Cleaning Engine - 454 1970
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Cleaning Engine - 454 1970
I am about to put together an engine that has been sitting for a while without intake manifold or oil pan on a stand in my garage (18 months) . Before I do, although it might be overkill I thought it might be a good idea to wash it through, to take out any dust, dirt etc. what should I use steam cleaner, flushing oil, petrol etc. any suggestions welcome.
Paul
Paul
#2
I would not use anything water based, steam cleaner. Kerosene comes to mind followed by re-oiling the cylinders.
#3
Melting Slicks
For the outside, I use brake cleaner, with the straw. Shoots out grease and grime, dry with paper towels and air.
Last edited by mikem350; 03-22-2016 at 11:54 AM.
#4
Instructor
Just my thought
#5
Race Director
You don't want water getting into the bearings and oil passages. I like Kerosene and then lube the cylinders, don't forget to spin the oil pump before starting.
plus using Kerosene makes it easier to wait on line at the store..
plus using Kerosene makes it easier to wait on line at the store..
#6
Instructor
Ok, so are you wiping in and around the crank, rods and etc. Does that get rid of the dirt and grit? I too have a small block that has been sitting with to valve covers or intake and it has a lot of dirt and saw dust on it.
#7
Melting Slicks
I would dismantle, clean, then re-mantle. But then again I would have bagged the motor to begin with.
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croaker (03-26-2016)
#9
Drifting
I clean all mine with soap and water followed by a very liberal spraying of WD-40. Blow air through any oil passages to help get them dry. Before assembly, I use white lint-free paper towels with tranny fluid and scrub until they come back clean.
#10
Burning Brakes
This procedure works well on the block and individual parts. I suggest shop rags instead of paper towels. Also, mineral spirits (paint thinner) will clean better than AT fluid. Respray everything with WD-40 after using a solvent to clean, and wrap it up or bag it right away.
#12
Burning Brakes
Where in the world did you get that idea? According to the manufacturer:
"WD-40® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. It even removes grease, grime and more from most surfaces."
Ten million users can probably also confirm that this is indeed an oil-based lubricant.
"WD-40® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. It even removes grease, grime and more from most surfaces."
Ten million users can probably also confirm that this is indeed an oil-based lubricant.
#13
Burning Brakes
Where in the world did you get that idea? According to the manufacturer:
"WD-40® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. It even removes grease, grime and more from most surfaces."
Ten million users can probably also confirm that this is indeed an oil-based lubricant.
"WD-40® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. It even removes grease, grime and more from most surfaces."
Ten million users can probably also confirm that this is indeed an oil-based lubricant.
But not really an effective lubricant.
#14
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
thinner or diesel fuel and compressed air
Watch those fumes, pilot lights dont play well with them lol
Sawdust, youre taking that one apart completely
Watch those fumes, pilot lights dont play well with them lol
Sawdust, youre taking that one apart completely
#15
Racer
If you can see dust and dirt on the inside then you need to take it apart and clean it. All you will do is move the dirt to places you cant get to. Do it right and bag it up next time!
#16
Le Mans Master
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To get everything clean it needs to be torn down and wiped with kerosene, mineral spirits, etc. and then WD-40 and bagged. If you use a shop rag to clean it, make sure you do not leave little fuzzies stuck in places.
#17
Race Director
remember wd40 has a preservative a wax type finish when it dries. That is why it gums up locks. The preservative protects the cleaned surface. I would use CRC to clean + kero unless you are going to store it.
#18
Burning Brakes
One other thing... if you do remove the rotating assemblies, don't forget to smear a thin layer of prelube like Lubriplate on all the bearing surfaces during reassembly.
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
The engine was not neglected, it had just been standing in my garage for 18 months as I restored it (more slowly than I thought) guided by much help from the forum members.
I had sealed all the ports and cam with cloth and paper hence had kept all debris out; just as a final step before I reassemble thought I would give it a flush and wipe/brush.
I can say that the kerosene tip was spot on, and this did a really good job......now on moving on to reassembly.
Many thanks to you all.
Paul
I had sealed all the ports and cam with cloth and paper hence had kept all debris out; just as a final step before I reassemble thought I would give it a flush and wipe/brush.
I can say that the kerosene tip was spot on, and this did a really good job......now on moving on to reassembly.
Many thanks to you all.
Paul
Last edited by PBCloud; 03-26-2016 at 02:20 PM.
#20
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I'd make sure to prelube it and get oil flushed through everything before starting it.
JIM
JIM