Harmonic Balancer replacement
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Harmonic Balancer replacement. Pictures old and new!
I know the outer ring on my balancer has slipped and I have a balancer removal and installation tool. Do I need to remove the radiator or can it be replaced with everything in situ?
1981, A/C 4spd manual, air pump removed.
Also, would it be easier to attack from underneath or from above?
Thanks.
1981, A/C 4spd manual, air pump removed.
Also, would it be easier to attack from underneath or from above?
Thanks.
Last edited by jotto; 11-11-2015 at 07:37 AM.
#2
Instructor
I did mine from above without the rad. But I feel as long as you remove the mechanical fan and shroud, you should have enough room to to squeak by. Pre rig it by setting up the puller and the ratchet. Another thing, depending on the banacer you buy. When you go to put it on, throw it in the oven and heat it up, then pop it on while its still hot. It's going to make it a lot easier to put it back on.
#3
Le Mans Master
Did mine from the front top with radiator in.
Good advice. I heated mine to 200* IIRC. Also make sure the crank snout has a small chamfer on it and no burrs. I used a bit of sand paper to do this.
Then get it on quick. Before the balancer cools down and before it transfers it's heat to the crank snout, you'll need some oven mitts. Do it in the morning when the crank is nice and cold, that way it is at it's smallest diameter. A little lite lube doesn't hurt.
When you go to put it on, throw it in the oven and heat it up, then pop it on while its still hot. It's going to make it a lot easier to put it back on.
Then get it on quick. Before the balancer cools down and before it transfers it's heat to the crank snout, you'll need some oven mitts. Do it in the morning when the crank is nice and cold, that way it is at it's smallest diameter. A little lite lube doesn't hurt.
#4
Pro
When I first picked up my 79, I replaced the balancer by removing the mechanical fan and pulleys. I left the radiator and shroud in and did it from the top - As I recall, it was tight but manageable.
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks all, mine is an '81 so hopefully with a bit of wiggling it will work!
I bet it turns out the tools I have are too big! lol, just my luck!
I bet it turns out the tools I have are too big! lol, just my luck!
#7
Le Mans Master
One more thing, put some grease on the Outside diameter of the balancer portion that will be sealing on the seal on your timing cover.
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Only managed a quick 45 mins today.
Removed the fan ( might need a new clutch ) and slackened off the alternator, air con and power steering pump.
Put her in gear and chocked the wheels to remove the two pulleys.
Am now ready to see if the puller fits and how easy it is to use. I think I have the proform 66514.
Stephanie is helping! lol.
Removed the fan ( might need a new clutch ) and slackened off the alternator, air con and power steering pump.
Put her in gear and chocked the wheels to remove the two pulleys.
Am now ready to see if the puller fits and how easy it is to use. I think I have the proform 66514.
Stephanie is helping! lol.
Last edited by jotto; 11-09-2015 at 02:27 PM.
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Turns out my tool was a little different but watching the video was kinda easy on the eye.
So, here is the old and the new side by side. You can see my old one had slipped by around 90 degrees.
Having the correct tools made the removal and install a breeze but I just want to check the final install position of the balancer. It doesnt seem to want to go on any further and it really is trying to rotate the engine. Does this look as though its on all the way?
Old...
New...
So, here is the old and the new side by side. You can see my old one had slipped by around 90 degrees.
Having the correct tools made the removal and install a breeze but I just want to check the final install position of the balancer. It doesnt seem to want to go on any further and it really is trying to rotate the engine. Does this look as though its on all the way?
Old...
New...
Last edited by jotto; 11-11-2015 at 07:39 AM.
#10
Le Mans Master
Yep. That looks about right.
Once you get the pulleys on you'll know for sure if the belts don't align properly.
Once you get the pulleys on you'll know for sure if the belts don't align properly.
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Then it's on to timing again and resetting the carb. Hopefully this will help with the poor running I have been experiencing.
#12
Le Mans Master
One thing that can really help your down the road when setting valve lash or lifter preset is to mark your balancer with a line each 90* of rotation before you get the pulleys on.
I use white out it works good and is easy to see.
