AboveTheLogic

According to his photo thats a 168-tooth flywheel, which I understand won't fit in my T56 bellhousing

anesthes

I didn't notice that. Got caught up on the title...

Lemme ask him.

-- Joe

AboveTheLogic

I went ahead and ordered the RAM-1510 flywheel from summit:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-1510

I also ordered some heads and a roller cam. Time to make this thing scream.

anesthes

Is it a roller block or did you buy retrofit cam, lifters, timing cover, cam button ?

-- Joe

AboveTheLogic

I bought the retrofit cam and kit that includes the lifters and bars. I still need to source a timing cover and cam button.

anesthes

On my 400, I used a cloyes clo-9-221, came with adjustable button. 2 pc alum cover.

-- Joe

AboveTheLogic

Thanks that's just what I needed.

You have been tremendously helpful, thanks so much!

I'll keep posting when I have updates. I haven't ordered any throwout bearing shims yet. I noticed that there is 3pc shim kit for $40 floating out there which seems a bit steep.

AboveTheLogic

Popped one of the heads off. Turns out someone has already bored this block .030 over and installed forged flat top pistons. Nice. Now I know I have a 355.

anesthes

Forged, flat top, 6.10cc valve reliefs. (adds 6.10cc to combustion chamber).

What heads are you running?

-- Joe

AboveTheLogic

Blue Print H8002K 64cc heads with 195cc intake:
http://www.blueprintengines.com/inde...cylinder-heads

anesthes

So around 9.85:1 compression ratio, depending on deck height and head gasket used.

I'd run a 224/230 (@ .050") cam. Would be a mean little street motor.

-- Joe

AboveTheLogic

Here's the cam I went with:
http://www.compcams.com/v002/Pages/396/XR276HR-10.aspx

Blue Print recommended the XR282HR but I went one step down, giving up a bit of top end HP for a lot more torque. I'm confident it'll deliver well over 400 ft lbs, hoping to exceed the 400hp mark too.

anesthes

That is the exact cam (the one you linked to) that I would have went with.

Will be a fun driver!

Double check your water pump to timing cover clearance. You may need to kiss the bolts on the back of the water pump with a grinder. If they put pressure on the timing cover it will preload the cam.


-- Joe

AboveTheLogic

Good to know, thanks

AboveTheLogic

Progress has been slower than planned but its okay. I've been figuring things out as I go. The cloyes timing cover didn't clear the larger harmonic balancer or the water pump. Ended up getting a smaller balancer and picking up some spacers for the water pump and main pulley. Pain in the butt.





Ended up picking up a new clutch and pressure plate kit rather than dealing with the pressure plate that came with the trans. The fact that a replacement clutch disk is $280 and the entire kit is about $330 made that decision a little easier.



Still not sure what I'm going to do for a crossmember. I might need to find a local fabricator to help me out when it comes to it.

cagotzmann

This is the Cross Member from Bowtie. Everthing fit for my 78 except the height of the plate ( shimmed the transmount ) base of the plate was to long. Cut the end off and welding under the plate. Also you will need to make adjustments to the parking brake wheel, the braket is to far forward so the parking brake cable will not be tight enough. I used a 3.5" dia wheel to make up the slack.

Now you are using a T56 vs my T56 magnum. I believe the tail housing is different so you may not have similar problems, except for the parking brake issue.


You can see this in my install notes.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html

AboveTheLogic

That's interesting.

I still don't know what the answer is for me. My C3 is an original 4-speed and has the non-removable crossmember. I need to make a friend who knows how to use a welder better than I do...

AboveTheLogic

The engine with its fresh top end along with the T56 behind it are finally in the car:


More pictures.

Trans under the car:


The trans mount is really right above the factory crossmember. If the crossmember was removable, fabbing something to work wouldn't be too bad.


Shifter position. There is green masking tape covering the hole for the shifter. It'll be moved over to the right a bit but should be fine. I intend to build a custom center console anyhow.

Metalhead140

You can easily put an offset in the lever to put it in original location through the console if you prefer. I have a Tremec TKO in my car that doesn't have a corvette specific shifter - like you, I had to open the hole in the floor (and sealed it with an aftermarket boot), but I cut and welded an offset and twist in the shifter so that the lever comes through the console at the same location and angle as original. I then fit a Hurst factory style lever and it looks identical to how it did with the 4 speed.

As for the mount, if the mount is directly above the crossmember, can you not just bolt the gearbox mount to the crossmember and to the gearbox, with spacers or some box section in between if needed to raise the mount?

Looking good by the way.

AboveTheLogic

I'm not really worried about the shifter placement in the console. You can see in this picture what a previous owner did:

Attachment 48359901

I'm really leaning towards just making a custom clean center console. Thinking of locking the HVAC stuff to cold / front vents and just setting up a **** for the fan speed and a button for the A/C compressor. I'll never need heat or defroster in this car.

As for the trans mount. If you look at the picture closely you might be able to tell that the top of the trans is touching the body of the car and there is not much space between the trans mount location and the crossmember. I do think that crossmember is going to have to come out.

I wonder what it would be like if I just bolted the trans directly to the crossmember with maybe some poly padding or some crap in between. Seems like a bad idea but maybe not?