454Luvr

My new '82 has developed a problem already. I drove it to work from the seller's place this week, then home that same day (about 40 miles total), then parked it in my driveway. I didn't try running it again until two days later. I started it up, and a few seconds after putting it in Drive, the motor started chugging (like one bank not firing), then she died. If I wait five or ten seconds, this behavior is indefinitely repeatable. Start it up, put it in drive, and three or four seconds later it starts missing and dies. Doesn't seem to have anything to do with temperature. If I leave it in Park, it keeps running, but burps every so often. Each time when the motor starts missing, I smell gas at the exhaust and see the vapors. It's definitely running rich. Does this sound like a common symptom?

Also, I was reading on the Net that the ESC module has been discontinued, and I see Eckler's doesn't have it. Is there a replacement for this part? Does anyone know what's in it, or know whether it can be repaired?

toobroketoretire

There is a pair of flat multi-wire connectors right behind/below the distributor that need to be connected and there is also an 18-gauge wire behind the distributor that needs to be connected. If either of those connectors are disconnected it'll really run bad so make sure they're connected. With a good bright light look behind the distributor to find the two connectors I'm referring to to get yourself familiar with your new toy.

pltmgr

Check the first sticky- 1982MY- tons of info on Crossfire.

toobroketoretire

As the '82's came with CrossFire Injection they have a 25 micron fuel filter mounted on the inside of the frame right under the passenger's feet. Being only 25 microns that filter plugs easily so it must be changed every 25,000 miles or less. I would change that filter right away so you can eliminate it as being a possible cause of the problem.

454Luvr

Thanks, I'll replace it, but I'm sure it's not causing this problem. When the car is in Drive and the motor starts to "chug," pushing the throttle down and raising RPM causes the miss to clear up. As soon as the throttle is released and RPM falls, the miss returns and the motor dies (unless it's shifted into Park). You could be right, but this doesn't feel like a clogged filter to me.

I'll read through the sticky, maybe something there will help. I guess I should also borrow a code reader from someone. Is anything more required for a full ignition tuneup than rotor, cap, plugs and wires? The maintenance history on this car is unknown.

terry82

you may have a fuel pump problem .check pressure.you can check your code with out a code reader.it is obd 1 .http://www.neilkline.com/Tech%20Tips/obdcodes.htm

toobroketoretire

I just wanted you to know that filter is there because none of the previous C3's had one. Chugging sounds like a retarded timing issue. The '82's have an odd timing tab as it shows degrees in both the advanced and retarded position so its possible it got timed using the retarded side of the timing tab; making it 6 degrees retarded instead of 6 degrees advanced for a total of 12 degrees behind where it should be..

454Luvr

You just saved me $60.

454Luvr

I understand, and I appreciate you mentioning the filter. There are numerous differences between this car and my last C3 ('73 454). Not that I remember everything I knew in the '70s...

This car was fine for the first 40 miles or so after I bought it. If it's a basic timing issue, it would have to mean the distributor is slipping. The thing is, it doesn't do this immediately when I start it. If I put it in Drive quickly after starting, it's OK for four or five seconds. I can move it back and forth a few feet in the driveway, and it feels and sounds normal. Then it goes rich and starts chugging.

At this point, I do have a plan in mind. I'll read the code(s), inspect the injectors, re-inspect hoses and fittings, exercise and lube all the connectors in the engine compartment, tighten manifold/injector bolts, replace the filter you described, then go through the ignition with new rotor, cap, plugs and wires. If it's still broken, maybe the code will point me in the right direction. If not, I'll replace all the vacuum and other hoses, just in case there's a leak I can't see. After doing all that, I'll be in a position to address more serious possibilities knowing I've eliminated the little things.

This wasn't one of the problems I anticipated when I bought the car, so I'm in something of a bind in terms of doing all this work. I've got tools, but my garage is too full to pull in a car. It's supposed to rain nearly every day I'm off work this week, so that's another setback. If worse comes to worse, I might have to just cover the car for the winter. Not my first choice, but I really dislike letting other people work on my vehicles. In fact, it's usually other people's work that I end of fixing when I get into these older cars.

