72 suspension redone, ideas on lower the front or raise the rear
#1
Veteran
Thread Starter
72 suspension redone, ideas on lower the front or raise the rear
I just redid the entire suspension front and rear.
Front
Global West upper and lower control arms
Gymkhana front coil springs
Bilstein sport shocks
Addco 1 1/4" sway bar
Borgeson gear box conversion
VBP spreader bar
18 x 8.5" Foose F117 Nitrous wheels
245/45ZR18 Nitto NT555 tires 26.57" dia
Rear
VBP 420 lb composite spring
8" spring links
Bilstein sport shocks
new stock trailing arms
Global West adj strut rods
18 x 8.5" Foose F117 Nitrous wheels
255/45ZR18 Nitto NT555 tires 26.97" dia
Now my dilemma, I cut an entire coil out of the Gymkhana coil spring in front and am debating on cutting more out or go from a 8" rear spring bolt to a 7" thus raising the rear end instead of lowering the front. Ideas on what you did?
Front
Global West upper and lower control arms
Gymkhana front coil springs
Bilstein sport shocks
Addco 1 1/4" sway bar
Borgeson gear box conversion
VBP spreader bar
18 x 8.5" Foose F117 Nitrous wheels
245/45ZR18 Nitto NT555 tires 26.57" dia
Rear
VBP 420 lb composite spring
8" spring links
Bilstein sport shocks
new stock trailing arms
Global West adj strut rods
18 x 8.5" Foose F117 Nitrous wheels
255/45ZR18 Nitto NT555 tires 26.97" dia
Now my dilemma, I cut an entire coil out of the Gymkhana coil spring in front and am debating on cutting more out or go from a 8" rear spring bolt to a 7" thus raising the rear end instead of lowering the front. Ideas on what you did?
#2
Race Director
Did you give the suspension a chance to settle? You changed a lot. There is no suspension bind right?
With the 18" wheels and low profile tires IMCO you need to lower the whole car. The gap over the top of the tires creates the illusion the diameter of the tires is too small.
Sorry don't mean to sound harsh just my thoughts on your question.
With the 18" wheels and low profile tires IMCO you need to lower the whole car. The gap over the top of the tires creates the illusion the diameter of the tires is too small.
Sorry don't mean to sound harsh just my thoughts on your question.
#3
Veteran
Thread Starter
Did you give the suspension a chance to settle? You changed a lot. There is no suspension bind right?
With the 18" wheels and low profile tires IMCO you need to lower the whole car. The gap over the top of the tires creates the illusion the diameter of the tires is too small.
Sorry don't mean to sound harsh just my thoughts on your question.
With the 18" wheels and low profile tires IMCO you need to lower the whole car. The gap over the top of the tires creates the illusion the diameter of the tires is too small.
Sorry don't mean to sound harsh just my thoughts on your question.
Last edited by King Lear; 02-14-2016 at 10:27 AM.
#4
Team Owner
Hard to say what is more critical, dragging nose over driveways or even trailers to/from the track or messing up fenders with tires rubbing....
I left my car at stock height 460 ft 360 rr VBP springs, and Billy Stein Sports.......I have a stockish lower spoiler in front.....
I left my car at stock height 460 ft 360 rr VBP springs, and Billy Stein Sports.......I have a stockish lower spoiler in front.....
#5
Melting Slicks
If you cut much more...those springs will be loose in the pockets. And as mrvette sez, will be dreading any low obstruction.
My car had been lowered with cut gymkhana springs, and the 7 qt oil pan banged on speed bumps. Scary!
My car had been lowered with cut gymkhana springs, and the 7 qt oil pan banged on speed bumps. Scary!
#7
Veteran
Thread Starter
I think for now I'm just going to roll with it as it is and how they settle after a season. I'd hate to cut anymore have them settle and be too low. I'm already 2 1/2" lower in front and 2" lower in rear then stock. I already jacked it up loosened the bushings and moved it around then dropped it. It came down in front another 1/2" after doing that. I don't think the coils were seated right in the pocket.
#8
Race Director
The front coils should be seated properly on the top. There is a hole in top a arm you can see down to see if the top is seated. I use white tape on the very end to see it more clearly. Adjust that first then let it settle for a few hundred miles.
I cut mine to short some time ago and it was nothing but a pain in the azz even going over dips in the road it would hit the front air damn. What's important is to have wheels and tires that measure about 27in tall to fill the fender wells.
I cut mine to short some time ago and it was nothing but a pain in the azz even going over dips in the road it would hit the front air damn. What's important is to have wheels and tires that measure about 27in tall to fill the fender wells.
#9
Race Director
Did you let the car set on the ground before tightening the control arm bolts? If the control arm bushings are in a bind, it could cause the front end to be up in the air like that.
#10
Veteran
Thread Starter
The front coils should be seated properly on the top. There is a hole in top a arm you can see down to see if the top is seated. I use white tape on the very end to see it more clearly. Adjust that first then let it settle for a few hundred miles.
I cut mine to short some time ago and it was nothing but a pain in the azz even going over dips in the road it would hit the front air damn. What's important is to have wheels and tires that measure about 27in tall to fill the fender wells.
I cut mine to short some time ago and it was nothing but a pain in the azz even going over dips in the road it would hit the front air damn. What's important is to have wheels and tires that measure about 27in tall to fill the fender wells.
#12
Drifting
I have the same problem, what I didnt think about when I cut the springs was the length of stabilizer bar end links. Before you do anything try removing the end links and see if the front lowers anymore.