First one is your timing mark that is on there now and that is TDC for cylinders # 1 and #6.
Then 90 degrees later TDC for cylinders #8 and #5
Then another 90 * and TDC for cylinders # 4 and #7
Then last 90* and TDC for #3 and #2.
Mark the numbers right on the balancer below the line where you can see it below the tab when you are on that mark.
Now next time you need to set preload on your lifters you know which cylinders are at TDC for each 90* of rotation. You still need the one that is with both valves closed, not the one in overlap.
Once you establish TDC for #1 in the compression stroke though you have just established which cylinder with be there next based on the firing order. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Anywho I have found it useful, but I'm always fiddling with mine.
I use white out it works good and is easy to see.
First one is your timing mark that is on there now and that is TDC for cylinders # 1 and #6.
Then 90 degrees later TDC for cylinders #8 and #5
Then another 90 * and TDC for cylinders # 4 and #7
Then last 90* and TDC for #3 and #2.
Mark the numbers right on the balancer below the line where you can see it below the tab when you are on that mark.
Now next time you need to set preload on your lifters you know which cylinders are at TDC for each 90* of rotation. You still need the one that is with both valves closed, not the one in overlap.
Once you establish TDC for #1 in the compression stroke though you have just established which cylinder with be there next based on the firing order. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Anywho I have found it useful, but I'm always fiddling with mine.
Last edited by REELAV8R; 11-11-2015 at 03:47 PM.
#13
I know the outer ring on my balancer has slipped and I have a balancer removal and installation tool. Do I need to remove the radiator or can it be replaced with everything in situ?
1981, A/C 4spd manual, air pump removed.
Also, would it be easier to attack from underneath or from above?
Thanks.
1981, A/C 4spd manual, air pump removed.
Also, would it be easier to attack from underneath or from above?
Thanks.
Heated the balancer and cooled the shaft with a can of keyboard cleaning spray.
Male sure you buy a name brand made in USA balancer install tool or rent one from the parts store. I had a Made in China tool snap off inside the end of the crank and really ruined my day.
#14
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
One thing that can really help your down the road when setting valve lash or lifter preset is to mark your balancer with a line each 90* of rotation before you get the pulleys on.
I use white out it works good and is easy to see.
First one is your timing mark that is on there now and that is TDC for cylinders # 1 and #6.
Then 90 degrees later TDC for cylinders #8 and #5
Then another 90 * and TDC for cylinders # 4 and #7
Then last 90* and TDC for #3 and #2.
Mark the numbers right on the balancer below the line where you can see it below the tab when you are on that mark.
Now next time you need to set preload on your lifters you know which cylinders are at TDC for each 90* of rotation. You still need the one that is with both valves closed, not the one in overlap.
Once you establish TDC for #1 in the compression stroke though you have just established which cylinder with be there next based on the firing order. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Anywho I have found it useful, but I'm always fiddling with mine.
I use white out it works good and is easy to see.
First one is your timing mark that is on there now and that is TDC for cylinders # 1 and #6.
Then 90 degrees later TDC for cylinders #8 and #5
Then another 90 * and TDC for cylinders # 4 and #7
Then last 90* and TDC for #3 and #2.
Mark the numbers right on the balancer below the line where you can see it below the tab when you are on that mark.
Now next time you need to set preload on your lifters you know which cylinders are at TDC for each 90* of rotation. You still need the one that is with both valves closed, not the one in overlap.
Once you establish TDC for #1 in the compression stroke though you have just established which cylinder with be there next based on the firing order. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Anywho I have found it useful, but I'm always fiddling with mine.
Replaced the balancer on my 81.
Heated the balancer and cooled the shaft with a can of keyboard cleaning spray.
Male sure you buy a name brand made in USA balancer install tool or rent one from the parts store. I had a Made in China tool snap off inside the end of the crank and really ruined my day.
Heated the balancer and cooled the shaft with a can of keyboard cleaning spray.
Male sure you buy a name brand made in USA balancer install tool or rent one from the parts store. I had a Made in China tool snap off inside the end of the crank and really ruined my day.