Flywheel
10-05-2015, 11:28 AM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Flywheel
Hi,
I'm looking for new flywheel.
I would like to get alu. flywheel. Engine will be with mini starter.
1969 L46 engine with std M20 BUT T5 WC 5 speed will go into the car. The flywheel will NOT be used with my M20 transmission.
What is the weight for at std. GM 1969 flywheel??
I'm also looking for something for my other engine:
Brand new Dart SHP (Internally balanced) sbc 427 with TH200R4 transmission.
I'm looking for new flywheel.
I would like to get alu. flywheel. Engine will be with mini starter.
1969 L46 engine with std M20 BUT T5 WC 5 speed will go into the car. The flywheel will NOT be used with my M20 transmission.
What is the weight for at std. GM 1969 flywheel??
I'm also looking for something for my other engine:
Brand new Dart SHP (Internally balanced) sbc 427 with TH200R4 transmission.
Last edited by c3_dk; 10-05-2015 at 12:27 PM.
10-06-2015, 09:16 AM
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
10-06-2015, 09:29 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
The 168 was the standard for almost all engines, except the really high performance ones like the L88, etc.
You can find both in a lightweight form factor, but the 153 tooth would have a lower rotating inertia than the 168 tooth since it is smaller in diameter. I doubt you will feel any difference between the two (lightweight) on a street car.
10-06-2015, 10:02 AM
#5
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The numbers refer to the number of teeth on the flywheel, either 153 or 168 tooth. The 153 tooth flywheels are smaller in diameter and, I believe, use a 10.5" clutch, while the 168 use the 11" clutch.
The 168 was the standard for almost all engines, except the really high performance ones like the L88, etc.
You can find both in a lightweight form factor, but the 153 tooth would have a lower rotating inertia than the 168 tooth since it is smaller in diameter. I doubt you will feel any difference between the two (lightweight) on a street car.
The 168 was the standard for almost all engines, except the really high performance ones like the L88, etc.
You can find both in a lightweight form factor, but the 153 tooth would have a lower rotating inertia than the 168 tooth since it is smaller in diameter. I doubt you will feel any difference between the two (lightweight) on a street car.
And as I understand it, then I have to look at my clutch, before I buy a flywheel, or is there a way to find out, what flywheel/clutch I have in my car?
Lets say I have 11" clutch, and it is toast, is the best then a 10.5" or 11" clutch?
10-07-2015, 05:48 AM
#6
Melting Slicks
My 6t8 OEM 350hp 327 came with the 153 tooth flywheel.
If your car has an 11 inch dics it required a different bell housing. The last 3 numbers should be 621 in the casting.
As far as which is better, I suspect bigger is always better.
Example 1: 68 BBC 600+hp 5-speed, 373 screws is using an 11" with a puck type disc, with a scatter shield.
Example 2: my 6t8 SBC approx. 550hp 5speed and 373s has the 10.5" puck type disc, also using a scatter shield.
I'll see if I can find that part number you requested. T
Fidanza 198571 168 tooth
198541 153 tooth
both are SFI rated and for internal balanced engines, with a replaceable clutch surface.
If your car has an 11 inch dics it required a different bell housing. The last 3 numbers should be 621 in the casting.
As far as which is better, I suspect bigger is always better.
Example 1: 68 BBC 600+hp 5-speed, 373 screws is using an 11" with a puck type disc, with a scatter shield.
Example 2: my 6t8 SBC approx. 550hp 5speed and 373s has the 10.5" puck type disc, also using a scatter shield.
I'll see if I can find that part number you requested. T
Fidanza 198571 168 tooth
198541 153 tooth
both are SFI rated and for internal balanced engines, with a replaceable clutch surface.
Last edited by terrys6t8roadster; 10-07-2015 at 06:13 AM.
10-07-2015, 07:52 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
Terry, how do you like that 11 lb clutch? I debated going with the same one you put in last year but wasn't sure how I would like it on a street only setup. On my last engine I had a lighter weight clutch but I also used to run 1/4's. Loved how fast it would spin up but it would also decelerate very quickly if I just let right off the gas.