#13
Team Owner
I dorked with the VB&P one inch shorter 550# fronts for years. They were too short as delivered and i changed out various spacers to get the height i needed. It is a lot of time swapping a-arm spacers or for that mater cutting springs. I came to the conclusion to make things adjustable.
You just can't beat throwing a spanner wrench on a front coil over and changing the ride height in a couple of minutes.
To the other posters..... King lear did not state a front BS. 18 x 8.5" Foose F117 Nitrous wheels 245/45ZR18 Nitto NT555 tires 26.57" dia
But I run 4.5 and 5 inch BS front wheel and you have to run smaller diameter than 27 inches. Actually smaller as the width goes up. Because on lock to lock the tires will shine up the frame rails
You just can't beat throwing a spanner wrench on a front coil over and changing the ride height in a couple of minutes.
To the other posters..... King lear did not state a front BS. 18 x 8.5" Foose F117 Nitrous wheels 245/45ZR18 Nitto NT555 tires 26.57" dia
But I run 4.5 and 5 inch BS front wheel and you have to run smaller diameter than 27 inches. Actually smaller as the width goes up. Because on lock to lock the tires will shine up the frame rails
#14
Veteran
Thread Starter
I just went out and checked how they set. Here are the sway bar end links on the ground. looks like the bolts might be pushed back a bit but do not look like they are hitting anything or affect the height. Could be wrong though, it wouldn't be the first time. I will try tomorrow night to jack it up, loosen the control arm bolts, put her on the ground and see where I sit. Right now I am 28-1/2" dr side, 28" even pass side" in the front ground to fender with the 26.57" tires. 29" both sides in in the rear with the 26.97" tires.
driver side<br/>
pass side
Last edited by King Lear; 02-18-2016 at 12:00 AM.
#15
Veteran
Thread Starter
To the other posters..... King lear did not state a front BS. 18 x 8.5" Foose F117 Nitrous wheels 245/45ZR18 Nitto NT555 tires 26.57" dia
But I run 4.5 and 5 inch BS front wheel and you have to run smaller diameter than 27 inches. Actually smaller as the width goes up. Because on lock to lock the tires will shine up the frame rails[/QUOTE]
4.5 BS all around and they do not rub lock to lock. If I went any wider in front they would come closer to the fender then the frame as I tried the 255's in front first just to see, but they are .4in taller too. Could get away with it if I went with shorter tires.
But I run 4.5 and 5 inch BS front wheel and you have to run smaller diameter than 27 inches. Actually smaller as the width goes up. Because on lock to lock the tires will shine up the frame rails[/QUOTE]
4.5 BS all around and they do not rub lock to lock. If I went any wider in front they would come closer to the fender then the frame as I tried the 255's in front first just to see, but they are .4in taller too. Could get away with it if I went with shorter tires.
#16
Team Owner
It is so sad to see salt splash on such a beautiful Vette!
I was trying to tell people that you can't fill the wheel well with big diameter tires when you go to 4.5 BS
It takes about 230 pounds to compress a 460# spring a half inch. So with a driver in the seat the car would be nearly level. But it is odd to me that it would be a 1/2 difference
I was trying to tell people that you can't fill the wheel well with big diameter tires when you go to 4.5 BS
It takes about 230 pounds to compress a 460# spring a half inch. So with a driver in the seat the car would be nearly level. But it is odd to me that it would be a 1/2 difference
#17
Veteran
Thread Starter
It is so sad to see salt splash on such a beautiful Vette!
I was trying to tell people that you can't fill the wheel well with big diameter tires when you go to 4.5 BS
It takes about 230 pounds to compress a 460# spring a half inch. So with a driver in the seat the car would be nearly level. But it is odd to me that it would be a 1/2 difference
I was trying to tell people that you can't fill the wheel well with big diameter tires when you go to 4.5 BS
It takes about 230 pounds to compress a 460# spring a half inch. So with a driver in the seat the car would be nearly level. But it is odd to me that it would be a 1/2 difference
I have the 550# gymkhana springs in front, I took the 460's out. They had it up at about 30.5" in front so they had to go.
#18
Drifting
King
Letting it settle is a good plan, but I had the same issues and decided that I had enough cutting the stock springs then going to VBP 550lb, that didn't change things much, so bit the bullet and went with coilovers and have full adjustment in ride height and a nice smooth ride. It tell you it sucks having to take things apart to get the "right" ride height several times
Letting it settle is a good plan, but I had the same issues and decided that I had enough cutting the stock springs then going to VBP 550lb, that didn't change things much, so bit the bullet and went with coilovers and have full adjustment in ride height and a nice smooth ride. It tell you it sucks having to take things apart to get the "right" ride height several times
#19
Race Director
Near 29" in the front is a bit high, you can get away with that in the back. I would again recommend you get the top the spring in it's pocket, if it goes to far you are looking at near 1 in. higher.
Like I said find the hole in top a arm ( unless you have aftermarket ) and get the tops of the springs located properly and the bottom of the spring just sits where it sits after.
Like I said find the hole in top a arm ( unless you have aftermarket ) and get the tops of the springs located properly and the bottom of the spring just sits where it sits after.
#20
Le Mans Master
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Near 29" in the front is a bit high, you can get away with that in the back. I would again recommend you get the top the spring in it's pocket, if it goes to far you are looking at near 1 in. higher.
Like I said find the hole in top a arm ( unless you have aftermarket ) and get the tops of the springs located properly and the bottom of the spring just sits where it sits after.
Like I said find the hole in top a arm ( unless you have aftermarket ) and get the tops of the springs located properly and the bottom of the spring just sits where it sits after.