Buzzardz_vette

Sent this to Jim Shea, but thought I'd out it here as well to see if anyone here has seen this. The horn on my 75 doesn’t work. Here’s the status so far:

• Installed a Steeroids Rack and Pinion steering system.

• Removed the standard steering column and replaced with a TT column from a 76, at least I think it is since it had a 76 wheel attached. I say this because the tilt and turn signal levers that I had to buy (for a 76) did not fit in the holes, the threads on the levers were too big ( 1/4 versus M6 that is on the column). Don’t know why the column has M6, but that is the only size that would fit. Had to recut the thread to M6 to fit the levers.

• Installed a steering wheel upgrade kit to use a three spoke steering wheel.



Horn doesn’t work so ran the Horn Diagnostic troubleshooting checklist (See attached for steps):

1) Horn works
2) Relay works
3) Have continuity from the third black wire to the eyelet plunger. Also found the I can touch anywhere on the horn switch assembly, even the part you depress to make the horn work and I get continuity (see pic below). Is this supposed to happen? All new parts that came with the kit except the shims.



4) Not sure what to do here as I don’t have the flexible coupling. Connected a meter from the third wire to the Steeroids coupling at the end of the steering column and didn’t get continuity even when I depressed the horn.



Tried to run a new wire directly from the third wire in the harness to the lower horn contact spring to see if the internal wire was bad even though I got good continuity. When the battery was switched on, the horn sounded continuously indicating that it was grounded. That shouldn't happen should it?

I don’t know what to do now. Any ideas?

Thanks.

Daryl Villareal
Buzzardz_vette

0Willcox Corvette

The system is hot all the time and waiting for ground on the third black wire.

So from A to B you should have continuity and when you touch a screw driver from B to ground the horn should blow. Yo should not be able to touch ground to the retainer portion of the upper contact that holds the horn button in place and make the horns blow. It should be insulated until depressed.

Willcox

AvRog

dembo

Long shot but is the L part of the horn button contact (the one with the three screws) actually pushing on the pin (A in Willcox's picture) (maybe T&T is different then a standard column)
I clocked it wrong last week and spend half a day figuring out why my horn didn't work anymore) ..
Nick

Buzzardz_vette

Yes, I made sure it is making contact.

Buzzardz_vette

[QUOTE=Willcox Corvette;1590635883]The system is hot all the time and waiting for ground on the third black wire.

So from A to B you should have continuity and when you touch a screw driver from B to ground the horn should blow. (It does) Yo should not be able to touch ground to the retainer portion of the upper contact that holds the horn button in place and make the horns blow. (It does when I touch a ground wire from the harness to it. Maybe it's suppose to since the retainer is connected to the steering column through the three screws that hold it in. I just don't think it should show continuity back to the steering column harness connector) It should be insulated until depressed. (Seems to be insulated, it's brand new, but the horn doesn't blow when depressed)

Willcox