Distributor Not Fully Seating
#2
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
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Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com
Last edited by lars; 02-08-2016 at 01:35 PM.
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Cavu2u (02-08-2016)
#3
Melting Slicks
I think the problem is the oil pump shaft. You need to rotate it a little with a screwdriver. It is sometimes takes a lot of trial and error.
There is a controversial way to get the dist. to drop in by bumping the starter once the dist. gear is into the cam gear. The dist. shaft will rotate and drop down when it reaches the correct orientation. Some swear by it and others are totally against it.
There is a controversial way to get the dist. to drop in by bumping the starter once the dist. gear is into the cam gear. The dist. shaft will rotate and drop down when it reaches the correct orientation. Some swear by it and others are totally against it.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
You're not getting it correctly engaged with the oil pump drive shaft. E-mail me for my "How to Install Your Distributor" article if you need info.
Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com
Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com
Steve
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=Sayfoo;1591506945]I think the problem is the oil pump shaft. You need to rotate it a little with a screwdriver. It is sometimes takes a lot of trial and error.
There is a controversial way to get the dist. to drop in by bumping the starter once the dist. gear is into the cam gear. The dist. shaft will rotate and drop down when it reaches the correct orientation. Some swear by it and others are totally against it.[/QUOTE
I'll keep tryin Sayfoo. The engine's on a stand, so I can turn it over fairly easily.
Steve
There is a controversial way to get the dist. to drop in by bumping the starter once the dist. gear is into the cam gear. The dist. shaft will rotate and drop down when it reaches the correct orientation. Some swear by it and others are totally against it.[/QUOTE
I'll keep tryin Sayfoo. The engine's on a stand, so I can turn it over fairly easily.
Steve
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Cavu2u (02-08-2016)
#7
Le Mans Master
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If you follow Lars' technique to install and time the distributor, the engine will fire immediately. No more "twist and shout" as you rotate the dissy trying to get the engine to fire.
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Cavu2u (02-08-2016)
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doorgunner (02-08-2016)
#9
Race Director
Make sure if the No 1 cylinder is at TDC that the rotor has gone past the No 1 tower on the distributor cap. This will ensure you have some advance in it so starting is easier.
Last edited by MotorHead; 02-08-2016 at 07:05 PM.
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Cavu2u (02-08-2016)
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Right now, as the rotor sits in the picture, the Timing Mark on the Dampener is at 12 degrees BTDC. Turning that mark to TDC should turn the Distributor Rotor past it's tower (#1), per your suggestion.
Steve
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Cavu2u (02-08-2016)
#13
Melting Slicks
But, I did have to remove 1 valve cover.
I would try it first with the dist. installed, then remove the cap if necessary, then take it out if necessary. All this only takes a few minutes.
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Cavu2u (02-09-2016)
#14
I think the problem is the oil pump shaft. You need to rotate it a little with a screwdriver. It is sometimes takes a lot of trial and error.
There is a controversial way to get the dist. to drop in by bumping the starter once the dist. gear is into the cam gear. The dist. shaft will rotate and drop down when it reaches the correct orientation. Some swear by it and others are totally against it.
There is a controversial way to get the dist. to drop in by bumping the starter once the dist. gear is into the cam gear. The dist. shaft will rotate and drop down when it reaches the correct orientation. Some swear by it and others are totally against it.
Last edited by MSGT-R; 02-09-2016 at 02:27 PM.
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Cavu2u (02-09-2016)
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Sayfoo,
I have one of these levelers.
If I can move the lifting points inward from the outer engine ends, I might be able to leave it in during installation.
It's not a big deal to R&R anymore, now that I've done it. Just sort of a challenge now, to do it with the distributor in place. It's the spark plugs that will definitely be out when the engine goes in.
How a 454 can fit in there; that's beyond me. I'd love that challenge.
Steve
I have one of these levelers.
If I can move the lifting points inward from the outer engine ends, I might be able to leave it in during installation.
It's not a big deal to R&R anymore, now that I've done it. Just sort of a challenge now, to do it with the distributor in place. It's the spark plugs that will definitely be out when the engine goes in.
How a 454 can fit in there; that's beyond me. I'd love that challenge.
Steve
#17
#18
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Honestly Paul, I'm not sure. I have bought so many things, from so many vendors, that I just can't accurately recall. It might look cool, but the main thing is, IT BETTER HOLD and not slip. I've had an aftermarket hold-down clamp that did, and it had to go in the scrap bin a month later.
I can let you know after a few hundred miles.
Steve
I can let you know after a few hundred miles.
Steve
#20
Race Director
Do yourself a big favor and put some duct tape or something over the carb holes in the manifold while you work on the engine.
Dropping a nut or bolt down the intake is not a fun thing to do, nor is pulling the engine apart just after you get it dropped into place in your car.
Dropping a nut or bolt down the intake is not a fun thing to do, nor is pulling the engine apart just after you get it dropped into place in your car.