Astrovan hydroboost to MC rod length?
#1
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Astrovan hydroboost to MC rod length?
Started installing the hydroboost unit (94/59 astrovan) and I don't have the rod /spring /etc that goes between the hydroboost and the master cylinder.
I'm being told those rods where different lengths so I need to find out how long it should be as I go hunting for a replacement.
Anyone happen to know the length\diameter of one?
Thanks
M
I'm being told those rods where different lengths so I need to find out how long it should be as I go hunting for a replacement.
Anyone happen to know the length\diameter of one?
Thanks
M
#2
Team Owner
Don't know anything about Hydroboosts.... But, would think the strategy for sizing actuating pin would be the same.
For regular boosters, that pin must be the same length as the space available, when the parts are assembled. If too long, it will always be partially applied; if too short, there will be a dead spot in pedal operation.
Measure the depth of the pin recess in the hydroboost AND the recess in the master cylinder. Add these (include gasket thickness if one is used), then size the pin to the same distance +.000/-.010. That should work for you.
If others know some specifics about hydroboost pin, please chime in.
For regular boosters, that pin must be the same length as the space available, when the parts are assembled. If too long, it will always be partially applied; if too short, there will be a dead spot in pedal operation.
Measure the depth of the pin recess in the hydroboost AND the recess in the master cylinder. Add these (include gasket thickness if one is used), then size the pin to the same distance +.000/-.010. That should work for you.
If others know some specifics about hydroboost pin, please chime in.
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worship79 (02-19-2016)
#4
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OK, so I've found what appears to be a stock pin length of 3.340" for short MC pistons
7T1, yes that seems to also apply to the hydroboost units (Tallon Hyd. suggest .010-.020 gap but basically the same)
I was after a ballpark length since I hadn't pulled the Vac unit from the MC and could only get the depth from the hyd unit.
I couldn't find any mention of adjustable length ones so I ordered an over-length version and I'll machine it to fit once I get everything on the bench
Thanks all.
M
7T1, yes that seems to also apply to the hydroboost units (Tallon Hyd. suggest .010-.020 gap but basically the same)
I was after a ballpark length since I hadn't pulled the Vac unit from the MC and could only get the depth from the hyd unit.
I couldn't find any mention of adjustable length ones so I ordered an over-length version and I'll machine it to fit once I get everything on the bench
Thanks all.
M
#5
Team Owner
Same thing I did for a replacement master cylinder.
#7
Melting Slicks
How about posting some pics as you do the changeover? Would love to see how that goes! Going by your other work, I am sure it will be top-notch!
#8
Drifting
Spacer for HydroBoost conversion
A number of guys in our car club converted from vacuum to HydroBoost. Rather than modify the length of the rod, we just used a spacer between the firewall and HB.
It has been quite a few years since I switched to HB, but I used a HB from a '97 (?) Silverado. The rod was too long, so I added a custom spacer to make the length from the firewall to the center of the clevis hole the same as that length for the vacuum booster.
It REALLY helps when one of yous sons is a CNC machinist.
It has been quite a few years since I switched to HB, but I used a HB from a '97 (?) Silverado. The rod was too long, so I added a custom spacer to make the length from the firewall to the center of the clevis hole the same as that length for the vacuum booster.
It REALLY helps when one of yous sons is a CNC machinist.
#9
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Because it's not quite done and there's other threads
I'll likely put something together once it's done (soon I hope)
So far
Converting the pedal end
Installing the Tallon pushrod & spring
Checking rod for rough sizing
Reverse the mounting studs, astrovan has the same bolt spacings
Dryfitting
Adding non-functional bling
Anyway I'm ready to make up the hoses now. Just need to run some rubber ones to get the path worked out and then I'll assemble the braided ones.
Hope this helps for now. I know you were looking for options
M
I'll likely put something together once it's done (soon I hope)
So far
Converting the pedal end
Installing the Tallon pushrod & spring
Checking rod for rough sizing
Reverse the mounting studs, astrovan has the same bolt spacings
Dryfitting
Adding non-functional bling
Anyway I'm ready to make up the hoses now. Just need to run some rubber ones to get the path worked out and then I'll assemble the braided ones.
Hope this helps for now. I know you were looking for options
M
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Andy Tuttle (04-09-2016)
#10
Drifting
"Adding non-functional bling"
Because it's not quite done and there's other threads
I'll likely put something together once it's done (soon I hope)
So far
Adding non-functional bling
Anyway I'm ready to make up the hoses now. Just need to run some rubber ones to get the path worked out and then I'll assemble the braided ones.
Hope this helps for now. I know you were looking for options
M
I'll likely put something together once it's done (soon I hope)
So far
Adding non-functional bling
Anyway I'm ready to make up the hoses now. Just need to run some rubber ones to get the path worked out and then I'll assemble the braided ones.
Hope this helps for now. I know you were looking for options
M
Is that a new pressure reserve cylinder or a cover for the original?
Thanks.
#11
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#12
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Spacer would work for the one that goes to the brake pedal(???)
M
Last edited by Mooser; 04-09-2016 at 03:00 PM.
#13
Melting Slicks
Mooser - thanks for the pics! That gives me a much better perspective. Will be watching as you get the hoses done too. None of the other posts I went through (and it was a bunch of them!) had very many pictures. Lots of info, few pictures. Getting more visual in my old age I guess or I am keeping up with younger generation! Anyway, really appreciate it! Keep it up!