anesthes

That is how you do it on a T56. It doesn't have a retainer in the front like a T5/T10, saginaw, etc.


It's an LT1 T56. The front plate is different on both i.e, the part that bracket is bolted to that holds the stud for the TOB, that is at a completely different angle and spot on the LS1 version. Also the input shaft is an LT1 style, you can tell by the nose for the pilot bearing.

Isn't that part# only for an LS1 version ? I assumed due to the length of the input shaft, you'd need a special stepped pilot bushing if you use it with a LT1 T56.

-- Joe

bmans vette

The QT # is for the LS1 version but mates up to a 2pc RMS SBC. It is a one use type scattershield which is why it sells for $500-600. I found one for $450 new. You do use a pilot bushing to match the LS1 input shaft.
Good questions/points.
And even more reason for the OP to do his homework as he progresses with this project.

Bman

anesthes

Yep, that's why I responded to his other thread when he said he got a T56.

My recommendation is to use ALL the parts he got (clutch, bellhousing, transmission) and get a new 153 tooth flywheel, and a master cylinder with mount bracket.

He's going to need to fabricate a mount/adapter, as well as driveshaft too.

-- Joe

MIKE80

I converted my LT1 T56 to a hydraulic throw out bearing.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-s-list-8.html

cv67

Gen 1 block F body T56 I used the GM fluted pilot bushing they are less than $10
Test fit it first on the shaft

Used a parts store bushing and boy was I sorry!

FWIW the fbody GM slave stinks theres such a fine line between disengaging and blowing the seal it isnt even funny. Dont trust mine, been through a few
Use a differrent one if you can

AboveTheLogic

Wow, OK, I was offline for a bit and got a lot of great replies. MIKE80 your threads are great, I'll give that one another read.

Right, here is another photo of that part:



Here's a better photo of the slave. Its a quarter master 721100, a part which sells for $200+ new.


Next to the pressure plate:


This confuses me. I don't know if I need any special bushings but I'm thinking that since this all came out of a working vehicle, I could put it all together with the custom flywheel and it should function with no other modifications between the trans and engine.

Considering the depth of the LT1 bellhousing vs. the super 10 bellhousing, I'm leaning towards using the LT1 housing and converting the car to hydraulic simply so avoid shortening the driveshaft more than necessary since I heard there may be some angle issues.

I'm not terribly worried about the crossmember and driveshaft piece. Its the hydraulic conversion that concerns me.

You guys said it, I need to do my homework more.

I drove the car again today... feels like a blown bearing in the super 10. Noisy but driveable, just a matter of time before it fails.

anesthes

That wasn't for you, that was in regards to using a LT1 T56 with the aftermarket scattershield he posted.

YOU have a working transmission and clutch setup. Just buy a bell housing, and a master cylinder with the vette firewall mount. Many threads on it.

Why, that stuff is "bolt on".

Shortening the driveshaft and making a mount is a bit more interesting.

I'd probably cut the old crossmember out, and make a new one out of DOM tubing and some 3/16" plate. Kinda sucks that manual cars had welded in crossmembers.

Then figure $100-200 to have the driveshaft shortened. I think I paid about $125 last time I had it done.

-- Joe

AboveTheLogic

I'm leaning towards using the LT1 bell housing/clutch/cylinder with a custom flywheel. What are you suggesting with buying a bell housing?

If you're saying that the hydraulic conversion stuff is bolt-on, that's not what I'm seeing. In my searches, I'm finding custom bracketry and trimmed pedal rods with concern of pushing the master cylinder's piston beyond its designed stopping point.

bmans vette

To ATL

Both of these guys' projects are good examples of what can be done with an LT1 T56.

Some of us started with just the trans and went all out on beefing it up and using a scattershield as opposed to an aluminum bellhousing.
Again...it all depends upon your choice of direction and budget.
Good luck with your project.
Keep posting as you progress.

Btw...many guys have cut out the fixed crossmember and just made adapter plates to make it into a bolt-in type. Or.... You can also buy an aftermarket one from some of the suppliers that make the T56 conversion kit.