10-10-2015, 07:05 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
When I first purchased the 6t8[25+years ago] it had no fan schroud and an aluminum 7 blade fixed fan. Converted to electric fan and realized that any way to reduce engine drag increased engine speed. I also run a 6" balancer, but as you noticed the drive ability decreased when you drop the weight causing continuous changes in engine speed. On the track excellent performance gain, but road cruising not so much. Last winter we put a lighter weight steel flywheel [approx. 22#] behind a BBC and we all liked the drive ability of that setup. T
10-10-2015, 03:10 PM
#9
Safety Car
Thread Starter
When I first purchased the 6t8[25+years ago] it had no fan schroud and an aluminum 7 blade fixed fan. Converted to electric fan and realized that any way to reduce engine drag increased engine speed. I also run a 6" balancer, but as you noticed the drive ability decreased when you drop the weight causing continuous changes in engine speed. On the track excellent performance gain, but road cruising not so much. Last winter we put a lighter weight steel flywheel [approx. 22#] behind a BBC and we all liked the drive ability of that setup. T
10-11-2015, 06:03 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
Isn't this for your second vette? I also thought you were building a pretty stout engine for that car. So my opinion is no for a street car possibly Autoban cruiser. If you can find a flywheel in the 20 pound range you'll have some good in both. The momentum loss in going from a 30+ lb flywheel to a 11lb at 70mph is very noticeable, but also is the 2k to 7k rpm speed increase. You will really like the acceleration, but maintaining a constant engine speed requires constant attention. Just remember IT'S your vette, your call. T
10-11-2015, 11:02 AM
#11
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Isn't this for your second vette? I also thought you were building a pretty stout engine for that car. So my opinion is no for a street car possibly Autoban cruiser. If you can find a flywheel in the 20 pound range you'll have some good in both. The momentum loss in going from a 30+ lb flywheel to a 11lb at 70mph is very noticeable, but also is the 2k to 7k rpm speed increase. You will really like the acceleration, but maintaining a constant engine speed requires constant attention. Just remember IT'S your vette, your call. T
This is for my SBC 69 Convertible, 4 speed (have a 5 speed in stock, that will come into the car), 3.70 rear.
I see your point, going to light can be bad, in a street car, I will get fast acceleration, both will loose momentum.
So I think you have a good point, if I change flywheel, then something in between will be better for at street car.
Thx for your help.
10-11-2015, 12:35 PM
#12
Safety Car
Thread Starter
My 6t8 OEM 350hp 327 came with the 153 tooth flywheel.
If your car has an 11 inch dics it required a different bell housing. The last 3 numbers should be 621 in the casting.
As far as which is better, I suspect bigger is always better.
Example 1: 68 BBC 600+hp 5-speed, 373 screws is using an 11" with a puck type disc, with a scatter shield.
Example 2: my 6t8 SBC approx. 550hp 5speed and 373s has the 10.5" puck type disc, also using a scatter shield.
I'll see if I can find that part number you requested. T
Fidanza 198571 168 tooth
198541 153 tooth
both are SFI rated and for internal balanced engines, with a replaceable clutch surface.
If your car has an 11 inch dics it required a different bell housing. The last 3 numbers should be 621 in the casting.
As far as which is better, I suspect bigger is always better.
Example 1: 68 BBC 600+hp 5-speed, 373 screws is using an 11" with a puck type disc, with a scatter shield.
Example 2: my 6t8 SBC approx. 550hp 5speed and 373s has the 10.5" puck type disc, also using a scatter shield.
I'll see if I can find that part number you requested. T
Fidanza 198571 168 tooth
198541 153 tooth
both are SFI rated and for internal balanced engines, with a replaceable clutch surface.
So I assume I have 168 tooth.
Last edited by c3_dk; 10-11-2015 at 01:04 PM.
10-11-2015, 05:55 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
IMHO the only reasons anyone ever has trouble with running a lighter flywheel on the street are typically either due to the car in question being significantly underpowered and/or its driver lacking sufficient motivation to improve their driving skills. YMMV.
Admittedly, not everyone is concerned with operating in the AX/RR corner of the performance envelope, but I highly recommend that anyone who aspires to becoming better at carving up the twisty bits strongly consider reducing this particular mass. Even a modest step down to the 20-25# range should make it noticeably easier to match RPMs when downshifting in anger. And FWIW, I've found 12-15# ones (typically behind a 427) much to my liking on the street. My $.02, PayPal accepted.
