LTWALTHER2

Gents;
As stated earlier, I upgraded to a 350/375 crate motor and using a current tester, I have juice to the starter/solenoid and to the alternator and key buzzer, but not to coil and distributor. By the way, besides the harness, I have replaced the coil, rotor, and solenoid. I have had the Starter and Alternator tested and they are fine.
HELP!!!
Thanks,
TED

65GGvert

I've been reading your threads and I can't decide if the engine turns over but won't start, or if it won't turn over unless you jump the solenoid. The coil gets it's voltage from the ignition resistance wire when it's running, and from the starter solenoid when the key is in start. Post back EXACTLY what happens when you turn the key to start. Are you running points?

Big2Bird

It's hard enough to diagnose this over the internet as it is.
Exactly what is the issue?

LTWALTHER2

Ok, I checked the wiring and it is correctly hooked up to the solenoid posts. In response to the previous question, when I turn the key nothing happens. I depressed the clutch, turned the key, and I had no voltage going to the coil or ballast(as stated both are new), however, I did have voltage going to solenoid and starter, and alternator and buzzer(on drivers side). I also had my charger hooked up to the battery as a back up, and I noticed the charge indicator was going down a lot as the key remained depressed. Yes I have new points/rotor on this car also.
Thanks

65GGvert

If you have 12v going to the solenoid, you should hear at least a click when you turn the key. (if you have 12v on the S connector when you rotate the key. If you don't have it on the S, you'll hear nothing). I don't know if the 68 has (had) a clutch switch or not, but if it does, you need to measure on both sides of that. I know on my 72 if the clutch is not all the way in nothing happens with the key.