30+ years old) upon replacement I discovered that both the rear pillar weatherstrip piece and the upper rear corner of the door main weatherstrip were damaged such that it only seemed as if the glass couldn't go far enough rearward. With the new weatherstripping installed everything seals nicely and I didn't have to make any modifications.