woodlawnmill

I'm fairly sure I have crud in my original fuel tank. Has all the symptoms of fuel starvation. Not getting steady fuel flow to the carb.I would like to go ahead and install the new fuel pump and correct formed steel pump to carb line. The line now on was bubba bent and does have some crimps/dents where there should be none. Waiting for the back ordered new tank to arrive. Sending unit,new rubber fuel hoses and over fill and pick up sock as well to arrive. Would I damage the new fuel pump or should I wait on the tank and do both jobs at the same time? Car is now up on jack stands as I put in new correct transmission lines yesterday. The front wheel is off and access is great for the fuel pump swap

Thanks

mikem350

If you are not driving the car, there is no difference. I would change the fuel filter if its a Quadrajet.

AirBusPilot

I'd install it all at once, for obvious reasons.

woodlawnmill

carb rebuilt last year,filter clean

hugie82

The new fuel pump won't be damaged by a little crud and it might be your problem. You can use a clear fuel filter to see how much junk is getting pumped thru. You could be getting a blockage at the tank but that takes a lot.

crf311

I see someone's back will be hurting soon. Changing the fuel pumps on vettes' is a pain in the azz.

VancouverL71

Just went through this 2 weeks ago in my big block with headers, (read very little room) Took 3-4 hours and I have no knowledge at all in this area. My words of advice,
1. Pump is cheap, just do it
2. Need a knuckle joint for your socket wrench
3. Push rod will fall down, use a bent hacksaw blade to hold rod in place while you install new pump.
Good luck
Pete

DSS77C3

Instead of hacksaw blade, in the front of the engine adjacent to the fuel pump are two screws. Take out the top one and replace with a 1 1/2 inch screw while the push rod is up. Don't tighten too tight as it can damage the rod. ( if you have time, put silicone on the tip of the screw the day before so it hardens) Make sure you take it out and replace with original screw or you'll have a bigger problem on hand when you try to start her up.

Clonetrooper334

Van has it correct. I just did this on a '66 with a '71 454. Biggest tip is after the pump is out, check the push rod (get a finger nail under it and lift), if you move it up and there is more than .5 inch or rod protruding then you need to rotate the crank 90 degrees (I disconnected the distributor and bumped the starter). This left about 1/8" of pushrod hanging out of the block, the pump went right in, installed one bolt then rotated the pump to align the second bolt. Tighten each alternately to walk the pump to the block. Took 5 minutes after 8 hours of research...but I'm new...