Scottd

Gents, I have to choose between rebuilding my M21 Muncie or servicing my rear wheel bearings this winter. (I can only spread my cash so thin) The transmission is starting to slip out if 2nd gear.....the rear bearings have never seen service (at least not while Ive owned the car).

Is there a down and dirty way to check and see if my rear wheel bearings are still within serviceable limits? I DONT want to attempt this job unless its totally necessary.

I also have one of those wheel bearing packing tools that are meant for use without disassembling the spindle. Ive heard a lot of negative comments about them. If I find my bearings are still within limits, can I safely use this tool without messing anything up?

(I know its quite apparent that I have little knowledge of the rear spindle/bng assembly. Its all new to me and Im trying to study up on it now. Im also a beginner at rebuilding a transmission, but from what Im reading, that will be way less expensive than my wheel bearing. Which is crazy)

tracdogg2

You have the most important knowledge, the ability to ask questions first.
Unless you have noise or excessive play in the wheel bearings there is no way to tell their condition. The outer bearing always goes first. Using the greasing tool, all the junk in the cavity will be pushed into the outer bearing. There's just no way to lube the outer without taking it apart.
Mike

doorgunner

Rookie here: I would think the transmission would be the easier/less costly repair (then there is the question of the clutch assembly wear and universal joints on the driveshaft).

As for the trailing arm bearings, both wheels on my project car had very little "play" with the rear tires off the ground.....but I wanted to "start fresh with the car"........when I disassembled the bearings the grease was starting to turn to a waxy substance......the bearings weren't damaged so I cleaned/greased/re-installed them/NOT an easy job for a rookie, but doable.

gjohnson

Unless your hearing grinding/popping noises. I'd do the trans. The bearings will talk to you if they're bad.

Scottd

How and what do I measure? Ive tried the old 'grab at 12 and 6 and shake' and the only movement I get is the slightest shake, which I assume to be the trailing arm bushings.

I also like to 'start fresh' because the unknown scares me on an older car. Wont I still need all the special tools just to even service the bngs?

On a side note.....clutch and u joints are all fresh. Im just dreading dropping the transmission again. But I only have so much free time and I dont think I can rebuild a transmission AND do wheel bearings this winter. The transmission has a known fault but is still currently drivable. The bearings arent exhibiting any problems, but the unknown factor kills me. (I am getting a squeak when I hit the brakes, last for about 1 second, sounds like its coming from the rear. But Im assuming its a hardware issue, as my parking brake is real loose and one of my cables has torn from its sheath)

mortgageguy

You gotta fix what ain't working! Rear will make it another year if you're not getting ant funky sounds or movement.

Scottd

Thats the 2nd vote for leave it alone. I like that. Ill have the rotors off to service the parking brakes....any last suggestions as to whether or not I should even grease/service/check the bearings?

toobroketoretire

You always fix the obvious problem first. Its very possible a previous owner has already had the trailing arms rebuilt and there's 250,000 miles of service left in them. I bought an '82 with only 42,000 miles on it back in 1988 and at 50,000 miles I repacked the bearings but I also filled the hubs about 90% full with #2 grease. Those OEM bearings lasted for 275,000 miles before the tops of the outer races began failing (making a growling noise). So until your bearings begin growling I wouldn't worry about them.

learje

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ons-start.html

heres a thread of what i found when i opened up my muncie...i had the same symptoms your having. found a few gears chipped, worn, or missing teeth. gotta say it was an easy job to rebuild it. i went with torque lock sliders, and mine shifts great now w no problems. only special tool needed was a press to remove all the gears from the shaft.

ive got a copy of this video around here somewhere, id be happy to send it to you assuming i can find it. made a 1 time home rebuild simple without investing in tooling

http://www.5speeds.com/video.html

i worried about my rear bearings for a few years, finally had them professionally done last year. i only tackle one expensive job per winter. it is nice knowing they are done, but i agree w everyone, wait another year on them if the bearings feel fine, and the arms themselves appear sound

Scottd

Id be interested in that video. How much money did you have tied up in repair parts and rebuild kit?

learje

ill dig through the fat ole reciept folder tomorrow...

edk136

You'll also want to check play at the 3 and 9 o'clock position for bearing play. If there's play at 12 and 6, there could be other issues that may need to be checked.

Eric

Scottd

Everything else on the rear is new.....bushings, shims, shocks, leaf spring and the rear end had all its seals replaced and the internals inspected.

keithinspace

No question: Tackle what you KNOW is going south. Deal with the transmission.

If there's no clear/obvious road 'roar' coming from the bearings and the wheels don't have a tremendous amount of 'jiggle' when you do the 3-and-9 and 12-and-6 test, your rear bearings will survive one more driving season.

learje

spent $600 plus whatever i paid for the rear yoke, which i purchased off the forum here. also, i found the DVD....pm me ur addy and ill send it to u.

parts i got included the master overhaul kit w torque lock sliders, front nut wrench, 1 synchro hub, jug of the assembly gel for holding all the roller bearings in place during assembly, rev gears & shaft, input gear, 3rd gear, and a new pilot bushing. the input and 3rd gear sets were $170...depending on what u find u might get away under $500

hth

Scottd

PM sent. Thanks again.
Hopefully mine wont be that expensive. My yoke and reverse gears are new. Now I hope the innards are decent shape (other than the obvious syncho wear thats causing me to pop out of gear)

20mercury

Another resource for you too:

How to Rebuild and Modify High Performanc Manual Transmissions by Paul Cangialosi

Good book and good photo instructions, I do not see a lot of high performance upgrade stuff, but the section on Muncie looks to me like a great resource to rebuild to stock. Never rebuilt a Muncie before, but I believe I would give it a shot with this book. Sure the video is good too. Hope this might help. I believe this book and this website is the same guy, and thought I saw this link in his book, but not sure.