Starter Solenoid Replacement
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Starter Solenoid Replacement
Forgive me please gents if I asked this one before, as I am getting old:
Has anyone replaced their stock starter solenoid with the stock starter installed? I have an automatic and stock exhaust manifolds, but with 2.5" pipes.
Many thanks.
Steve
Has anyone replaced their stock starter solenoid with the stock starter installed? I have an automatic and stock exhaust manifolds, but with 2.5" pipes.
Many thanks.
Steve
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2009
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It can be done but most folks remove the started to do it. The problem with trying to replace it while the starter is mounted is the inside solenoid mount bolt would be out of sight. But yes, it can be done.
#5
Melting Slicks
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks guys.
Yes, those new lightweight starters are just incredible compared to the stock starters that came from the factory at the time. Just can't bring myself to "soil" the car, as so much of it is still original.
Steve
Yes, those new lightweight starters are just incredible compared to the stock starters that came from the factory at the time. Just can't bring myself to "soil" the car, as so much of it is still original.
Steve
#10
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You could do a "poor man's rebuild".
Remove the end cap by removing the screw through the armature lug (remove copper spacer if equipped). Remove positive battery cable. Remove the two small wires from solenoid. Remove the two small screws holding cover to solenoid. Slip cover forward. Remove the jam nut that holds the terminal in place. Now...if you look at that terminal on the "inside" you'll see it's square and will be worn down on one side. Flip it around until the good part is where the worn part was and will make contact with the washer inside the solenoid. Also flip the washer around so you have a good clean surface. Put it all back together and it will most likely work as new for a long time.
It's cheap and dirty...but it works.
JIM
Remove the end cap by removing the screw through the armature lug (remove copper spacer if equipped). Remove positive battery cable. Remove the two small wires from solenoid. Remove the two small screws holding cover to solenoid. Slip cover forward. Remove the jam nut that holds the terminal in place. Now...if you look at that terminal on the "inside" you'll see it's square and will be worn down on one side. Flip it around until the good part is where the worn part was and will make contact with the washer inside the solenoid. Also flip the washer around so you have a good clean surface. Put it all back together and it will most likely work as new for a long time.
It's cheap and dirty...but it works.
JIM
#11
Team Owner
It would be best to just drop the starter/solenoid as a set and swap out the solenoid. If the starter is original and has not been rebuilt, I HIGHLY recommend that you at least examine the motor brushes (and probably replace them) before reinstalling.
#12
Melting Slicks
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#13
Melting Slicks
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Yeah, I just had a momentary brain fart. When I wired my electric fuel pump several years ago I tied a jumper to the S terminal so it would pump when it was cranking but then it wouldn't quit cranking. Oops. I put the jumper onto the R terminal and all was well.................
#14
Burning Brakes
Steve,
I work out with 2-20# Dumbbells twice a week to keep my arms in shape just to handle this chore.
Label the wires coming off the starter (especially the R & S) so they go back on correctly. Mine got reversed once and resulted in hot starting problems.
Fran
I work out with 2-20# Dumbbells twice a week to keep my arms in shape just to handle this chore.
Label the wires coming off the starter (especially the R & S) so they go back on correctly. Mine got reversed once and resulted in hot starting problems.
Fran
#15
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You could do a "poor man's rebuild".
Remove the end cap by removing the screw through the armature lug (remove copper spacer if equipped). Remove positive battery cable. Remove the two small wires from solenoid. Remove the two small screws holding cover to solenoid. Slip cover forward. Remove the jam nut that holds the terminal in place. Now...if you look at that terminal on the "inside" you'll see it's square and will be worn down on one side. Flip it around until the good part is where the worn part was and will make contact with the washer inside the solenoid. Also flip the washer around so you have a good clean surface. Put it all back together and it will most likely work as new for a long time.
It's cheap and dirty...but it works.
JIM
Remove the end cap by removing the screw through the armature lug (remove copper spacer if equipped). Remove positive battery cable. Remove the two small wires from solenoid. Remove the two small screws holding cover to solenoid. Slip cover forward. Remove the jam nut that holds the terminal in place. Now...if you look at that terminal on the "inside" you'll see it's square and will be worn down on one side. Flip it around until the good part is where the worn part was and will make contact with the washer inside the solenoid. Also flip the washer around so you have a good clean surface. Put it all back together and it will most likely work as new for a long time.
It's cheap and dirty...but it works.
JIM
I've rebuilt quite a few starters over the years, and IIRC I've never had to replace the solenoid. They're pretty durable pieces, and just cleaning up the terminals and disc always worked out well for me.
#16
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Interestingly...years ago I tore apart some brand new "rebuilt" solenoids and found that's all they had done to "rebuild" them. And you know what? Probably last just as long as the first one did actually!
These days it's a lot easier to swap the whole thing, but I still like whipping out the ohm meter to see what's wrong with stuff...like alternator diodes etc etc.
JIM
Last edited by 427Hotrod; 11-29-2015 at 09:00 PM.
#17
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Jim,
I like you.
I used a ring tab I found in a gutter once to replace a 30 amp motorcycle fuse i had no replacement for, in order to get home. Necessity is........well, you know.
Thanks for the info.
Steve
I like you.
I used a ring tab I found in a gutter once to replace a 30 amp motorcycle fuse i had no replacement for, in order to get home. Necessity is........well, you know.
Thanks for the info.
Steve
#18
Team Owner
90-95% of the time that folks replace their starters, the starter solenoid is the only thing that's gone bad. Solenoids have a finite life (many years); starters are almost bullet proof...except for the brushes, which are easy to replace.
I bet the rebuild facilities just LOVE to get all those 'perfectly good' starter motors back (along with the defective solenoid) when owners just replace them both as a set!
I bet the rebuild facilities just LOVE to get all those 'perfectly good' starter motors back (along with the defective solenoid) when owners just replace them both as a set!
#19
Burning Brakes