Tampa Jerry

Do a search over on the C-2 section of this forum and look for a technical paper authored by John Z. It will tell you everything you need to know about an overheating engine. Rather then guessing and changing out parts, follow the text. This is not new ground. Good luck. Jerry

blue by you

is the belt tight and turning the pump like it should

fishslayer143

Correct... They came with vacuum shut-off OEM... it never caused overheating.. I ve had a manual shut-off for years, BIG CAM.. not enough vacuum to close OEM valve.. has never run hot even in 110* heat with A/C on in traffic.

bschuus

Is the radiator cap new? Is more important than you think. If its not holding pressure it can run hot

Rally68

Sorry if I missed this--I did try to read the thread carefully--but you are verifying your block temp with a good quality laser thermometer, correct? My temp gauge is accurate up to about 160 deg, then reads progressively too high--210 deg on the gauge is 185 deg at the t-stat housing, 230 on the gauge (the hash mark between 210 and 250) is 200 at the t-stat.

Just a thought.

C3 4ME

My Corvette had an air pocket in the cooling system once after refiling from a repair. The temp gauge shot straight up way faster than normal. What was suggested was to jack the right front of the car up when filling the coolant from empty, so the radiator cap is the highest point in the cooling system, to prevent an air bubble.

centuryoldracer

Pull the heater hose off the intake manifold, then fill the radiator until coolant starts to come out of the hose barb on the manifold to get all the air out. Then put the hose back on.

slickfx3

missing front spoiler will boil your coolant, with marginal e-fans

don't ask