Mark Gerardy

Last September I became a proud Corvette owner with a '72 Stingray.

Want to get an estimate about what my quarter-mile ET times would be with either a crate ZZ4, ZZ5 or ZZ383 engine?

I am running a new 700R automatic transmission with a 3.36 rear differential. I considered going to 3.55s, but my mechanic talked me out of it.

Most of the time, I want my Vette streetable - but I want to have wickedly-strong holeshot acceleration and 50-to-80 mph passing power when I want performance.

Want to get a conservative-estimate of qtr mile ET times - if I stayed with my 3.36 + new Raptor 700R four-speed automatic, what would be my quarter mile times under crate engine scenario ZZ4/ZZ5 or ZZ383?

I am considering a ZZ454 or ZZ502, but I am concerned about handling with the extra weight from a big block. Ready to sink about $8k - $12K P & L - but not $20K.

tektrans

Mid 12's.....with this one.
http://www.nyesautomotive.net/383_SBC_500HP.html

MotorHead

Talk to my friend Mike at Active Engines, he will steer you in the right direction as far as your goal are concerned.
http://www.activeengines.com/raceengines.shtml

toobroketoretire

For C3's running TH700R4's the best rear end ratio of all is 3.73's as they'll give you the best quarter mile speeds and a 2050 rpm cruising speed in 4th gear. With the lower 3.73's you can run the quarter mile using all of the first three gears.

Kacyc3

aren't those aluminum headed? Ive always heard an BBC with alum. heads weighs as much as cast iron head SBC.. so wouldnt weight be the same?

tektrans

Hmmmm I'm pretty sure that refers to blocks not heads

htown81vette

Reasonable expectation: 12's

Could get 10's though if you know all the drag racing tricks. I can't tell what they are my drag racing buddies would burn me at the cross.

htown81vette

I'm glad you listened to him he's right. With that low first gear of the 700R4 and 3.36 is already low. Combine that with a torque monster of a 383 , upgrading to a 3.55 you might not go faster but you sure would buy new tires faster.

Big Block Dave

I'd be willing to be that the zz383 feasibly could crack the 11's with traction and good gearing, but I would expect low-mid 12's. The other 2 engines would likely put the car into the 13's.

cagotzmann

Depending on then altitude it may vary to others, but I have a stock ZZ383 from GM with a air-gap 7516, holley 83770 in my 78. Weight = 3660lbs TH350 3.08 rear. Runs 13.85 @ 99.8 MPH @ 2200 ft altitude. Changed to a T56 6-speed: Runs 14 @ 103.8 MPH. Now my 2010 GS Stock 6 speed auto Run's 12.95 @ 112 MPH weight 3570LBS. I don't think you will get in the 12's unless you get a modified 383 or lighten the car down to 3200 LBS.

Now on a simulator of the car changing rear gear ratio's the best drop was only .45 sec ET change from a 3.08
I believe Lower rear gears mainly help in the launch but after that it doesn't matter at the HP rating of Stock ZZ or 383 motors. Your butt sensor (feel) is what most use to evaluate the effect. I have yet not seen a lot to real track data to support the drastic effect of rear changes with these motors. Their are many running 12's, 11's with 3.73 and 383's but they are lightened and not stock builds.

bluedawg

There was a post a while back and I believe that it was on chevelles.com, but the bbc with aluminum heads and intake were real close to the weight of a sbc with cast iron heads and intake. Plus stingrays came with a big block at one time, I'd think that they sell coil springs specific for big block vettes. I run 3.7 gears with my 700r4 and love it.

Op, Congratulations on your new mistress. Check Out Mark Jones @ vortecproperformance.com best bang for the buck as far as Big block chevy's go and another place to check out is cnc-motorsports they have a wide aray of small and big blocks. I've never dealt with Mark, but if you research him you wont find a bad thing one about him, I have dealt with cnc-motorsports and they are Good dudes and good to do business with. When I built My 400" shp, I wish I'd thought more on it and built a big block instead just because it's easy to hit higher numbers with a bbc. I have a 454" on an engine stand in the garage and that will be the next engine that I build.

Look at the 4th engine, 660 horse and $7795 plus shipping. That should get you into high 10's if the rest of your drive train can withstand it. http://www.vortecproperformance.com/...binations.html

htown81vette

I think you oughta go with this LS3:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-Pe...ZWrpar&vxp=mtr

Comes with a warranty I believe ..

I believe that can be done within your budget constraints...I'm assuming some of that money will be used to bullet proof the 700R4...

427Hotrod

This will give you a good idea of what all the crate motors can do.

JIM

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...-engine-tests/

AboveTheLogic

Aww come on you can tell me, I'll be your best friend...

htown81vette

gotta get me all liquored up first, then I might talk

AboveTheLogic

How about I PM you a picture of the Houston Texans cheerleaders holding a bottle of Balcones Single Malt Whiskey and a plate of smoked brisket while sitting on top of a pile of guns that were just imported from a liberal state that confiscated them and donated them to the good people of Houston?

96 lt-4

How about you pm me that pic instead!

diehrd

With the motors you are looking at the only way to even hope for a 10 anything is with NOS

A zz383 450/450 would on a good day with a good launch be around 12.4

Here use this calculator it is pretty cool and is good tool to help form ideas for power levels you might need to get 1/4 mile times you are hoping to hit .

https://robrobinette.com/et.htm

bluedawg

He could get a mark jones 496" for $7800 + shipping with 660 horse which should pull him into the high tens if the rest of the drive train could with stand the force. http://www.vortecproperformance.com/...binations.html

You check out the calculator towards your et? There are a lot of variables that could change the et but not add or take away power, such as gears, stall ect. http://www.wallaceracing.com/hpcalculatorquarter.php this one I like and I really only use the Mile per hour as it's usually constant unless you change something to make more power. They use 10% loss between crank and rear wheel, but as you know, the losses any were between 20% - 30%. What did you vette dyno at the rear wheel?

gkull

You can't make blanket statements. Your above statement is only true for a low power motor that is done in the low 5000 rpm range.

I did a lot of research with gear ratio calculators and i determined that the best ratio was 4.11 with a 700R4. 4.11 even sucks with a 700r4 because second gear I did not shift into 3rd till I was going over 90 mph and red line in 3rd was about 150 mph with my 28 inch goodyear slicks. So I was nowhere near rend line going through the traps.

My Vette was a consistent winner in bracket racing at 11.70's with my 383.

IMO 383's are was of time and money. When for the same amount of money you can use a 3.875 crank and have a @396 ci or a 415 ci using a 400 block. when I was doing 11:70's at the annual all corvette drags the around 400 ci vettes were doing 11.40's.

http://www.hotrodworks.net/hotrodmath/quarter.html