Bell housing clutch fork dust cover boot necessary?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Bell housing clutch fork dust cover boot necessary?
I have to pull tranny once again cause somethings wrong with new TO bearing. It either slipped off one of the fork ears or something. I can see some of it since my fork boot is missing but cant tell exactly whats wrong. I can see its not on backwards at least.
Its making a bad squealing sound when depressed for about and inch of travel. Fork moves around a bit too much so pretty sure something isnt right.
Just wondering if I should get a new boot or not. Seems like dust could still get in through front metal flywheel plate anyway since it has gaps in it. Then again maybe I would get longer life out of these bearings. Not sure.
Its making a bad squealing sound when depressed for about and inch of travel. Fork moves around a bit too much so pretty sure something isnt right.
Just wondering if I should get a new boot or not. Seems like dust could still get in through front metal flywheel plate anyway since it has gaps in it. Then again maybe I would get longer life out of these bearings. Not sure.
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi S,
The rubber boot is so easy to install why wouldn't you just slide one on the fork?
I know I'LL sleep better knowing you have one in place!
Regards,
Alan
The rubber boot is so easy to install why wouldn't you just slide one on the fork?
I know I'LL sleep better knowing you have one in place!
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 02-09-2016 at 11:25 AM.
#6
Race Director
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2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
2020 Corvette of the Year (performance mods)
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I wouldn't worry about it. I'd rather let the heat out. You aren't driving in flood water or muddy roads...
JIM
JIM
#7
Race Director
I have been running scatter shields for years with no dust boot. Nobody really makes one that fits. I have never had any issues not running one. If you have a stock bell housing why not though.
#8
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Hi S69,
The boot is molded with a heavy double lip that positions and secures it in place.
It's literally a 15 second job to slip it in place.
Regards,
Alan
The boot is molded with a heavy double lip that positions and secures it in place.
It's literally a 15 second job to slip it in place.
Regards,
Alan
#9
Drifting
boot
I put a little soapy water on the lips to make it go in place easier. Holding my shop light in place and maneuvering my creeper around the jack stands slowed me down, so I did not hit the 15 second mark- more like a minute, once the car was jacked up. It also allowed me to remove the PO's incorrect pin and clip on the release fork and replace with ones that will last.
#11
I put this boot on a few days ago and not as simple on my '76 as discussed above. The top of the boot, near the cable shown in the above picture has very little room to get your fingers on it and push it in to place. After fiddling with it for an hour I took a break and came back the next day. I got it on by pulling it hard toward the front of the car and down from the top and worked on getting the top of the boot lip in place and at the same time getting the front of the boot under the fork in place. I use a 1" putty knife to push the lip at the front. Then I pulled and stretched the back of the boot and the bottom part so the lip would catch. The putty knife helps and pushing in the clutch will move the fork and give you a bit of room.