TSW
Admittedly, not everyone is concerned with operating in the AX/RR corner of the performance envelope, but I highly recommend that anyone who aspires to becoming better at carving up the twisty bits strongly consider reducing this particular mass. Even a modest step down to the 20-25# range should make it noticeably easier to match RPMs when downshifting in anger. And FWIW, I've found 12-15# ones (typically behind a 427) much to my liking on the street. My $.02, PayPal accepted.
TSW
10-12-2015, 12:02 PM
#15
Safety Car
Thread Starter
IMHO the only reasons anyone ever has trouble with running a lighter flywheel on the street are typically either due to the car in question being significantly underpowered and/or its driver lacking sufficient motivation to improve their driving skills. YMMV.
Admittedly, not everyone is concerned with operating in the AX/RR corner of the performance envelope, but I highly recommend that anyone who aspires to becoming better at carving up the twisty bits strongly consider reducing this particular mass. Even a modest step down to the 20-25# range should make it noticeably easier to match RPMs when downshifting in anger. And FWIW, I've found 12-15# ones (typically behind a 427) much to my liking on the street. My $.02, PayPal accepted.
TSW
Admittedly, not everyone is concerned with operating in the AX/RR corner of the performance envelope, but I highly recommend that anyone who aspires to becoming better at carving up the twisty bits strongly consider reducing this particular mass. Even a modest step down to the 20-25# range should make it noticeably easier to match RPMs when downshifting in anger. And FWIW, I've found 12-15# ones (typically behind a 427) much to my liking on the street. My $.02, PayPal accepted.
TSW
My engine is not underpowered, so that will not be my problem.
But I think I will start with a 20# range, in steel.
The drive train will be 11, I have 3.70 rear and 2.95 in first gear (when I've installed my new transmission) in my convertible. So with a light flywheel I think I will get a nice launch.
10-12-2015, 08:35 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
20'ish is a decent compromise for many an enthusiast. Given your use of the term "launch" I'd urge stepping up to SFI equipment and a true scattershield. The way I tend to abuse things I have a hard time trusting anything less on hi-perf applications.
10-12-2015, 11:46 PM
#17
Le Mans Master
Using SFI approved parts and a good scattershield is a really inexpensive way to protect your parts. Car parts, and more importantly, BODY parts. Investing in SFI parts is cheaper than the time in the hospital recovering.
10-13-2015, 09:19 AM
#18
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Thx both.
I will use SFI parts, the link above is a SFI flywheel.(is it a good flywheel??)
Can one of you send me a link for a good true scattershield?
10-13-2015, 04:34 PM
#19
Le Mans Master
Here you go...
http://lakewoodindustries.com/safety...ing-chevy.html
http://lakewoodindustries.com/drivet...-sag-bell.html
Summit carries them both. FWIW, I've run the Lakewood (w/plate) on a couple of C3s, but will be going with the QuickTime this time around to save ~20 lbs. Either are good pieces, depending on whether the # savings is worth the extra $, but based on my experience don't be surprised if you need offset dowels to dial in the LW.
.
http://lakewoodindustries.com/safety...ing-chevy.html
http://lakewoodindustries.com/drivet...-sag-bell.html
Summit carries them both. FWIW, I've run the Lakewood (w/plate) on a couple of C3s, but will be going with the QuickTime this time around to save ~20 lbs. Either are good pieces, depending on whether the # savings is worth the extra $, but based on my experience don't be surprised if you need offset dowels to dial in the LW.
.
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; 10-13-2015 at 04:39 PM.
10-15-2015, 08:25 AM
#20
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Here you go...
http://lakewoodindustries.com/safety...ing-chevy.html
http://lakewoodindustries.com/drivet...-sag-bell.html
Summit carries them both. FWIW, I've run the Lakewood (w/plate) on a couple of C3s, but will be going with the QuickTime this time around to save ~20 lbs. Either are good pieces, depending on whether the # savings is worth the extra $, but based on my experience don't be surprised if you need offset dowels to dial in the LW.
.
http://lakewoodindustries.com/safety...ing-chevy.html
http://lakewoodindustries.com/drivet...-sag-bell.html
Summit carries them both. FWIW, I've run the Lakewood (w/plate) on a couple of C3s, but will be going with the QuickTime this time around to save ~20 lbs. Either are good pieces, depending on whether the # savings is worth the extra $, but based on my experience don't be surprised if you need offset dowels to dial in the LW.
.
