cdw

hi all. i have this project for this spring (too cold in the garage now)on this linear actuator is to be wired up. i would like to wire this power window switch to run the linear actuator. i think if i try to wire it up, i'll ruin it. i'm usually pretty good on wiring things up on my hot rods because my electronic friends would just draw it on paper and i would follow their directions. now that i'm retired i don't see them much anymore.when i first got this actuator i put the red wire on the battery + and the black on the - and nothing happened. my friend then put the red on the - and the black on the + and it extended and when we reversed it it contracted. now i am thinking if it's wired to the power window switch it will work like the power window, up one way and down the other. am i on the right track and do i see a relay in the future? thanks.

7T1vette

You can do it the way you described....or you could wire up any switch if you also use a relay to handle the current going to the actuator. Your choice would be whether you want the power going through the switch...or not.

gmachinz

Are you using stock type motors which are normally grounded? Or are you using later model retrofit motors with reversing polarity? At least with the 2nd gen fbody guys the reversing polarity replacement motors require a modified (ie not stock OEM) window harness. I got into this issue for a few local builds when I put together an auto down windw harness for some TA's.

cdw

thanks very much for the reply. i'm not sure how to wire the switch.hot to which pin on the switch and going to the actuator.this is a actuator i got from e-bay a while back.i had planed on getting another one like it for the other headlight.i think but i'm not sure that it is grounded when mounted. as i try to be a detective on this 71 and try to figure out what bubba did i think po had a problem with the vacuum system for the headlights so he just made several cuts to the hoses. its also has a cam that has about 9 inches of vacuum at idle.this actuator has 4 inches of travel. i have seen several headlight systems done this way so i think i will give it a shot. looks like a rely would be a wise move..

cdw

thanks for the reply. i'm using the actuator to to open and close the headlights. it has a 4 inch stroke and i have seen several done this way. i'm just not sure what wires go to each pin on the switch and to the actuator. actuator has a black and red. switch has 3 pins with one of them longer than the other two. i bought this switch to replace one of my original window switches and did not like it so i rebuilt my original one.if i can figure out the wire job i'll try it out on the work bench before i make the brackets for the headlight assembly. bubba did a good job on the vacuum hoses so i'm gonna try this project.

'75

That power window switch won't work for that circuit. You need a switch that can reverse polarity. Normally I do that with a double pole double throw switch. It will have 6 terminals on it, normally open in the center position, momentary up or down. Your black wire would go to the center terminal on one side, the red to the center terminal on the other side. Power to say the top terminal on one side, ground to the other top terminal. Jumper wires diagonally from the top left to the bottom right, jumper diagonally from the top right to bottom left terminals. This way when you hold the switch up, you will have power and ground to extend the actuator, hold it down it will retract the actuator. confusing I know, I could draw a picture if it helps.

wendellp601

The window switch, being momentary, will have to be held while the actuator travels.
I would consider a different switch, like a DPDT toggle switch that you could fit into the space where your original override switch is. Another option would be relays, or a combination of relays with a toggle switch for override.

I did the Miata / Probe actuator mod and used a 1984 headlight switch to handle the up / down commands. I added a toggle override switch to lift the lights for servicing.

gmachinz

They aren't stainless but I wonder if you use an 81-up truck type dual window switch with that actuator? The switch is normally grounded @ rest. The connector is like the one in my attached pic:

Richard454

That switch will work fine...just need a couple relays...and running a switch that will reverse polarity -is not a good idea- due to the current draw- size AND length of the wires required....


And yes- it will operate just like a power window...and you could add a one touch module that would make the actuator travel till it mechanically stops...or some limit switches...






or you could use a simple harness I made up - not requiring any wires run to the dash or change headlight switches



Harness- plugs right in between the headlights



Or you could just put in the Miata/Probe motors- it's a heck of a lot easier!!! Turn on the lights- no waiting and when you turn them off- they go down!!!

Richard454

The current draw of the actuator combined w/ the length of the wires- that 81 or later power window switch will work a few times before it burns up...

gmachinz

What is the current draw of those actuators? It can't be more than a GM window motor-the older style motors draw much more current than the newer reverse polarity type. GM designed reverse polarity window circuits in millions of 70's-90's vehicles so its a good design but can obviously be enhanced with relays and auto down modules. Is there any reason why you aren't opting to just source OE GM parts for your corvette? I'd think you'll have an easier time maintaining the window setup if you stayed away from aftermarket designs. Just curious.

gmachinz

Ok, now let's not get carried away lol. I don't think I've heard/seen a 67-81 Camaro window wiring burn up because of this design.

cdw

thank you very much for the reply.to be honest as i look at the bubba job i became very intimidated at what i saw under the front end and along the fender well.hoses cut and things missing. when i would finish a project and before i turned the lights out in the garage i would spend a little time under the nose moving the lights up and down by hand and looking everything over. i really think i can get the actuator system to work. i could be wrong as i have been before but i'm going to try it.i'll probably make another trip to the school of hard knocks,but look at the fun i'll have(lol).when it comes to info.you guys ROCK.the drawings are the best and they help me more than anything. i'll keep you posted when i thaw out here. by the way this engine makes 9 inches of vacuum at idle. not sure if vacuum stuff would operate very well.

cdw

thanks for the reply. a picture would help very much. thats what my electronic friends would for me and it worked out very well.looks like i have my work cut out for me this spring.

Richard454

OK- let me be a little more specific- the contacts on the switch will arc- the arc will create contact erosion...the switch will cease to operate...

Often refereed to as "burntup" or "Itdontworknomore"




I'm going to guess 10-12A at stall

Well- there's very few OE GM parts for these cars anymore- most are just licensed under GM- and made in China. Just do a search on replacement power window switch problems... actually put together a drawing-w/ permission from Wilcox on how to solve PW switches from-pardon my term-burning up.

I'm actually using Jaguar power window switches with Bosch relays and a Spal motor.

Let's see...BMW engine....Geo alternator... Mercedes Benz throttle linkage....Ford headlight motors....Subaru oil pressure P/U...Dodge serpentine pulley...Cadillac Escalade Cupholder....Mitsubishi Defroster Vents...Volvo sliding console...and a host of aftermarket parts.

cdw

thanks for the reply.this actuator has a built in clutch to prevent over extension and over compression. holding the switch would not be a problem but i am considering the dpdt toggle also.looks like i'll have some options.

cdw

thanks for the reply. i will print the pic.

cdw

thanks for the reply.the pic really look great.i'll print them.you said that my switch would work fine but i'm not sure what wires would run to the 3 pins on it.

cdw

i know the drill richard. that switch in my original pic looks like a china one to me.after looking at it i rebuilt my original and put the china one in the parts box.by the time i'm done with this car i'll call it an international c-3.

'75

Here's a pic for wiring a dpdt toggle switch if you decide to go that route.