Thanks to everyone for the help and advice. I'll post questions and results as I work through it.

toobroketoretire

I have an idea. The CrossFire Injection engines have about 3-4 wires that are all grounded to the lid bolt right in front of the EGR valve. If those wires aren't well grounded the injectors will DUMP a lot of fuel and make the engine chug like crazy. Check that out just to make sure that bolt is good and snug.

Also make sure the 4-terminal connector behind the distributor is plugged together. A couple of years ago I was helping a guy in Germany and took a picture of my connector unplugged so he could see what the ends looked like. I forgot to plug the connector back together and my engine would start and then start chugging then die much like you're describing.

So check these 2 things:

1. The 3-4 wires that are grounded to the lid bolt right in front of the EGR valve.

2. The 4-terminal connector behind the distributor is firmly connected (the connector will be resting on the top of the bell housing).

terry82

pull a plug and see if it is fouled .If it is I would change the coolant sensor in the front by the water pump.

toobroketoretire

Also check the 7mm hose going to the MAP sensor from the rear of the left throttle body. When that cheap OEM hose splits the MAP sensor will tell the ECM to DUMP fuel like a full throttle would so its imperative that hose is in good condition. So there are 3 things to check:

1. The 3-4 wires that ground to the lid bolt in front of the EGR valve.

2. The 4-terminal connector behind the HEI (will be lying on the top of the bell housing).

3. The 7mm MAP sensor hose that plugs on to the rear of the left throttle body.

454Luvr

Got it! I've also ordered the factory service and assembly manuals.

Many thanks to everyone for all the excellent advice and suggestions!

toobroketoretire

Keep us posted.............................

454Luvr

THIS!!!

Can you believe it, the very first thing I checked! I'll replace all the vacuum hoses over the next few days. You guys are great!

toobroketoretire

It's just the MAP hose and the PCV valve hose that gets really hard and splits. Are you saying your MAP hose was split where it plugs onto the rear of the throttle body? Use a 1/4" fuel hose to replace that OEM hose because the fuel hose has internal braids and is compatible with gasoline vapors.

Keep us posted................

454Luvr

Yes, it's split, and I think it wasn't even attached to the throttle body. I tugged on it from the MAP sensor end before I removed the air filter, and there was no resistance whatsoever. I could tell it was loose before I saw it. Anyway, I put it back on the throttle body, and the motor runs smoothly. Great fix, and a big relief to know this wasn't something more serious. I have no idea how I made it home the day I bought the car.

I'll replace the PCV hose like you suggested, but I won't be happy until all the vacuum hoses are new. Same for belts and filters. Everything I can see under the hood looks original, and that's a little scary. What I consider "routine maintenance" will have to include a lot more items. I'll probably replace the brake booster and master cylinder, and probably the entire power steering system (the control valve and assist cylinder both appear to be leaking). Then there are the U-joints, rear wheel bearings, rear bushings and front suspension parts. I won't have time to do it all myself, so I'll have to pay for some of the work.

The only thing that bothers me about all this is the proliferation of Chinese parts on the market. I've had a lot of difficulty recently with the poor quality of replacement parts for our other vehicles, even though I make a big effort not to buy Chinese. Things just aren't what they used to be. I really hope that won't affect the work this car needs.

Thanks for your help, let me know if you ever get into the Austin area.

Jack

toobroketoretire

Use 1/4" fuel hose and squirt oil into it before forcing it onto the MAP sensor's 7mm (.284") nipple. The 1/4" hose will be about .034" smaller in it's inside diameter so the oil will help it slip on easier. With the MAP sensor now working normally again your fuel mixture will be a LOT leaner at idle and your engine won't die on you any more.

As far as the hoses go the vacuum hoses will last about 900 years so they don't need to be replaced. Its just the hoses that are attached to real hot engine parts that will fail (like the EGR valve and the PCV valve).

htown81vette

I've checked codes on my 81 using this method it works very swell, and the best part is paper clips are alot cheaper than a mechanic.

toobroketoretire

I bought a code reader many years ago just to get the book that shows all the codes and what they mean. I keep it in my storage compartment so I'll always have it handy in case I run into trouble away from home.