Bman

AboveTheLogic

Response from Rockland Standard Gear when I asked about their LT1/LS1 kit that converts the LT1 T56 to the LS1 style:

I contacted Bowtie regarding their custom crossmember that MIKE80 has, here is the conversation:

My email:
His response:
I'm leaning heavily towards using the custom flywheel and bowtie's crossmember. I just need to figure out my parts and everything for the hydraulic conversion. I'll read up on that some more and eventually post back here with my shopping list. I'll have to make sure I include a starter in that shopping list. Bummer since I just put a new starter on this car.

anesthes

Sorry I meant flywheel that I linked earlier. Was in a rush typing.

You use an adjustable rod to the master..

AboveTheLogic

Regarding the gearing in the rear end, the local driveline shop here that I like and trust quoted me about $775 to regear if I bring in the third member and drop it off. It would be another $280 in labor if I bring in the whole car to have it done.

I was hoping the cost to regear would be under $500 because I thought I saw some gear sets for around $200 but I guess I was wrong.

This same shop did a complete rebuild of that rear end with a refurbished case last year for $1300. They do really good work but are not cheap.

$775 plus some of my time to change from 3.36 to 4.10. I have to think about it a bit. I definitely will want to change that gearing. At least I don't need to worry about it until the trans is in.

AboveTheLogic

It has been a couple of months and I haven't ordered any parts. I decided to pull the engine and trans out entirely and work out the mating of the T56 out of the car. It'll be some extra work but I think if I do it in the car it will be too frustrating.

This weekend I cleared out a spot in the garage for the job. I'll put it up on stands and begin the project during my holiday break. I might have the drivetrain out by new years:



I might end up doing some engine work while I have it all out. A head/cam swap is mighty tempting, although it already makes pretty good power.

AboveTheLogic

Joe, I don't understand why this is different. I have an LT1 trans that came out of an LT powered car that was converted to a push style clutch. Is it really true that I can use any 153 tooth flywheel for my Gen I SBC?

AboveTheLogic

Some progress pics:

Everything disconnected:

Cherry picker from the side because of the long nose

Something is missing

My buddy pulling the bellhousing off. We decided against pulling the engine and trans as a unit, so glad for that.

Out with the old. That old 4-speed is tiny!

anesthes

Yes. I'm assuming when you say it was converted to push style, it's using a hydraulic throwout bearing?

-- Joe

AboveTheLogic

Yes, it was converted to a hydraulic throwout bearing and is a push style. The conversion flywheels are $400+, a standard 153 tooth flywheel is under $200, so if I can use the standard non-conversion flywheel I'm all over it. I just don't understand why. It seems like I'm missing something. Using a non-conversion flywheel (I think) moves the entire clutch assembly further back towards the transmission, so there may be clearance issues with the bearing?

Maybe I need to get it all mocked up and do some measurements so I can understand it better... but if you or anyone can help explain it I'm all ears and very much appreciate it.

I may be confusing what I read about the LS1 vs LT1 engines. Something I read said that the flywheel mounting point protrudes further towards the rear of the car on the original SBC than it does on the newer engine, that might have been LS, though. I'll have to find that reference again.

anesthes

The bearing should have come with a bunch of shims. If not, you can get them cheap from howe or mcleod.

You have an LT1 trans and bellhousing.

The LT1 flywheel has a larger pocket where the bolts are, since the clutch disc mounts with with the spring sin the pocket.

That being said, I'd expect the LT1 flywheel to be thicker and closer to the transmission. So, I'd guess you need to add some shims to get your stackup distance to your pressure plate correct.

I'd buy the cheapest SFI approved 153 tooth flywheel you can afford. I like the SFI flywheels because they don't remove your feet when they get too hot.



-- Joe

AboveTheLogic

The SFI flywheels on summit are all in the $230-$260 range depending on the weight. They range from 9lb to 30lb.

That's not bad. I need to decide on flywheel weight.

If I'm understanding this correctly, going to a push style throwout allows me to solve clearance issues with shims, which makes perfect sense. I was afraid that using a standard flywheel with the short LT1 bell housing would give me too little room, hence the need for the conversion flywheel.

I'm not finding much during my searches to illustrate the real difference between the conversion 153 tooth flywheel and a standard 153 tooth flywheel so that I can see it for myself.

Summit has a pretty good return policy and I can see if I can find it locally as well. I'll shop around for a flywheel and then measure up what I have.

Thanks again for all the replies, very helpful.

anesthes

Not sure if you are on TGO, but this dude only wants $160 shipped:

http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engin...wheel-t56.html

2pc RMS T56 flywheel.

-- Joe