Holley loose piece ID and jetting questions
#1
Instructor
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Holley loose piece ID and jetting questions
Hi,
Picked up a used Holley 4160 and cleaning it up. Took off the front bowl and there was a loose plastic piece in there that I can not find on the exploded pics.
It will be going on a street 427 build with TKO600 and I typically cruise at 2000 and under for the most part. The holley has 69 jets in primary and the metering plate on the back that equals #76. Power valve is 6.5. It came off a small block and PO downsized to a 650cfm.
Appreciate help with the part ID and ideas on the jets and metering plate. Trying to keep cost down and best mpg, so do not plan on doing the conversion to make it a 4150.
For the power valve, I can take the vacuum measurement with the current carb to make sure the 6.5 is good, right?
Thanks
Picked up a used Holley 4160 and cleaning it up. Took off the front bowl and there was a loose plastic piece in there that I can not find on the exploded pics.
It will be going on a street 427 build with TKO600 and I typically cruise at 2000 and under for the most part. The holley has 69 jets in primary and the metering plate on the back that equals #76. Power valve is 6.5. It came off a small block and PO downsized to a 650cfm.
Appreciate help with the part ID and ideas on the jets and metering plate. Trying to keep cost down and best mpg, so do not plan on doing the conversion to make it a 4150.
For the power valve, I can take the vacuum measurement with the current carb to make sure the 6.5 is good, right?
Thanks
#2
Looks to be a primary vent baffle for a Holley 3310 List 4160 version.
Hangs at the top of the 2 upper stubs that hold the gasket on to the meter block. Keeps fuel from sloshing out the vent tube.
69/76/6.5 power valve is a good place to start. Make sure you square of the idle transfer slots on the base plate while you have it off.
Dave
Hangs at the top of the 2 upper stubs that hold the gasket on to the meter block. Keeps fuel from sloshing out the vent tube.
69/76/6.5 power valve is a good place to start. Make sure you square of the idle transfer slots on the base plate while you have it off.
Dave
#3
Melting Slicks
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You must trash those obsolete hollow plastic floats and replace them with the black solid-foam "Nytrophil" floats because the plastic floats will fill with gasoline and then flooding starts.
#4
Melting Slicks
Funny, I just replaced my nitrophil floats because the carb always flooded when the fuel got hot. Went to metal floats, all is good!
#5
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19
at 2000 rpm and below your usually not running on the main jet so changing it will have little effect on the AFR.
whats the list # for the carb?
Neal
whats the list # for the carb?
Neal
#6
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Good catch on the baffle, looks like it was supposed to be mounted with the two eyes under the gasket to keep it in place.
Order put in for the floats, rebuild kit and a set of 72 jets to leverage the shipping I was already paying for. First Holley, so didn't have any other parts laying around yet to work with.
With the TKO, I'm running about 1800 at 65 and 2000 at 70MPH. My friends tease me for driving too slow all the time, most I've taken it up to is about 3000 before shifting.
Looks to be this guy:
3310-4 750 (F)72,(R)plate 134-21 6.5 4160
That matches the rear plate and the power valve in it and 3310-4 is stamped on it.
Order put in for the floats, rebuild kit and a set of 72 jets to leverage the shipping I was already paying for. First Holley, so didn't have any other parts laying around yet to work with.
With the TKO, I'm running about 1800 at 65 and 2000 at 70MPH. My friends tease me for driving too slow all the time, most I've taken it up to is about 3000 before shifting.
Looks to be this guy:
3310-4 750 (F)72,(R)plate 134-21 6.5 4160
That matches the rear plate and the power valve in it and 3310-4 is stamped on it.
#7