greggome

Anyone tackle taking out a c3 rear differential. Was wondering how difficult a job it is taking it out and putting it back once rebuilt? I'll be on my back under the car working on it without the luxury of a shop lift which always makes things more challenging.

mortgageguy

I just did it in July. I didn't have a lift either.it weighs 105lbs. You really need help when you drop it and install. Gotta work the cross member out past the exhaust system. Replace the snubber while you're in there. I had never done it before, so it's doable.

hugh9222

I did my 68 BB this past year. I had a transmission jack and my exhausts were not stock so I cut them and pulled them out of the way. For me the cleaning etc was far more time consuming. I also rebuilt my trailing arms after buying the required tools. A friend rebuilt my differential, I'm not that much of a mechanic. The big thing for me was the money I saved, I have plenty of time. Hugh

greggome

Thought about doing my trailing arms too while the diff was out wasn't sure if they too were difficult to remove. But its starting to look pretty costly. The good news is I have side exhaust so I dont have to wrestle with that problem.

dshawster

I've pulled mine 2-3 times recently, wasn't too hard to do by myself. I had a floor jack to lower the diff down once all the bolts were off. I didn't use a lift and have side exhaust so I didn't have to fight that. Taking the spare holder out is a must. I used a 2 jaw puller to pop the cross member off where its mounted.

greggome

how does the jaw puller attach on the crossmember? I'm having a hard time picturing it.

mortgageguy

I used a $10 hf 36 inch crowbar to pop the crossmember loose. Mine really came loose easily.

Alan 71

Hi,
I agree that a pretty lengthy pry bar may be required to pop the 2 bushings loose.
Be ready for it…..because when it comes loose it gets real heavy real quickly.
Regards,
Alan

mortgageguy

If you don't completely remove the bolts in the crossmember, it' will keep it from coming down on you suddenly.

dshawster

I threaded the bolt in a few turns to prevent the crossmember from falling on me and then used a socket on the bolt to center the puller on (I put a nut inside to make sure the socket was seated against the bolt and not the crossmember). Then put the 2 jaws on the top side of the crossmember and crank down until it pops loose, it might help to tap the end of the bolt on the puller once you have a good amount of tension to help it pop. Like the others said after I took it out the second time a long pry bar did the job for me. I think the puller method works really well, you don't have to exert too much physical effort!

Rally68

I made a cradle from 3 pieces of scrap wood, but a single piece of 2x6 bolted to your trolley jack and a ratchet strap would work just as well





Big 2-jaw puller bearing on the crossmember bushing bolt will get the job done. Loosen but do not remove the bolts as has been mentioned above. Be prepared--it will let go all at once with a really loud BANG

1974ta

When using the 2 jaw puller I replaced the original bolts with some aftermarket cheapies and drilled a hole in the middle to keep the puller from walking. When reinstalling use original bolts as I am pretty sure they were grade 5. When it pops you will have no doubt. It is a loud pop! I used a transmission jack from harbor freight. Comes in quite handy when doing the trailing arms too.

Bill

454Luvr

I replaced the diff in my '64 back in the late '70s with no special tools. I was really poor back then, did the job in the parking lot of my apartment building without even a floor jack or creeper. To tell the truth, it's been so long, I don't remember exactly how I did it. Must have put the car on jackstands, then dropped the diff using a scissors jack. I know I didn't have anything else to work with. The new diff came from Chevy brand new through a friend who worked at the parts counter. Think it cost me all of $550. Anyway, if I can do it, you can too.

CV62Air

I did the whole shebang, new trailing arms and rebuilt my diff, replaced the crossmember bushings, made a frame repair, etc. I had the benefit of a lift, several stands and a transmission jack. That diff is heavy! be careful.

do a search, some good writeups here and on another forum, too. Also, look up youtube videos. Gary Vosberg of Vtech has a few good ones. I got a nice set of offset trailing arms from him, too.

Good luck

mortgageguy

I agree, the Gary Vosberg videos are the best.

greggome

Read in an earlier forum article ( and also saw this idea online) that cutting a few small holes in the rear storage area will allow access to the bolts that hold the Diff in place eliminating the hassle and time of removing the whole crossmember assembly. patch up the holes when done and you good to go, so they say. anyone tried this to remove their Differential? sounds appealing since i'll be replacing my carpet too in the near future.

CV62Air

Yeah, I guess that would probably work! Just have to find the right spot. Might end up with a pretty big hole, LOL. Be sure to support the diff, obviously.

Personally, I didn't have much trouble getting my crossmember to come loose. Loosened the bolts half way and used a big prybar. The jaw-puller method looks easier to me, though, than cutting holes in the body.

I replaced the bushings, and bead-blasted and repainted the crossmember while it was out, too.

Have fun!

greggome

Do you need special tools or a press to get cross member bushing out and new ones installed?

Haggisbash

I made a fitting to bolt to my garage jack and to the differential, this made it easier to remove and refit the diff.



This adaptor bolted to the jack and the diff made it easier for me to remove and refit the diff by myself

mortgageguy

Every single piece of rubber on mine were shot, except my cross member bushings. it's the only thing I didn't replace. I'm glad, because it looks like it would be a bear to get out.